Anodizing 80 percent lowers

jdindadell · Oct 5, 2018

Ok, I am sure this has been addressed before but a reasonably through search here, including using google, has not really answered my question.

I am pretty sure that I would have to have the lower anodized before milling it, so the person doing the work would not be taking a "firearm" and keeping it, then giving it back to me.

My main question, can a local gun store/smith with a ffl take a milled "100%" lower (or other al part) and anodize it? Or do I have to completely mark it appropriately with a serial and maker info before they could take possession of it to do the work?

I am looking for someone local to the Northshore to do anodizing as I really don't want to have to set myself up to do it as I really don't have enough parts.

KDerekT83 · Oct 5, 2018

pretty confident he would have to stamp it. ffl records serials, models, etc... of all firearms they take in possession and/or dispurse

Troedoff · Oct 5, 2018

It depends on the time frame of the gunsmith doing the Ano. If it is done same business day, then it does not have to be recorded. If it is kept from one business day to the next, then it has to be recorded in the A/D.

It is really not all that hard to Ano. You probably already have most of what you would need to Ano a lower. minus some AL or Ti wire. It can be done in a plastic tub with relative ease. We used to Ano paintball gun parts all the time with a battery charger. As far as dye goes it helps to get a dye specific for the application, but it can be done with other store bought dye as well. It will be type 2 Ano, but if you grow it past 1-2 mills, it is still a very durable finish, plus it looks better.

oppsImissed · Oct 5, 2018

Why anodize before milling? It will leave the trigger pocket raw. You'll still have to put a finish in there.

jdindadell · Oct 5, 2018

Good info, thanks for the replies!

I would mill after so the ano person does not have to have a ffl to handle the part. If that option presents itself, and is my only route.

I will look into home ano... One more thing to learn.

thperez1972 · Oct 5, 2018

jdindadell said:
Good info, thanks for the replies!

I would mill after so the ano person does not have to have a ffl to handle the part. If that option presents itself, and is my only route.

I will look into home ano... One more thing to learn.

While there are benefits to anodizing the inside, I would think most of the benefits would come from the outside being anodized. The outside gets beat up more than the inside should so the durability of the inside may be seen as a negligible benefit. It's aluminum so it won't rust. The inside may oxidize but that should just create a thin protective layer to really slow any further corrosion. I would think the main benefit in anodizing after the cutting would come from the durability added to the pin holes and the selector switch hole. And the benefit of aesthetics. I'm sure you already have an 80% lower but you can always buy a pre-anodized 80%.

jdindadell · Oct 6, 2018

I have done a few 80 lowers that were already ano-ed. If I could get the ones I wanted pre ano-ed I would. one less thing to worry about.

thperez1972 · Oct 6, 2018

I've not done any. I don't have a drill press. I may check out Harbor Freight. I'm sure they have a lower cost one to see if 80%'s are something else I would want to start trying.

jdindadell · Oct 6, 2018

I have a feeling if you go the drill press route you will not care for the process. A small mill really is the way to go.

jcbvh · Oct 7, 2018

There are others ways to get it black other than Anodizing.

1.) You can use Alodine for corrosion purposes [turns is a brassy color, and you really dont need to do that if your going to coat it.]

2.) Soak the 100% in something like simple green

3.) Dry it. [Compressed air]

4.) Stick it in an oven at 140 for about 30 min.

5.) Take it out, use Rustoluem Appliance Expoxy [black]; fog coat it meaning hold the lower about 15" from you until covered. Take your time.

6.) Let it sit once coated for about 15 min to offgas a bit otherwise your going to get some smoke when you bake the finish.

7.) Stick it the oven or kiln for about 1-1.2 hours at 425-450F

8.) Take it out and let it cool down.

9.) Done. Finish looks professional and it shockingly durable. This a technique used on Aks.

Just another option.

KDerekT83 · Oct 7, 2018

jdindadell said:
I have a feeling if you go the drill press route you will not care for the process. A small mill really is the way to go.

this.... Mini mill, or at least, handheld router... I used a handheld Makita router for all 6 of my 80% lowers... They aren't showroom quality finishes on the inside, but they work pretty damn well..

John_ · Oct 7, 2018

thperez1972 said:
While there are benefits to anodizing the inside, I would think most of the benefits would come from the outside being anodized. The outside gets beat up more than the inside should so the durability of the inside may be seen as a negligible benefit. It's aluminum so it won't rust. The inside may oxidize but that should just create a thin protective layer to really slow any further corrosion. I would think the main benefit in anodizing after the cutting would come from the durability added to the pin holes and the selector switch hole. And the benefit of aesthetics. I'm sure you already have an 80% lower but you can always buy a pre-anodized 80%.

Most of this is valid but the problem is raw unprotected aluminum and other metals. There is a reason why any quality AR 15 lower receiver is type 3 hard anodized for long term durability, both the exterior and interior. Aluminum and steel, exposure to rain, inclement weather, temperature extremes, salt water, and other chemicals could lead to galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals.

But if you do not plan to use/rely upon ur rifle outside in the elements..........no problem.

jdindadell · Oct 9, 2018

jcbvh said:
There are others ways to get it black other than Anodizing.

1.) You can use Alodine for corrosion purposes [turns is a brassy color, and you really dont need to do that if your going to coat it.]

2.) Soak the 100% in something like simple green

3.) Dry it. [Compressed air]

4.) Stick it in an oven at 140 for about 30 min.

5.) Take it out, use Rustoluem Appliance Expoxy [black]; fog coat it meaning hold the lower about 15" from you until covered. Take your time.

