What does bluing solution do?

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  • searspring38

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    Apr 22, 2017
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    I've got a carcano barrel that I want to re-blue. I understand that I can steam the barrel to convert the rust to black oxide, but what does the bluing solution do to the steel? Can I blue the barrel without any bluing solution? If I need a bluing solution, which brand would you recommend? Thanks.
     

    DWT

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    Wikipedia gives an excellent description of gun bluing. After you review it, you may be more interested in applying one of the spray-on coatings like Duracoat or Cerakote. If you are determined to go the bluing route, Brownell's sells everything you need.
    Good luck w. your project.
     

    leadslinger972

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    It's simply a coating created by oxidation.

    If you're attempting to restore a firearm, bluing may be necessary to be historically accurate.

    If you're not restoring a firearm, nitriding is a much better long term solution.
     

    Blue Diamond

    sportsman
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    I've got a carcano barrel that I want to re-blue. I understand that I can steam the barrel to convert the rust to black oxide, but what does the bluing solution do to the steel? Can I blue the barrel without any bluing solution? If I need a bluing solution, which brand would you recommend? Thanks.

    Birchwood-Casey makes a kit that works good. Used it to touch up and do small arms. The trick is getting your metal CLEAN AND POLISHED before you start. The more time you spend on polishing the metal the better the results.
     

    DH Vidrine

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    The best bluing process for the hobby gunsmith is the slow-rust system. No dangerous hot caustic soda is needed, only a cleaning solution and boiling water. Search the Internet for slow-rust bluing for all the information you may need. Done right it produces the most elegant and wear-resistant metal bluing finish. All the classic Parker and LC Smith double barrel shotguns were slow-rust blued.

    If you can follow a cookbook recipe you can make metal change color. It is not that hard. The real labor and skill is preparing the metal for bluing. Do not use a powered buffer. Hand polish each part to a 400 grit satin finish with no rounded corners, dished out screw holes, or wiped out lettering. Be patient, you can do it. You will be proud of the results.
     

    DH Vidrine

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    http://www.rustblue.com/

    General rust blueing instructions (individual products may vary):
    1.Use silicon carbide paper up to 320 grit to prepare the steel. If a matte finish is desired then sand/bead blast the parts. Make sure all active rust is removed. You may need to use a commercial rust remover to assist in de-rusting heavily corroded parts.
    2.Degrease with 3 washes of naptha or acetone. Then give it a bath in a warm solution of dishwashing detergent. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. Look for *sheeting* of the water on the steel and no beading. Beading means there is still oil on the surface. You don’t want any oil on it!
    3.Generally, parts not coated with Rust Blue won’t rust in the blueing process. But if you desire added protection, spray any parts you don’t want to rust with clear lacquer. You can even coat the inside of the bore with it. It removes easily when you are through with lacquer thinner.
    4.After the metal has dried, apply the bluing solution to cold metal with a 100% cotton swab. Squeeze out the swab so it is damp but not dripping. Use long even strokes with the barest of overlap. Going back over missed areas can actually remove previous color, so avoid doing that.Allow it to dry for 2 hours (this primes the metal). Re-coat, let dry, heat metal above 100 F and put in a damp cabinet* for 4-6 hours to rust, or overnight if a damp cabinet is not available and local humidity levels are above 30%. If you use a sweat box and low pressure steam ripening can occur with in an hour. Pre-heat the metal prior to introduction to the steam to prevent spotting.
    5.When a fine layer of reddish-brown rust has formed (looks like reddish-brown fuzz), remove the metal, boil for 15 minutes in deionized distilled water or steam for 10 min. Then card with 000 -0000 steel wool, degreased in naptha or acetone. The word carding means to scrub off the loose oxide. Each of these cycles is called a *pass*. Repeat as many times as you need to get the color you want. This will usually be 2-4 times. Small Parts – boil in deionized distilled water or steam with tap water suspended in a 4 qt covered saucepan for 10 minutes. Larger parts such as barrels can be boiled in special tanks available from Brownells or you can make a steam pipe apparatus** from PVC pipe and fittings obtained from a local home improvement store.
    6.When satisfied, you can apply oil, wax, lacquer or boiled linseed oil to seal the metal pores.
     

    RaleighReloader

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    Jan 30, 2015
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    As others have mentioned, there are different types of bluing processes. Most of the do-it-yourself kits will not produce the deep, rich, lustrous finish that many older guns benefitted from (back in the days when occupational health wasn't a "thing" and caustic chemicals were simply a part of the job).

    I don't know anything about the finishes on Carcano guns, but I do know that re-blue jobs will almost always lower the collectible value of the gun. Which is not a concern for many people ... but I just figured I'd mention it.

    Mike
     

    Metryshooter

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    Jul 11, 2010
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    The best bluing process for the hobby gunsmith is the slow-rust system. No dangerous hot caustic soda is needed, only a cleaning solution and boiling water. Search the Internet for slow-rust bluing for all the information you may need. Done right it produces the most elegant and wear-resistant metal bluing finish. All the classic Parker and LC Smith double barrel shotguns were slow-rust blued.

    If you can follow a cookbook recipe you can make metal change color. It is not that hard. The real labor and skill is preparing the metal for bluing. Do not use a powered buffer. Hand polish each part to a 400 grit satin finish with no rounded corners, dished out screw holes, or wiped out lettering. Be patient, you can do it. You will be proud of the results.

    A friend and I years ago did a rifle with this method. The results came out great, but for anyone attempting be forewarned it's not for impatient people. It's definitely a labor of love when done right looks really good. Not really a 'blue', more a deep bluish-black.
    If you don't have the time or the patience I've had good results with Blue Wonder which does produce a 'blue'.
    I've learned (and read) , which can't be emphasized enough, prep and careful handling are key.
     
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