M1 Garand Relod Help

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  • Tim67

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    Jul 20, 2010
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    EBR
    I haven't used it enough to judge yet, but the RCBS "X" die is supposed to control case length without trimming.
     

    Metryshooter

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    Jul 11, 2010
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    Military or commercial brass? Garands and M1As are very hard on brass and my experience has been that commercial brass is softer than military brass.
    Result is that it stretches more than military and doesn't last as long.
    You will get start getting case head seperations at 5 -7 reloads with military brass. Less with commercial.
    Full length resize and trim to length each time also.
    +1 especially if you have one with a worn throat.
    Unless you're a purist I'd always recommend an adjustable has valve for Garands. It'll allow you to tailor your loads to what the barrel likes and not what the whole rifle likes.
     

    Bayou52

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    Mar 18, 2013
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    Slidell, La
    Just a couple of tips that I use for myself when loading for the Garand:

    I concur with the posts above that with any auto-loading rifle, like the Garand, brass should be FL sized every time. Further, after FL sizing, brass length should be measured each time, and trimmed, if necessary.

    I also use a paperclip to reach to the bottom of the case wall to check for any perceptable signs of the beginning of brass wall thinning which could lead to case head separation. See the pic:

    http://www.larrywillis.com/headspace-2.jpg

    A Dillon headspace gage is used to assure proper shoulder placement after FL sizing.

    Anyway, these are some of the things I do for my own Garand reloading. Everyone's different, and I try to learn of others' techniques as well.

    Hope this helps.

    Bayou
     
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    340six

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    I agree 100% care should be taken with Rifle not like banging out a bunch of 9mm on a progressive.
    I de-cap Brass clean. Then after I inspect. If need be swag primer pockets. Size with a home made lube Lanolin, Water and Alcohol mix. I spray it on and toss them around, Do a full length size. Trim cases, with RCBS trimpro. so they go fast. Debur and Chamfer with a Lyman case prep.
    Hand prime with RCBS tool. I like the old RCBS powder dispencer/ scale combo is slow but is on the money. Plus the scale was free as needed a new power cord. Dispencer was like 120.
    Yes it is slow but 100% powder charges is wort the time.
    Used set of old RCBS dies sizes from the 60's them as would any brand. I do like checking them in a Dillon case gauge.
    Grabbed a used rcbs competition seating die and like it.
    A-Max 168's or cast 200's work well the cast 200's are just as good and easier on the shoulder and shoot clean
    Varget and h-4895 are my go to powders
     
    Last edited:

    340six

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    here are some Hornady 150 FMJ, 168 A Max and 200 311365 311365.jpg311365-150-3.jpg311365-168A-Max-1.jpg311365-150-2.jpg
     

    Shadeaux

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    Apr 22, 2012
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    Hammond
    New to reloading and I began reloading for my M1 Garand. I wanted to test the cycling function with my Garand. All safety precautions were taken as I loaded a clip of reloads into the magazine. I then pulled back on the op-rod and ejected the first round, released the op-rod and chambered the next round. At around the third cartridge entering the chamber, I am unable to pull the op-rod back to extract the round. The first time this happened I had to disassemble the M1 and (while pointed in a safe direction), used a rubber mallet to unjam the oprod and extract the round. Upon inspection of the round I noticed a very dark narrow ring around the front of the case neck where it meets the seated bullet. A quick check online doesn't show much except to clean the chamber really good. So I did that and repeated the check. This time I put two new commercial rounds in the clip go cycle those first, and with no trouble. On the first reload, I am once again left with a round stuck in the chamber.

    While the good news is it's not my rifle that's causing the trouble, the bad news is it's the reloads and I don't know what the problem would be that is causing this. Would this be an issue to shoot or would the pressure be enough to safely cycle the M1 or am I risking excessive pressure or force on the bolt if I attempt to shoot it in this condition?

    I used a classic lee loader which resizes the neck, and the casing is suppose to already be formed to my M1's chamber as these casings were previous commercial loads shot through it. The load data is a Nosler HPBT 155gr with 46-47gr IMR4895. OAL is 3.34 but I've kept them between 3.31 and 3.32.

    Anyone? Help?

    Somewhat related. I recently loaded 100 30-06 rounds using Greek Army surplus brass I had fired. It is military brass sold by CMP from the 70's and shoots great. I resized the brass and trimmed as needed and loaded 150 gr Hornady soft point spitzer bullets ranging from 47 to 49gr of IMR-4895 and the rifle would not cycle completely. It would eject but not strip the next round.

    The rifle is a CMP "Special" with a new barrel, bolt and wood so I don't think it is the rifle. There is a noticeable difference in recoil between the Greek Army surplus and my reloads. I pulled a round and the bullet is longer than the Hornady and there was 49gr of an unknown stick powder. I have seen military load data stating that 52gr is max fir IMR-4895 but I think I will not go that high. I plan to load in .2gr increments to 50gr or until the rifle cycles. I want to keep everything to military specifications as I can. But I am not sure what that is.
     
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