Flash hider permanently attached,

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  • SpeedRacer

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    Feb 23, 2007
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    Mandeville, LA
    Yes, that is the way I understood it. The way Ritten explains the method, it requires pinning, then welding where the FH meets the barrel after being installed.

    Not at all. The way mine was done is the same way Adco does it. The important thing is that is that on the off chance (like, I've never heard of a single case) you run into a BATFE agent they cannot remove the muzzle device with any reasonable amount of force. The blind pin accomplishes that just fine.
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    Yes, that is the way I understood it. The way Ritten explains the method, it requires pinning, then welding where the FH meets the barrel after being installed.
    Just to clarify, you do not need to weld where the flash hider meets the barrel. No welding is done to/on the barrel. The weld is to weld the /pin/ in place within the muzzle device. The MD cannot be turned because the pin will conflict with the threads of the barrel. The only way to remove it is to drill out the welded pin and remove all remnants, hopefully without messing up the threads worse. Of course if you do that, obviously it's stupid and illegal. Just trying to clarify the effect and process of permanently attaching the MD in such a manner.
     

    Ritten

    SSST Mad Scientist
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    No, what I said is that there are two ways to skin this cat. 1. Welding the FH to the barrel thus making it a permanent extension of the barrel. 2. Pinning it and either hi-temp soldering the pin in place or welding over the pin (same thing).
     

    S&W4ME

    I'm kind of a big deal
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    Sep 7, 2009
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    Walker, LA
    Really? Adco does it for $30 if I can't find someone local I'm gonna send it to them...I'm no machinist, but what's so hard about it?


    Here. Try this. You're welcome

    tumblr_lyzxsjxngi1r1ku1o.jpg
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    If that is truly the case, I wonder why so many people run 14.5" barrels with pinned FH's? I wonder I companies like BCM offer 14.5" assemblies with pinned FH's but don't mention anything about compromising the barrel?
    Because it's really not that big of a deal. I don't know what finish they do on their flash hiders though, or what stage of the manufacturing the muzzle device is attached. The refinishing the is biggest PITA, imo. But for someone like BCM doing the quantity they do, it's possible they rearrange the 'order of operations' to suit the perm-attached FHs and make is easier and less impacting of the process; I don't know.
     

    SpeedRacer

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    Because it's really not that big of a deal. I don't know what finish they do on their flash hiders though, or what stage of the manufacturing the muzzle device is attached. The refinishing the is biggest PITA, imo. But for someone like BCM doing the quantity they do, it's possible they rearrange the 'order of operations' to suit the perm-attached FHs and make is easier and less impacting of the process; I don't know.

    It's just a tiny spot weld as seen in my pic above. I hit it with some Alumahyde real quick and you literally can't tell it's there. No biggie. Mine was done by a talented local fella but since he doesn't do it for a living I don't want to throw his name out there as a candidate.
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    It's just a tiny spot weld as seen in my pic above. I hit it with some Alumahyde real quick and you literally can't tell it's there. No biggie. Mine was done by a talented local fella but since he doesn't do it for a living I don't want to throw his name out there as a candidate.
    Appropriateness of finish depends on application, sure. For my guns... a dab with cold blue or high temp paint is all I care for. Now, if I had something like a gun Ritten built, I'd be picky about getting something less "garage-done" haha. ... or, well, not do a 14.5" in the first place, of course.

    But yea... my process:

    Attach flash hider where it's gonna reside. Grind small flat on 6'oclock of FH. Centerpunch location of hole. Drill small hole in FH until it engages barrel threads. If necessary, drill hole out to final size required for whatever pin I'm using. Tap pin into hole. Weld pin to FH. Grind flat or reasonably well shaped, and ensure pin is still welded in place after surface shaping. Coat as needed... Krylon high temp, cold blue, sharpie marker... whatever suits. :P That's for my personal guns ofc. If it's a 'customer' gun or someone who paid/bartered me to do it, I'll do a better finish.
     

    ABN_INF

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    I'm not throwing a fit by any means, just stating the obvious, two pages of replies and not one person had anything helpful to say. If you can't help then why even reply in my thread? To start **** and call me "douche" go **** yourself
     

    bigjakewelch

    Mill Spec
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    Mar 19, 2010
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    If you can get it to BR by next weekend I'll do it for you. It's a simple job that will take 30 to 45mins. My shop rate is $65 an hour. So your looking at $32.50 to $48.75 for labor and what ever materials are (pin and High Temp Solder) if you want a special coating or color match then that will add to it a bit. Here lately I have only been taking on walk in work on Saturdays so if you still need it done, I'm here.
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    I'm not throwing a fit by any means, just stating the obvious, two pages of replies and not one person had anything helpful to say. If you can't help then why even reply in my thread? To start **** and call me "douche" go **** yourself
    uhhhhh. k. Good luck, chief.
     

    jdindadell

    Not Banned!!!
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    Slidell
    I have done a few of these. I find it easier to drill a hole thru the flash hider before it is on the barrel. Then mount it (with a crash washer or shims) and index it. Then drill into the threads slightly below the bottom of the threads. I use my selection of broken drill bits that I have stashed over the years as pin material. I also countersink the hole in the flash hider slightly so that the weld will be below the surface, thus still be around after grinding.

    Note that some of the finishes on flash hiders are very hard, so you may need to grind into the area you want to drill before attempting to drill. I have had to do this a few times, I figure the finish is nitrocarburizing or melonite or something that does harden the surface of the metal.

    If done correctly I doubt much heat gets to the barrel, as the weld is very small and barely has to penetrate the flash hider. I also make the pin shorter so that the weld sits on top of it, but only slightly higher than the flash hider, easier to finish, less grinding etc.
     

    returningliberty

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    I'm not throwing a fit by any means, just stating the obvious, two pages of replies and not one person had anything helpful to say. If you can't help then why even reply in my thread? To start **** and call me "douche" go **** yourself

    Ya you're gonna do real well here. Where's Hunh Bruh at? Somebody get him in this thread!
     

    Dishonored

    Hunter
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    Damn how did I miss that response.
    Lighten up man. If I woulda known you were so sensitive I wouldn't have said any butt hurtful things.
    My apologies. Thought most of us were men here.
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    Does anyone have a link to actual regulations on the subject?
    https://www.atf.gov/sites/default/files/assets/pdf-files/atf-p-5320-8.pdf

    ATF 5320.8 Sec 2.1.3 Rifle
    The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to
    the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of
    attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
    soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod
    into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the
    furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and
    measured.
     

    ABN_INF

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    I could honestly care a less about the name calling. I'm sitting in front of a computer and I'm not the type to play Internet tough guy. I don't post here much but It's always the same thing. 2 or 3 pages of blabber and one or two helpful responses,
    I got a Responce from someone who can do it today, thanks to everyone who tried to help. Mods can lock it up now
     

    JNieman

    Dush
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    So by full-fusion, are they stating it needing to be a full 360 around the barrel?
    I've heard 'authorities' on the subject confirm 360, and others say 180 suffices. I've never sought affirmative clarification as I think it's a choice that results in a worse product that could essentially ruin the barrel whereas a blind pin + weld is as non-invasive as you can be and still be permanently attached by their regs. If you wanted to go that route, I suppose I would seek out someone who could clarify it from a position of authority.
     

    WrenchGuy

    ARmed ARtisan
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    1   0   0
    Aug 10, 2014
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    Slidell, Louisiana
    I know this is an older thread, but does anyone know of a shop near Slidell or the north-shore area that will blind pin & weld for me?

    Yes, I can do it myself (and do it very well) I'd just rather save the time and have it done for me.

    Thanks!
     

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