Epoxy resin to secure safe to concrete slab? Advice needed
- Thread starter swagge1
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Word to the wise if you have something with enough value and someone wants it bad enough nothing will stop them from getting it. The main reason to bolt safes down is so they cannot get pushed over and pried open with more leverage or strapped to a dolly and rolled out. My safe weighs between 900-1200lbs with guns in it and I can move it myself I am 5'9 210 and 27yrs old now imagine 2 or 3 of me with a skillsaw to cut walls and a dolly or a few pry bars and 15 minutes of free time. I personally bolt mine down just because if I can move it easily I know a few guys can move it easier
With all due respect; don't glue your safe to the floor. That's just silly.
I misunderstood you...I thought when you said "epoxy" you were wanting to use some type of epoxy anchoring system.
You might want to look into those drop in anchors someone suggested above- especially if you might want to move it in the future. Unscrew the bolts on the inside & you're GTG....
velociraptor
Well-Known Member
If this is a new build, just have the contractor build in a couple of anchor points when the slab is poured.
This won't happen in real life. At least not in mine. My safes are no where near any main entry door in my home. The thief will have to pass up thousands in electronics and other goodies to even find my gun safes. The room they are in is not very accommodating for anyone to budge either one of them much further than they are. It took us about 30 minutes each to put em in. I have a 110# friend that lives in my house too. The dog and the alarm system should be enough to deter em.
True. But the epoxy bond is often stronger than the surface being bonded to. It may not be likely, but I wouldn't rule out that with enough force or leverage or sheer that the uppermost layer of concrete could wind up securely bonded to the bottom of the safe as the thieves wheel it out of your house. Leaving you a nice 2x3 patch of unsurfaced concrete. Particularly depending on how the slab was finished.
Almost any urethane adhesive would work, but I do recommend not gluing them in place. You may well want to reposition them after getting moved in or move out in a few years. I would suggest building a shelf or cabinet around them so they can't be tilted for moving without removing cabinet, I am not a fan of drilling a hole in a safe for anchoring as it could reduce fire rating. A poured recess is a great idea, you can always fill the void after moving the safe.
You can never make something theft proof, you can keep out amateurs, but in the end locks keep honest men honest.
Btw, my primary gun safe is 1200 lbs empty, that will slow down even a pro.
You can never make something theft proof, you can keep out amateurs, but in the end locks keep honest men honest.
Btw, my primary gun safe is 1200 lbs empty, that will slow down even a pro.
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Good advice here! If the anchors only need a hole drilled into the slab that is 2.75" thick then Ill probably go that route with the Hikti drill. Ill just have to double check the depth of the post tension cables. Id rather not have the slab guys sink bolts into the slab. Knowing my luck the holes wouldn't line up, or id damage the threads trying to lower the safes onto them. Basically, if the cables are 3" or deeper into the slab itll be a non issue for me. Thanks again for the replies!
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