Timney trigger install tips

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  • headspace

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    The instructions that come with the trigger are adequate so I won't go into all that, but, as with most anything you do on the first go round, you learn what to do the next time. Ya know, the things the instructions don't tell you.
    Here's the small pin, skeletonized loud button version, with a 3 lb pull weight. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355331387.859111.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355331400.210388.jpg

    You'd think it would come packaged a little better at a cost of $239 and change..

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355331455.062895.jpg

    Some useful tips... That have absolutely nothing to do with installing the contents of the package... But someone thought it would be as helpful as, let's say an address and phone of the manufacturer.
    I'm taking note of number 10 and I'll try to remember that the next time I'm experimenting with the cocktails. Although I distinctly remember Nicholas Cage being coaxed into snorting a line of gunpowder and shooting some kind of alcohol in that movie (Lord of War I think?) where he played a gun runner.

    Anyway, ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355331400.210388.jpg

    Yeah yeah, pull off the grip, where'd that spring go? Pull the safety, blah blah blah, pop the two pins and release the mousetrap stock set all over the bench.
    Drop in the timney, pins slip in with finger pressure, and now the fun stuff. Pull the trigger while holding the hammer, let it rest on the bolt release. There are some set screws (two) that have to be tightened, as the instructions point out, but if you do this before reinstalling the safety selector, well, you won't be able to and you'll have to waste 10 minutes undoing stuff you already did. So, at this pointImageUploadedByTapatalk1355332154.968183.jpg

    ..replace the safety selector and detent and finally the handgrip and detent spring.. Pics in next post
     
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    headspace

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    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355332427.783789.jpg

    Detent goes in pointy end first, in case ya didn't get to notice cuz it came out in a hurry.

    To access the set screws and keep from damaging the legs of the hammer spring, best to move them legs out the way. Something with no sharp edges or teeth. Smooth needle nose (jeweler's pliers) or whatever
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355332703.365045.jpg

    And put it here
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355332729.040252.jpg

    Now that the legs are out the way you can get to screwing....ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355332841.052702.jpg

    Tighten each set screw as snug as you can without stripping or breaking something. Then there are two set screws in the package that go on top of those set screws and get screwed and, well, if you do it right, you wind up lifting a leg, screwing one side, releasing the leg and lifting the other, screwing that side... A lot of screwing. But it's all good.
     
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    headspace

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    Because, when your done screwing, and you release the hammer spring legs and straighten things out like this...

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355333162.137120.jpg

    You get to pull back the hammer and feel a very short, crisp 3 pound trigger.
    Not exactly as good as.. Well my finger liked it anyway..ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355333316.752078.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355333350.152915.jpg

    He never gets to pull the trigger, can ya tell?
    Now that the stock trigger set is out of this brand new lower, I can sweeten it up with the dremel and change the springs and drop it in one of my grab and go carbines. Maybe I'll post that one later if it hasn't been covered here already.
    Peace
     

    headspace

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    Just an add on, when you're done, replace your complete upper and give the charging handle a few tugs, try the safety, pull the trigger. These trigger sets have supposedly remedied any walking of the fire control group pins but, as with other things AR related, keep an eye on them at the range. After you run a few mags through it, you may need to go remove to upper set screws and retighten the bottom ones. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355338337.947004.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355338370.945745.jpg

    And a part number
     

    rcm192

    Sic semper tyrannis
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    good write up, thanks. now i need a MP15-22, a timney 3lb drop in, slidefire stock, a 50 rd BDM drum, and a butt ton of 22lr.
     

    Storm52

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    I assume that the set screws are for holding the pins? Don't understand topping off the set screws with another, but then there are several things I don't understand. Thanks for the writeup.
     

    headspace

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    I assume that the set screws are for holding the pins? Don't understand topping off the set screws with another, but then there are several things I don't understand. Thanks for the writeup.
    no sweat brother. The set screws actually lift the trigger housing against the pins and bind the whole unit against them and the lower, so yes, it definitely should keep them from walking out. I would generally just apply some loctite to the screws, but they're fix was to have "check" screws that work like a check nut on a motorcycle chain tensioner, or something to that effect.
     

    mprice

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    Outstanding write up!!

    For those of us who are "visual learners" pictorials are always better than the manufacturer's easy-to-follow instructions (and, yes especially the helpful ones with no customer service phone #).
    The one source I've discovered recently is the web - most all the mods I'm doing have very helpful vids available.

    I just finished installing a Geissele SSA (not as spendy as the timney but, not cheap either) and it took over an hour - I could do it now in less than 15 minutes so I understand what you are saying about tips, etc.
     

    headspace

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    Outstanding write up!!

    For those of us who are "visual learners" pictorials are always better than the manufacturer's easy-to-follow instructions (and, yes especially the helpful ones with no customer service phone #).
    The one source I've discovered recently is the web - most all the mods I'm doing have very helpful vids available.

    I just finished installing a Geissele SSA (not as spendy as the timney but, not cheap either) and it took over an hour - I could do it now in less than 15 minutes so I understand what you are saying about tips, etc.
    thanks brother. Hope it helps somebody some day
     

    JLouv

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    I still occasionally wake up sweating & screaming from the nightmares those freaking set screws & spring arms inspired.
     

    rcm192

    Sic semper tyrannis
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    I juat put the same one in my mp1522 with a slide fire....light primer strikes. I called timney and got the 4lb ar10 spring. Better now, but still not where it needs to be. I cut off a coil from my firing pin spring. Now it gets pretty good primer strikes. About. 80% now. All thats left as far as i know per timney is to get the ar10 hammer which is larger, more mass which contributes to a more solid strike. nother day another dollar.
     

    headspace

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    I juat put the same one in my mp1522 with a slide fire....light primer strikes. I called timney and got the 4lb ar10 spring. Better now, but still not where it needs to be. I cut off a coil from my firing pin spring. Now it gets pretty good primer strikes. About. 80% now. All thats left as far as i know per timney is to get the ar10 hammer which is larger, more mass which contributes to a more solid strike. nother day another dollar.
    id have never thought about installing one in a .22
    I had no idea they shared that many parts with the AR.
     

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