80% AR15 lowers

DaSouthernYankee · Jun 7, 2017

Quick question to y'all here, anyone done it? Any tips for the noob? I decided to look into it some last night and saw EP Armory has a jig and lower on sale for $40 each (aluminum, not polymer). Considering picking one of each up to play with since just ordering a lower or buying one local would be the same or more with FFL fee and sales tax.

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PECEMKR · Jun 7, 2017

https://www.5dtactical.com/ar-15-80-lower-jig-p/5d-jig15.htm

this is currently the most fool proof method of making a 80 percent

there are about 3 jigs that work well they are all in the 150.00 range and the specified router for all of them is about 150 to 200

KDerekT83 · Jun 7, 2017

I've done 3 in the last month with one more arriving tomorrow. As said above, there's a couple jigs out there that are great. 5D is one of them. I use the 80percentarms easy jig with a Makita Compact router and I have no issues. If you're gonna use poly lowers EP Armory and jmt are prolly among the best 2 out there. When you're ready to do an aluminum one, right now, www.rightobear.com has forged raw lowers for 26 bucks a piece..... with the EP armory lowers be careful. The hole for the rear take down pin is slightly off so youll have to drill it out a few hundredths, and the top of the lower where the buffer tube screws in will prolly have to be shaved a lil... I assembled one this morning, and couldn't pull the charging handle back because it was sliding against the top of the lower so I shaved it some and that fixed it...

wcweir3 · Jun 7, 2017

http://www.5dtactical.com/product-p/5d-fbk.htm

This is the kit that I will be ordering The Freedom Kit - 80% AR-15/AR-308 Jig and Lower Kit
I want to build an 300BO and a 308 so this will do me just fine.

Wingate

KDerekT83 · Jun 7, 2017

Good thing about the 5D units, is there is a hell of a market for them used. Once you're done with it, if you decide to let it go to the next guy when you're done with it, you can sell it for almost what you pay for it new.

DaSouthernYankee · Jun 20, 2017

Quick update, bought 2 on the RTB raw lowers to play with and I found the dimensions for the milling and holes for pins and safety selector. May start messing with it this week/ weekend. Btw finish in these lowers is great. Hard to complain for $26!

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KDerekT83 · Jun 20, 2017

Right on man!

DaSouthernYankee · Jun 20, 2017

KDerekT83 said:
Right on man!

Thanks brother. I'll keep this post updated as I can for others who want to venture into the unknown. The only thing I see I a potential issue is getting the pin holes aligned properly without a jig but I think I'll be ok.

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KDerekT83 · Jun 20, 2017

DaSouthernYankee said:
Thanks brother. I'll keep this post updated as I can for others who want to venture into the unknown. The only thing I see I a potential issue is getting the pin holes aligned properly without a jig but I think I'll be ok.

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If you mess up the first one, let me know. I go to slidell every 2 weeks. I'll let you borrow my EasyJig so you can get a feel for it

DaSouthernYankee · Jun 20, 2017

KDerekT83 said:
If you mess up the first one, let me know. I go to slidell every 2 weeks. I'll let you borrow my EasyJig so you can get a feel for it

Thank you, that is very generous! I will keep y'all updated.

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DaSouthernYankee · Nov 4, 2017

Quick update (long overdue) I’ve been working on milling out a lower for the last several weeks bit by bit. Still needs about 1/16 more material removed from one side, even everything out, polish and drill the pin holes, safety switch hole and trigger hole. Hoping to finish it this weekend. I’ll post up some pics when it’s done (btw all done with no jig, just careful measurement)

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DaSouthernYankee · Nov 5, 2017

Another update. First lower is scrapped. Drilled one of the trigger pin holes off center. All was good till then. Project is on hold till I can get a jig.

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KDerekT83 · Nov 6, 2017

It's not unheard of to fill the booboo hole with J B Weld, let it cure for a day or 2, then start over. I've seen many people do it, and it works. Also, it's used, (I've done 5), but my offer still stands to let you use my 80% arms easy jig.

DaSouthernYankee · Nov 6, 2017

KDerekT83 said:
It's not unheard of to fill the booboo hole with J B Weld, let it cure for a day or 2, then start over. I've seen many people do it, and it works. Also, it's used, (I've done 5), but my offer still stands to let you use my 80% arms easy jig.

