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  1. #11
    -Administrator-
    Make your own luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by sandman7925 View Post
    Well I need to get a dehumidifier first. Moving the safe into a guest house I used to rent out and now turning it into a man cave. It doesn’t have central air and don’t want to run the window unit 24/7 so I figured a dehumidifier would work. It’s gonna be cool when I’m done though.


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    Are you going to get an electric dehumidifier or the ones that need to be changed out?
    -- Austin

    "There is no "i" in team but there is in win. "
    --Michael Jordan


    Failing to plan is planning to fail.

  2. #12
    Wealthy women wanted

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    Quote Originally Posted by AustinBR View Post
    Are you going to get an electric dehumidifier or the ones that need to be changed out?
    An electric one with a 50 pint basin but a hose can be attached so it gravity feeds into the sink or wherever you want. Iím gonna hook it up and see how it does before I move the safe into the place.


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  3. #13
    Newbie

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    Over the last 15 years I have installed hundreds (probably close to 1K) of vaults into all types of flooring and sub-floor material and am considered an expert in my field. You need only use wedge anchors (with ceramic over concrete) like these

    https://www.itwredhead.com/products/...s/trubolt-plus

    without the use of any adhesives. Use the largest size that will comfortably pass through the mounting holes. You want a little wiggle room. Set up your bolts with the nuts and washers. Leave a few threads above the nut (not critical). I don't mark holes then move the vault and drill. I drill (with the hammer drill) from the inside of the vault. If you can do it this way you'll be more accurate. At the spot where you want to mount the vault use the butt of a screw driver or other tool (I use the butt of the drill bit) and tap around the area. You're listening for solid sounds. If it sounds hollow you're probably in an area where the flooring guy used mortar to build up a low spot or you're just on top of a mortar bed with a hollow spot. You can still mount here but the tile might break. Position your vault and make sure the door opens fully and nothing interferes with it's swing. Position the hammer drill bit into the center of the first hole and use short, pulsating trigger pulls to chip away at the tile's glaze. If you go full bore you'll pock up the glaze and possibly crack the tile. Drill a little deeper than the bolt from it's bottom to the bottom of the nut (again, not critical). Sweep away the dust (I don't use a vacuum because of the mess it creates when cleaning the filter). Tap your first bolt in about half way. It should be a snug fit but not resisting. If it resists you may have used too small of a bit. If it's too loose the wedge won't grab and the bolt will work up through the hole when you torque on it. Check your vault's position once again then drill the hole in the diagonal corner and repeat the process for the bolt insertion above. You're only inserting the bolts halfway or so to allow a little wiggle room should you move the vault while drilling. Drill your remaining two (or more) holes then insert your bolts as above. Pound all the bolts down then torque them. I normally use 1/2" bolts and use a 1/2" drive ratchet with the 3/4" socket to get a good grip and a feel for the amount of torque. If you're strong enough I guess you could shear off the bolt from too much torque. Just get the wedge to grab and pull. You'll know. Some guys use an impact wrench but I can't get a feel for the torque that way. Sorry to ramble on but I do this all the time and...you asked. I hope it helps you.

    p.s. The above is for ceramic over concrete. If you're drilling into ceramic over hardibacker board and wood subflooring you'll need to drill through the ceramic and backer board with the masonry bit then use a properly sized wood bit (for a lag screw) from there. The lag screw only needs to be long enough to penetrate the plywood by a couple of threads. Any more than that and your wasting material and time and you're making the mounting position more obvious as viewed from below.

  4. #14
    Banned

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBP55 View Post
    Correct, but do not forget the 2 part epoxy if you want to keep the anchors secure in the concrete.
    You don't use epoxy on wedge anchors.

    You use epoxy adhesive on chemical anchors.

  5. #15
    Banned

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBP55 View Post
    I have done hundreds in auto assembly plants and used epoxy 100% of the time. Did not want the robots to move at all while building vehicles.
    If you used wedge anchors with epoxy, and let the epoxy adhesive set before you torqued the wedge anchors down, you didn't do a very good job.

  6. #16
    La. CHP Instructor #409

    Premium Member

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    Quote Originally Posted by leadslinger972 View Post
    If you used wedge anchors with epoxy, and let the epoxy adhesive set before you torqued the wedge anchors down, you didn't do a very good job.
    I my have misspoken but You are a Funny Newbie.

  7. #17
    Banned

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBP55 View Post
    I my have misspoken but You are a Funny Newbie.
    Newbie?

    Do you have to be here for 9 years in order to be a dumbass like you?

  8. #18
    La. CHP Instructor #409

    Premium Member

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    Quote Originally Posted by leadslinger972 View Post
    Newbie?

    Do you have to be here for 9 years in order to be a dumbass like you?
    Very mature reply.

  9. #19
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBP55 View Post
    I my have misspoken but You are a Funny Newbie.
    I thought it was a compliment. It was rather funny. No need to sling a lot more than lead.

  10. #20
    Banned

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    Quote Originally Posted by FORman View Post
    I thought it was a compliment. It was rather funny. No need to sling a lot more than lead.
    Dude gave poor advice. He doesn't need to be complimenting anything.

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