Removing the Bircage Flash Hider on Colt 6920? Replace with??

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  • dfsutton

    US Veteran
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    Mar 13, 2009
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    Metairie, LA
    Hi all

    I'm not too pleased with the Birdcage Flash Hider on my Colt 6920 as it doesn't do a great job or reducing muzzle climb.

    To compare, The Factory flash hider/brake on my Springfield M1A Scout Squad almost completely eliminates muzzle climb and while recoil is strong, it is straight back into the shooter even though it's the larger .308/7.62 round out of an 18" barrel. This is much better for my tastes and I am actually quicker on follow-up shots with my M1A than my AR.

    What I'm really interested in knowing is if the Flash hider is permanently attached on a 6920 and will require gunsmithing to remove?

    I'm also interested in knowing what flash supressors/muzzle brakes would be able to direct recoil back into me more, rather than causing my muzzle to climb?

    All help is appreciated.
     
    Last edited:

    Richard in LA

    Mag Whore
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    May 19, 2007
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    St. Amant, LA
    Hi all

    I'm not too pleased with the Birdcage Flash Hider on my Colt 6920 as it doesn't do a great job or reducing muzzle climb.

    To compare, The Factory flash hider/brake on my Springfield M1A Scout Squad almost completely eliminates muzzle climb and while recoil is strong, it is straight back into the shooter even though it's the larger .308/7.62 round out of an 18" barrel. This is much better for my tastes and I am actually quicker on follow-up shots with my M1A than my AR.

    What I'm really interested in knowing is if the Flash hider is permanently attached on a 6920 and will require gunsmithing?

    I'm also interested in knowing what flash supressors/muzzle brakes would be able to direct recoil back into me more, rather than causing my muzzle to climb?

    All help is appreciated.

    It is a flash suppressor, it is not designed to reduce muzzle climb at all. The A2 flash suppressor on the 6950 should just unscrew with a 3/4" wrench. I would NOT try and use a crescent wrench, or you will bugger up the flats of the suppressor.

    A couple members here have the "DNTC" brake, and say it helps with muzzle rise, but they are LOUD. There is even an A2 muzzle brake, that looks similar to the factory one, but is different internally to direct the muzzle blast, but it will also not reduce your muzzle flash at night.
    image
     

    beauxdog

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    You could try a Miculek Comp, they work very good on the muzzel climb part but they are very lound. Any comp you get will be very loud, just so you know.

    Beauxdog
     

    dfsutton

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    Your AR has high recoil?

    :mamoru: :D

    Yea it will make it loud as hell, no one will want to use the lane next to you at the range.

    I personally think the Flash Hider is more useful.

    Stop it guys! :rofl:

    Seriously though. I'm not looking to reduce recoil. I just want to redirect it back into my shoulder rather than up pushing my muzzle off target.

    The AR recoil isn't much, unfortunately it's just not in the best direction.

    You all get what I'm saying?
     

    dfsutton

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    Last edited:

    BayouSlide

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    You could try a Miculek Comp, they work very good on the muzzel climb part but they are very lound. Any comp you get will be very loud, just so you know.

    Beauxdog

    I like the Miculek comp as well...loud? Maybe, but I wear both ear plugs and muffs so you'll have to ask the guys around me. Better speak up, 'cause their ears are still ringing :rofl:

    Seriously, the Miculek is very effective and much less expensive than its competitors.
     

    Narco

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    dfsutton

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    I have the Rainer arms version of that called the DNTC Aggressive. There is no literally no movement but shooters on the side will run from you...

    Sound doesn't bother me. I use good muffs and I shoot at Honey Island.

    What about the muzzle flash for night shooting?

    http://www.primaryweapons.com/UserFiles/Media/FSC556_web.wmv

    Here is a video showing the original DNTC and the FSC. If the compensation is near equal, it looks like the FSC would be far superior.
     

    scooterj

    Stupid is 'posed to hurt
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    Dec 14, 2008
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    LaPlace
    If noise doesn't bother you, take a look at the JP Recoil Eliminator. Nothing better on the market. It's kinda spendy though.
     

    WHEELER

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    I was on the range once and the guy in the next lane was shooting a 16" AR w/ a 74 brake, fawk that was loud
     

    Quickdraw22

    I SPEAK DA THUGG!1!
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    Oct 18, 2007
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    Sulphur, Louisiana
    I'm trying to take the one off of my rifle to switch with a compensator I picked up for cheap, but I feel like I'm about to snap the barrel off!! It doesn't want to budge.

    Any tips/tricks I should know about?? This is a right hand threaded barrel, correct?? Would sticking this in a padded vise be safe, or would it damage the receiver?

    Thanks guys - DAVE
     

    Richard in LA

    Mag Whore
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    May 19, 2007
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    Dave,
    sit down in a chair, and place the buttstock between your feet, and close your knees together on the handguards tightly. Works fine for me, no need for the vise. Yes, it's standard RH threads, but might require a little effort to get the FH broken loose. Are you sure it's not pinned, as a post ban upper may be?
     

    Quickdraw22

    I SPEAK DA THUGG!1!
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    Oct 18, 2007
    3,268
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    Sulphur, Louisiana
    Are you sure it's not pinned, as a post ban upper may be?

    Is it an OBVIOUS pin?? I don't see a damn thing holding it on.....

    I tried laying it on the floor, and did some UFC type moves to break it loose, but I just ended up looking like a retard.

    It's a Stag 2T if that helps......
     

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