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July 2nd, 2009, 01:34 PM #1
Knife Fighting Points by Gabe Suarez
The following was covered in the knife portion of the Terrorist/Active Shooter Interdiction class we attended this past May. It was sent out today in a Suarez International e-mail.
KNIFE FIGHTING POINTS
Ten Points About The Fighting Knife
1). The knife is always with you, even in places where the gun cannot go.
2). It becomes the first line of weaponry when the pistol is not available by choice, policy, inaccessibility or loss.
3). If things have gotten bad enough to need the knife, the use of the knife should be aggressive, brutal and terminal, and not "defensive".
4). There is a place for using a knife against the unarmed adversary if that adversary is younger, stronger or faster than you are...or more numerous.
5). There is a place for keeping them away with your edge, but there is also a place for closing and stabbing.
6). A knife worthy of combat carry should facilitate stabbing and be simple and instinctive to use.
7). The more complicated and complex a knife is, and the more elaborate its system of use, the less desirable it is.
8). Conversely, the simpler the knife and the system and more gross motor dependant it is, the better it will do in a fight.
9). A fixed blade is more desirable than a folder, but a folder may be required in some applications. If a folder is used, the lock should be robust and not technically clever.
10). Learn to be violent with your knife
Ten Attributes To Select Your Fighting Knife
1). Sharp as hell and pointy as f***, you can't stab anyone or cut anyone with a dull round nosed blade. If this sounds vulgar, it is. There is nothing dainty about ramming a 3" piece of steel into a man's thrioat and tiwsting it as he fights to get it out.
2). Point in line with the handle. Upswept blades may be the acme of the knifemaker artist, but they suck eggs for ramming through a clavicle.
3). Long enough...but not too long. We hear that about lots of things.
4). Rough handle. Either G-10 or rough designed zytel handles. When you stab another man, his juices will get all over your blade and hand.
5). Solid lock. Liner locks suck. I don't care how graceful or cool they are...they suck. Axis lock as seen with benchmade or with Cold Steel is the way to go, or with an old style lockback design.
6). Solid opening method. This being 2009, and the "Wave" concept being as old as the pyramids now....a combat blade should have a wave feature if it is a folder.
7). Good steel. That does NOT mean stainless. I don't give an airborne fornication about stains on my knife...I WANT IT SHARP!
8). Again, if a folder, it needs a movable clip so operators may carry it as desired. The more I work on this Killing-focused system, the more I am liking reverse grip - edge in. That means for a righty, you carry point up- blade forward.
9). It must be cost-effective. Notice I did not say CHEAP. Cheap knives are for ****. Cost-effective means that if I decide to ditch it, I will not be heart broken to lose my special one-of-a-kind....nor will that special one-of-a-kind be tied to me.
10). There should be a boatload of them out there in society....like Glocks. Thus you cannot be identified or tied to the gear you use.
If some of this stuff sounds like it comes from the world of the criminal rather than the world of the law abiding good guy, it does. One does not go to a clean shaven altar boy to learn to cut a throat.
Ten Points About Using The Knife In A Fight
1). A fighting is knife is fueled by rage and ferocity, not by cleverness and showmanship. I recall seeing CWS go ape (or was it AMOK) on a knife expert we brought in one year. The best the very clever and artistic knife expert could do was match CWS stab for stab. But that was after CWS had stabbed him three or four times.
2). Learn to stab....HARD
3). Learn to hold the knife in a way that you will not lose it when you STAB HARD.
4). Since few of us go about with a 10" bowie, learn your targets. You may not be able to behead an attacker, but you can in fact rip out his jugular even with a 2" box cutter.
5). Footwork gets you off the line of the attack, but also gets you close enough to STAB HIM HARD.
6). The instant you pull steel your intent should be to stick it in his neck and rip it out a different way, and not to spar, fend, or ask him to stay back.
7). The grip area of your knife MUST be rough enough to stay in your hand if your hand is covered with blood (hopefully not yours).
8). The point must be in line with your stab. A Cold Steel Scimitar of a Spyderco Chinook do not have this, but a Cold Steel AK-47 and a Spyderco Endura do.
9). To train it, each knife must have an identical trainer (dulled knife) and a wooden/rubberized trainer (like Nok's). The identical trainer is used for technical and access drills. The wooden type trainer is used for attacking the heavy bag or the stabbing post.
10). Contrary to the advice of others, use your fighting knife for everything. From opening letters to cutting cheese or tomatoes. Handle your knife daily, keep it sharp, keep it handy. make accessing it as natural as scratching your butt.
One Source Tactical
Suarez International USA
Christian Warrior Ministries
Matthew 10:34 Think not that I am come to
send peace on earth: I came not to send peace,
but a sword.
July 2nd, 2009, 02:04 PM #2
July 8th, 2009, 07:13 PM #3
September 17th, 2009, 07:19 PM #4
September 17th, 2009, 10:36 PM #5
Good write up. I've trusted the same cold-steel tanto for 10 years or so. To me it does no good to have more than 2 knives. One for survival and one for fighting. You can have one for both, but I like my folding tanto for concealment and my ka-bar for survival and in my pack. Any more than that and you're just showing off.
September 17th, 2009, 11:49 PM #6
Damn spyderco pocket clips bend REALLLY easily though.
I bent two in 4 daysANTI-STATE ANTI-WAR PRO-MARKET PRO-LIBERTY