Jb weld isn’t a bad idea tho I wonder how well it will hold up in the long run. I actually stumbled on a cheap polymer jig that comes with bits (from polymer 80, it’s supposed to work with any mil spec lower and is only $50) so I think I’m gonna order one when I get paid again on Friday. Again, thanks for the offer and the jb weld tip, I really appreciate it

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SVTFreak · Nov 6, 2017

A good aluminum welder could plug that bad hole up.

Sulzer · Nov 6, 2017

I would advise starting over. If the hole is off centered and the new hole needs to be where some JB weld is then that isn't going to work well. Also, the adhesion on the JB is suspect for the application. As for welding, it would likely be more expensive to get someone to do it than buy another 80%, if you can even find someone given the application and possible liability. 7075-T6 Al is very susceptible to micro cracking, which propagate over time, and is generally viewed as unweldable with a few exceptions where it is accepted practice such as repairing molds.

DaSouthernYankee · Nov 6, 2017

SulzerFirearms said:
I would advise starting over. If the hole is off centered and the new hole needs to be where some JB weld is then that isn't going to work well. Also, the adhesion on the JB is suspect for the application. As for welding, it would likely be more expensive to get someone to do it than buy another 80%, if you can even find someone given the application and possible liability. 7075-T6 Al is very susceptible to micro cracking, which propagate over time, and is generally viewed as unweldable with a few exceptions where it is accepted practice such as repairing molds.

I have another lower I will be using a jig on. If I did fix the first one it would be for a dedicated 22lr upper I keep forgetting to buy a barrel for (doh!)

I’ve also been looking at another product to mess around with, ar15mold.com has a resin casting 100% mold with steel reinforced rear. I don’t suppose anyone here has any experience with those?

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DaSouthernYankee · Nov 8, 2017

Another another update.

Decided to try another idea out. I used my other lower I have as a template to make a pin hike jig. Used the other 80% lower for takedown pin holes, then disassembled my built lower and went to work. Used a pair of 1/4 inch drill bits to hold the lower and drill holes thru the pin and safety holes into a 1X6, removed the lower and drilled out another board using the first one as a template in a vice. I put the boards on my dismantled lower and everything appears to line up perfectly.

So with the hardest part figured out I hope to start on my 2nd 80% lower in the near future.

End result

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jdindadell · Nov 9, 2017

I like the hole alignment jig you made, no need to overthink layouts when a simple concept like that will do the job!

As for the mis-drilled hole in your 1st lower, you can always drill it out bigger, to a known size, then press in a round piece of al in, with some jb weld or other adhesive, and then re-drill in the correct location. I am sure that you can buy a al pin, in 7075 or 6061.

A cheap set of transfer punches will help with layout with your hole jig, and you will not have to drill with the jig installed, thus saving the carefully drilled holes in the wood.

As far as the router jigs are concerned, I really do not see paying all of that money when you could by a mini mill and have a much more versatile tool. I use mine all of the time, and have done both al and poly lowers.

DaSouthernYankee · Nov 9, 2017

jdindadell said:
I like the hole alignment jig you made, no need to overthink layouts when a simple concept like that will do the job!

As for the mis-drilled hole in your 1st lower, you can always drill it out bigger, to a known size, then press in a round piece of al in, with some jb weld or other adhesive, and then re-drill in the correct location. I am sure that you can buy a al pin, in 7075 or 6061.

A cheap set of transfer punches will help with layout with your hole jig, and you will not have to drill with the jig installed, thus saving the carefully drilled holes in the wood.

As far as the router jigs are concerned, I really do not see paying all of that money when you could by a mini mill and have a much more versatile tool. I use mine all of the time, and have done both al and poly lowers.

I have thought the same thing about the mini mill. Unfortunately I’m about out of space for the few tools I do have or I would have got one and about 20 more lowers.

In regards to the jig, I thought about drilling the holes out larger and setting in hardened steel pipe (maybe with outer threads) for longevity (assuming the thing even works like I hope). I think that would be much easier and cheaper, especially for the DIYer with limited money. It would probably cost the same as a poly jig to make with a much longer service life and be user serviceable.

Anyhow, I’ll worry about all that Jazz later, for now I’m just worried about what I have working!

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80% AR15 lowers

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