No, what I said is that there are two ways to skin this cat. 1. Welding the FH to the barrel thus making it a permanent extension of the barrel. 2. Pinning it and either hi-temp soldering the pin in place or welding over the pin (same thing).
But yea... my process:
Attach flash hider where it's gonna reside. Grind small flat on 6'oclock of FH. Centerpunch location of hole. Drill small hole in FH until it engages barrel threads. If necessary, drill hole out to final size required for whatever pin I'm using. Tap pin into hole. Weld pin to FH. Grind flat or reasonably well shaped, and ensure pin is still welded in place after surface shaping. Coat as needed... Krylon high temp, cold blue, sharpie marker... whatever suits. :P That's for my personal guns ofc. If it's a 'customer' gun or someone who paid/bartered me to do it, I'll do a better finish.
I'm not throwing a fit by any means, just stating the obvious, two pages of replies and not one person had anything helpful to say. If you can't help then why even reply in my thread? To start shit and call me "douche" go **** yourself
If you can get it to BR by next weekend I'll do it for you. It's a simple job that will take 30 to 45mins. My shop rate is $65 an hour. So your looking at $32.50 to $48.75 for labor and what ever materials are (pin and High Temp Solder) if you want a special coating or color match then that will add to it a bit. Here lately I have only been taking on walk in work on Saturdays so if you still need it done, I'm here.
ALL AMERICAN GUNSMITHING LLC
BATON ROUGE, LA
In the saying " for God and Country" there is a reason that "God is first.
I have done a few of these. I find it easier to drill a hole thru the flash hider before it is on the barrel. Then mount it (with a crash washer or shims) and index it. Then drill into the threads slightly below the bottom of the threads. I use my selection of broken drill bits that I have stashed over the years as pin material. I also countersink the hole in the flash hider slightly so that the weld will be below the surface, thus still be around after grinding.
Note that some of the finishes on flash hiders are very hard, so you may need to grind into the area you want to drill before attempting to drill. I have had to do this a few times, I figure the finish is nitrocarburizing or melonite or something that does harden the surface of the metal.
If done correctly I doubt much heat gets to the barrel, as the weld is very small and barely has to penetrate the flash hider. I also make the pin shorter so that the weld sits on top of it, but only slightly higher than the flash hider, easier to finish, less grinding etc.
"These Rocky Mountains aren't very rocky. Yeah, that John Denver is full of SH**!"
NRA Certified Instructor
Damn how did I miss that response.
Lighten up man. If I woulda known you were so sensitive I wouldn't have said any butt hurtful things.
My apologies. Thought most of us were men here.
ATF 5320.8 Sec 2.1.3 Rifle
The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to
the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of
attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod
into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the
furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and
I could honestly care a less about the name calling. I'm sitting in front of a computer and I'm not the type to play Internet tough guy. I don't post here much but It's always the same thing. 2 or 3 pages of blabber and one or two helpful responses,
I got a Responce from someone who can do it today, thanks to everyone who tried to help. Mods can lock it up now
So by full-fusion, are they stating it needing to be a full 360 around the barrel?