6.) Let it sit once coated for about 15 min to offgas a bit otherwise your going to get some smoke when you bake the finish.

7.) Stick it the oven or kiln for about 1-1.2 hours at 425-450F

8.) Take it out and let it cool down.

9.) Done. Finish looks professional and it shockingly durable. This a technique used on Aks.

Just another option.

I wonder how the Rustoleum appliance epoxy compares to Brownells Alumahyde 2? I have a buddy who has been using it quite a bit to coat ray and ano-ed AL parts for his various AR builds. He swear by it, but he does not really have alot of experience coating stuff.

As a little back story, I own an auto body shop, and have painted cars since 01. I actually started in 92, but was mainly a prep guy and general shop bit@h. I have painted dozens of aks and other guns using auto epoxy primer, thinned with acetone and sprayed in a heated booth. I will give the rattle can epoxy a try, no harm and I can see how it performs compared to my preferred method.

And simple green is hands down the best product for cleaning a firearm prior to blasting and coating. I use a large turkey pan and spray simple green on straight (do not cut it with water, it will not work) and scrub it with a nylon cleaning brush. Rinse completely with fresh water and repeat. After the 2nd rinse, blow dry with compressed air. This has worked great, even on oily yugo aks (they are the greasiest, by far). I clean before blasting in order to limit the contaminants in my blasting cabinet.

jdindadell · Oct 9, 2018

KDerekT83 said:
this.... Mini mill, or at least, handheld router... I used a handheld Makita router for all 6 of my 80% lowers... They aren't showroom quality finishes on the inside, but they work pretty damn well..

I looked at the router options and they do seem to provide a decent solution, but unless you happen to have a router and plan to do a few I feel the cost is too high. Once finished with the jig you could sell it, and likely recoup most of the cost. And then use the router to do woodworking projects?! The mini mill is just so handy, I have used mine to do all kinds of stuff, just finished a 80 percent 10/22 receiver.

thperez1972 · Oct 9, 2018

jdindadell said:
I looked at the router options and they do seem to provide a decent solution, but unless you happen to have a router and plan to do a few I feel the cost is too high. Once finished with the jig you could sell it, and likely recoup most of the cost. And then use the router to do woodworking projects?! The mini mill is just so handy, I have used mine to do all kinds of stuff, just finished a 80 percent 10/22 receiver.

It also looks to be a pretty hefty investment to try out 80% lowers. I have no doubt I would fine other uses for it but it's one of those things I have yet to need so far. Unless I'm looking in the wrong places. Even at Harbor Freight they run $700. I do see a Drill Press Milling Vise for under $100. That and a Drill Press may serve in the place of the mill and com in under $200.

I don't mind paying for quality and something I would use on the regular but as a hobby, that's a steep upstart cost despite the versatility. Plus I would have a heck of a time getting a $700 purchase for gun stuff approved through Household 6. $200 falls more into the petty cash realm, generating some eye roll (do you really need more guns) but requiring no approval.

(6 is the military designation for the senior officer of a unit; e.g., Sapper 6, Geronimo 6, etc. Household 6 usually designates someone's wife.)

jdindadell · Oct 10, 2018

I just looked at the prices and they have gone up since the last time I looked. While I would still say a mini mill is a great tool to have, paying close to a grand is a bit steep.

Looked at the the 5d Tactical jig in detail and it does seem well thought out.

Figure 260 for the multiplatform setup for ar9/15 and ar10

and 130 for a dewalt router

and 55 bucks for the tooling kit

plus another 27 for a spare endmill (this is a bit steep, although it is carbide)

So $472 bucks... If you have a router (that will work) it will be less.

Not sure if I would spend that money, but these do sell reasonably well 2nd hand. So maybe you only lose 50-60 bucks. But that would be based on buying everything, milling the number of lowers you plan to use "forever" then moving it on. I generally dont buy tools unless I can justify keeping them. My mini mill has been very useful and was my intro to machining. I have 2 other vertical mills, big ones, but the little guy is handy for the smaller jobs.

All that said I would love to try this jig out, so if anyone has one and wants it tested before they use it, I can bring my own lowers and and give it a whirl, feel free to hit me up.

John_ · Oct 10, 2018

Why when you can buy stripped 100% lowers for $45 all day long right now. I just don't see the logic in it.

John_ · Oct 10, 2018

Unless ur a convicted felon or an illegal alien and cannot legally purchase a rifle.

But then there is always the used market/classifieds.

oppsImissed · Oct 10, 2018

jcbvh said:
There are others ways to get it black other than Anodizing.

1.) You can use Alodine for corrosion purposes [turns is a brassy color, and you really dont need to do that if your going to coat it.]

2.) Soak the 100% in something like simple green

3.) Dry it. [Compressed air]

4.) Stick it in an oven at 140 for about 30 min.

5.) Take it out, use Rustoluem Appliance Expoxy [black]; fog coat it meaning hold the lower about 15" from you until covered. Take your time.

6.) Let it sit once coated for about 15 min to offgas a bit otherwise your going to get some smoke when you bake the finish.

7.) Stick it the oven or kiln for about 1-1.2 hours at 425-450F

8.) Take it out and let it cool down.

9.) Done. Finish looks professional and it shockingly durable. This a technique used on Aks.

Just another option.

This produces a very hard durable finish. I've done it many times.

oppsImissed · Oct 10, 2018

John_ said:
Why when you can buy stripped 100% lowers for $45 all day long right now. I just don't see the logic in it.

Why? Cause I can have it engraved the way I want it. The serial number I want on it. Or I can leave it blank and **** off liberals !!

Anodizing 80 percent lowers

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