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AR Barrel Nut Alignment/Spec

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    Suburbazine

    Suburbazine

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    Oct 21, 2008
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    Baton Rouge, LA
    Been fighting with my barrel nut on a Colt 6922 to get it within torque spec but still fit the gas tube. My problem is the barrel, from the factory, was only tightened to 22ft/lbs which is well outside the 30-80# range. However, that entire range falls into the space of a single tooth. 80# is just a hair too tight to pass the tube alignment tool, 30# is right in the middle of the tooth. 22# just scares me. I've got it set at a hair over 80# which should pass the tube fine but worries me as to stressing the upper, plus I rounded off a tooth in the process. I worked it back and forth repeatedly with grease and still can't rotate to torque enough.

    Thinking of finding another milspec nut and trying again.

    O45klb.jpg
     
    Bigchillin83

    Bigchillin83

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    Feb 27, 2012
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    New barrel nut would be about the only thing that I would try...torque wrench is in spec huh? You should know if it's around 80lbs lol so I'm sure it's correct, just a thought, other than that .. 80lbs wouldn't bother me, only thing I would think of is what you've done... Make sure good high temp grease, and work it loose and tight
     
    D

    DaSouthernYankee

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    Feb 2, 2016
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    Slidell, LA
    Agreed with other posters, get a lapping tool or some shims, or just torque the SOB down. As long as it has a generous amount of grease it should be fine.
    Also I have had a PSA upper that was so tight I broke a tooth off the barrel nut and bent the wrench. If memory serves I ended up cracking the upper, and having to cut the barrel nut off and buy a new one. I don't think there was any grease on it either. No idea what it was tightened to as I didn't have a torque wrench at the time. That's the first and last complete upper I ever bought.

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    jdindadell

    jdindadell

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    Feb 14, 2010
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    A new barrel nut would be my first try. I have a few hanging around as they all seem to time differently. 30ftlbs is too loose IMO...

    You can also just sand the end of the upper with some sandpaper and a piece of glass or granite = something flat to put the sandpaper on. This will remove some of ano, and you really should replace that, as you may have some issues with bare al against the steel barrel stop.

    A different barrel nut is the easiest thing.

    And if you have damaged the nut, your wrench is likely junk, or your technique really sucks. Not trying to be a dick, all wrenches are not made the same.
     
    REDLINE83

    REDLINE83

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    Sep 9, 2015
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    As mentioned, make sure you are using a torque wrench and a GOOD armorer wrench

    30 too lose in my opinion. Also use some aeroshell grease. Also make sure the torque wrench is PERPENDICULAR to the armorer tool
     
    Suburbazine

    Suburbazine

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    Oct 21, 2008
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    CAJUN83 said:
    As mentioned, make sure you are using a torque wrench and a GOOD armorer wrench

    30 too lose in my opinion. Also use some aeroshell grease. Also make sure the torque wrench is PERPENDICULAR to the armorer tool
    Click to expand...

    I’m using this contraption
    59fcd537b65fa8a147de67ce9c65d28b.jpg



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    John_

    John_

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    Your "contraption" looks good. Wheeler makes decent tools. I own a couple of theirs. Way better than that chinese knock off junk for $12. Magpull makes a really nice barrel nut tool, I have one.

    Try another barrel nut or use a proper shim. DO NOT sand or grind on the upper receiver itself. That's just plain ignorant. You will clearly remove the anodizing and possibly disrupt/alter the perpendicular machined face to bore.

    Grinding/lapping the receiver face goes into the same file as nails used for alignment and channel locks/strap wrenches for tightening the barrel nut. Oh and 1x2" piece of wood upper receiver jigs.
     
    Suburbazine

    Suburbazine

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    Oct 21, 2008
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    New Troy nut went on like a dream, lined up at 70# and fit the grip perfectly.

    8db1c2b6c940c6ffdd5cb9eb4b6f0d4e.jpg

    e0e846593ec708ee977976fb7bd92b50.jpg




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