AR 15 trigger job for the home gunsmith

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  • Ferrara Fire

    Well-Known Member
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Dec 12, 2013
    165
    16
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    For Single Stage, the ACT trigger is Sweet, if you insist on lightening the pull some more, some reduced power JP springs will give you an extremely light, crisp trigger for less than $80 for the pair.
     

    dsonyay

    Well-Known Member
    Rating - 100%
    9   0   0
    Dec 15, 2007
    455
    16
    Broussard, LA
    For Single Stage, the ACT trigger is Sweet, if you insist on lightening the pull some more, some reduced power JP springs will give you an extremely light, crisp trigger for less than $80 for the pair.

    The only reason I wouldnt use the JP reduced power springs is if you shoot a lot of 5.56 surplus.. supposedly they have hard primers and once in a while a round may not fire. I would think .223 is no problem with those springs.

    My ACT has the stock springs and the pull feels like 3 or 4 pounds. I should have it measured next chance I get. It feels terrific.
     

    Ferrara Fire

    Well-Known Member
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Dec 12, 2013
    165
    16
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    ACT with stock springs is great. I might do a rifle with the low power springs, but 95% of my centerfire ammo comes out of a Dillon.
     

    bigjakewelch

    Mill Spec
    Rating - 98%
    50   1   0
    Mar 19, 2010
    2,050
    48
    Baton Rouge
    Its not the pull I'm concerned with. It feels like a smith and Wesson sv40. The second sigma. Just gritty.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

    If you have a chance to break it down take the trigger and sear out and send it to me and I'll do a stoning on it and that grittiness will go away. I don't advise anyone doing this at home unless you have the training and jigs to do this job and end up with a safe trigger after you install it. Shoot me a PM and I'll give you the address.
     

    scooterj

    Stupid is 'posed to hurt
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Dec 14, 2008
    4,374
    48
    LaPlace
    The problem with doing trigger jobs on milspec parts is only the outer surface of the parts are hardened. Once that surface is removed, the softer metal is exposed. Trigger may last a long time or only a couple hundred rounds.
    I have been using the JP trigger group for years and couldn't ask for more. That being said, the Hyper-Touch "C" trigger is slated for my next build.
     

    bigjakewelch

    Mill Spec
    Rating - 98%
    50   1   0
    Mar 19, 2010
    2,050
    48
    Baton Rouge
    The problem with doing trigger jobs on milspec parts is only the outer surface of the parts are hardened. Once that surface is removed, the softer metal is exposed. Trigger may last a long time or only a couple hundred rounds.

    I have done hundreds of "Smooth &Tune jobs" on AR's. The only time you run into cutting thru the case hardening is when you take too much off. The trigger and sear have a flat surface that has burs on it. You don't touch the "flat" surface you only address the burs. This is accomplished with a 4000 grit stone, a jig, and a 15x microscope. If you have the training and the proper tools it is easily accomplished. You can't cut length of pull or applied weight by doing this. Only smoothing the trigger pull and perceived weight should be adjusted. If you want any thing else out of your trigger you'll need to get a specific application trigger (Geissele, Timney, or a whole host of other manufacturers).
     

    scooterj

    Stupid is 'posed to hurt
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Dec 14, 2008
    4,374
    48
    LaPlace
    I have done hundreds of "Smooth &Tune jobs" on AR's. The only time you run into cutting thru the case hardening is when you take too much off. The trigger and sear have a flat surface that has burs on it. You don't touch the "flat" surface you only address the burs. This is accomplished with a 4000 grit stone, a jig, and a 15x microscope. If you have the training and the proper tools it is easily accomplished. You can't cut length of pull or applied weight by doing this. Only smoothing the trigger pull and perceived weight should be adjusted. If you want any thing else out of your trigger you'll need to get a specific application trigger (Geissele, Timney, or a whole host of other manufacturers).
    Not doubting that you do a fine job. The OP was asking about "diy" triggers. The average kitchen table smith doesn't have the stone, jig, 15x scope, or know-how. It's very easy to ruin parts.
     

    bigjakewelch

    Mill Spec
    Rating - 98%
    50   1   0
    Mar 19, 2010
    2,050
    48
    Baton Rouge
    Not doubting that you do a fine job. The OP was asking about "diy" triggers. The average kitchen table smith doesn't have the stone, jig, 15x scope, or know-how. It's very easy to ruin parts.

    I agree that's why I wanted to clarified what it takes to do a safe and quality trigger job on mill spec parts.
     

    Magdump

    Don’t troll me bro!
    Rating - 100%
    163   0   0
    Dec 31, 2013
    9,499
    113
    Hammond, Louisiana
    I still do many of my own. Never a problem
    epava9ys.jpg
    vy7etu2a.jpg

    iPhone camera lense
     

    jcomar1

    Well-Known Member
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    May 19, 2009
    361
    18
    I've got a Geissele SSA-E on the way. I can't wait to get it out on the range in a few weeks.
     

    jcomar1

    Well-Known Member
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    May 19, 2009
    361
    18
    You'll love it...it's a great trigger

    I installed it on Wed night and ran it at the range on Thursday. All I can say is wow, I am really impressed and very happy with this trigger. It could be a little bit lighter on the second stage, hopefully it will wear in a little and lighten up.
     

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