Bolt release install on AR

Magdump · Nov 23, 2016

Just in case there's that one new builder out there having problems, took this pic for a friend to show him my way of getting it done, before there were offset punches and AR blocks. And because another set of hands usually comes with a mouth attached, which I find to hinder my work. Get the pin started and use a rubber band to hold the release lever in place. Position the piece, turn the lower upright and by all means, any kind of thick tape if you think you'll slip.

Next lower I'll take pics of the easy method for takedown pin install. I never like to toot my own horn, but I've built over 100 since the early 80's. If anybody ever runs into a snag, feel free to PM me any questions

Spleen · Nov 23, 2016

Novel idea for installing the roll pin my brother.
I've never had any difficulty (after about ten builds) and have mostly worried about marring the lower.
I do it the dumb old fashioned way of jamming the roll pin in the hole and tapping hopefully with a tack hammer.
(My wife never complained...)

Spleen · Nov 23, 2016

Oh, needed to add, I will try your way next time.
Looks solid.

Blue Diamond · Nov 23, 2016

I use one of the plastic straws that come with spray oils. I line it up on the straw push the straw through then start on opposite side and tap pin in and the straw out. Works like a charm.

SpeedRacer · Nov 23, 2016

Blue Diamond said:
I use one of the plastic straws that come with spray oils. I line it up on the straw push the straw through then start on opposite side and tap pin in and the straw out. Works like a charm.

This is how I've always done it, but this rubber band method looks even more fool proof and I like that you can tap straight down. Great idea.

The last lower I built (Battle Arms) used a screw-in pin for the bolt release. I hope that becomes a standard, soooo easy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rcm192 · Nov 23, 2016

That is a good idea. I always found something to use as a slave pin while driving the pin in place.

MTregre · Nov 23, 2016

Good idea. I've always had to 'press' that pin in with a viselock wrench. I often feel a 3rd hand would be great

DAVE_M · Nov 23, 2016

I've always used a slave pin.

Abby Normal · Nov 24, 2016

DAVE_M said:
I've always used a slave pin.

Isn't that Racest? I just built my 1st lower and looked at what tools I already had on hand. I used a piece of coat hanger. It worked just like Dave's "slave" pin. Easy Pezie.

Magdump · Nov 24, 2016

I built a milled lower last year that I got in a group buy that uses a threaded pin and yeah, wish they were all like that. I've amassed many smithing tools over the years and some never get used, but I keep a bag of those tight little blue rubber bands just for this purpose. Keeps the spring in place and the release lever pin hole perfectly aligned. The slave pin method works but lends to another potential scratch.
I can't stress the protective tape enough. A good vinyl electrical tape works fine. Double layering works better. Offset punches are helpful but not completely necessary.
One other tip for starting pins, a small file to taper the end you intend to start will usually allow you to push the pin in a tad and have it stay. A drop of oil in the pin hole helps too. When changing to a different charging handle latch, try stopping the pin at the point where the old latch is free so you don't have to restart the pin.
And the builder's block I have (one of 3) is a wise investment. They aren't do-alls, but they're very helpful for a few steps in builds and teardowns.

Request Dust Off · Nov 24, 2016

What I do is put the pin in a drill and spin it on an abrasive to chamfer the end if needed. Then I put the pin through a hole in a thin piece of aluminum. This makes it easy to hold it and also decreases the diameter a little.
Some thin alum or plastic to protect the lower for added safety.

JCcypress · Nov 25, 2016

http://sulzerfirearms.com/bolt-catch-elongated-starter-punch/

These are great.

Bolt release install on AR

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