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  1. #1
    oldbie

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    Gun safe installation

    I'm moving a sheet metal gunsafe into a different closet tomorrow (long story.... and a real safe isn't an option right now. this is just to keep the kids out more than anything).

    I can screw into the studs easy enough but... Anybody mount differently? 2x4's across the back wall? Etc... I can mount into the slab (and will but not immediately) but I'm looking for alternatives.
    "Be water, my friend..."

  2. #2
    oldbie

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    Anyone? <crickets chirping....>
    "Be water, my friend..."

  3. #3
    Marksman

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    Any anchoring is better than none; mine is screwed to studs

  4. #4
    Marksman

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    I had one where the holes in the back of the safe didn't line up with the studs. I screwed two 2x4 across the wall and screwed the safe to the 2x4's. I used screws instead of nails, they are harder to pull out.

  5. #5
    Marksman

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    X-10 on the screws the longer you can the better. Just like when I used to install new deadbolts I used 3in screws in the strike plate to get into the 2X4 studs instead of the 1in that comes with most locks.
    Wingate

  6. #6
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry J View Post
    I had one where the holes in the back of the safe didn't line up with the studs. I screwed two 2x4 across the wall and screwed the safe to the 2x4's. I used screws instead of nails, they are harder to pull out.
    I did same ... just make sure you don't slide keys or anything else off the top of it (between it and the wall).
    This nation will remain the land of the free only so long as it is the home of the brave!

  7. #7
    Expert in the field of wife avoidance

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    Lowes sells a 4'x2'x2" solid wood board. I screwed that to the studs with 3.5" countersunk screws, then used lag bolts through the back of the safe to attach to the board. I also have file cabinets and a heavy desk pushed up against the side, in a small bedroom we used as an office. Not as secure as bolted to concrete, but while the alarm is going off and the police are headed over, that is a lot of stuff to get out of the way. I'm hoping time would be on my side.
    USPSA #A74215


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  8. #8
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by LACamper View Post
    Anyone? <crickets chirping....>
    Put a dead bolt on the closet door and lock it, Hide the keys.
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say, For Your Tomorrow, We Gave Our's Today"

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  9. #9
    oldbie

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gator 45/70 View Post
    Put a dead bolt on the closet door and lock it, Hide the keys.
    Wish I could. Its a 6' sliding door.

    Lowes sells a 4'x2'x2" solid wood board. I screwed that to the studs with 3.5" countersunk screws, then used lag bolts through the back of the safe to attach to the board. I also have file cabinets and a heavy desk pushed up against the side, in a small bedroom we used as an office. Not as secure as bolted to concrete, but while the alarm is going off and the police are headed over, that is a lot of stuff to get out of the way. I'm hoping time would be on my side.
    That's a good idea. I was thinking about some pieces of 1x6 behind it but this is better. Time again is the issue. I have two LEO's nearby (one retired, once working nights), 150 lbs of dogs, a good monitored alarm, and a bunch of paranoid nosy old ladies close!

    I saw a local gun shop's back room once. He had the same kind of steel box safes but had angle iron jb welded and bolted to the front with padlocks. It would make peeling the safe a lot harder. I've seen the videos of the less expensive real gun safes being peeled in a matter of minutes. I'm not sure they're worth the extra expense. A 1000 pound safe is not in the budget nor would it fit where it needs to go. Not to mention my gun collection isn't extensive enough to justify that... yet.
    Last edited by LACamper; December 30th, 2018 at 08:31 PM.
    "Be water, my friend..."

  10. #10
    Newbie

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    I screwed to the floor

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