80 % lowers

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  • BrandonPle

    Gunlover
    Rating - 94.7%
    18   1   0
    Aug 22, 2012
    165
    18
    Watson
    Time for some coffee talk.
    I'll give you a topic.
    80% Lowaz (a.r 10 & 15)
    Who have you ordered from w no issues?
    I've got my router xx and drill press. Just wanted to get some feedback.
    What's the good , the bad , the ugly ??
    Maybe some tips that you've experienced while tinkering.

    Talk amongst yourselves !
     
    Last edited:

    KDerekT83

    Hobbyist
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    I use 80%Arms Easy Jig, a Makita Router, and a Bench-Vise. RightToBear.com has nicely forged basic lowers if you just want something simple. There are numerous websites with custom forged/billet lowers. If you want to do a all-out custom with engravings, and pics on the magwell, www.atomicengraving.com is owned by Mike Fiks and it's a one man show. The guy is definitely am artist in the craft.

    Just make sure to follow the directions for the Jig to the T, and take your time. Do the best you can to avoid chatter with your router, and stop periodically to let your fingers/wrist rest and clean up the shavings. The cleaner you keep the area the cleaner your product will be.

    The top 2 pictured are 80% lowers. One is a stamped SBR .300AAC. Both function amazingly and have almost 1000rnds through them.

    Best single thing I personally can advise you though man, STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP PARTS! ONLY GET TOP BRAND STUFF....
     

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    jdindadell

    Not Banned!!!
    Rating - 100%
    267   0   1
    Feb 14, 2010
    4,200
    63
    Slidell
    Just remember, your 80% lower is not as good as a.....

    I have the 5d tactical router jig, use a makita router with it. Use plenty of WD40 when cutting, wd40 is probably the best cutting fluid to use with aluminum (that is sold locally, I am sure there is a better product sold by someone somewhere)

    When I cut I set the depth to half of the recommended max. And just do 2 passes instead of one. This is alot easier to control, the bit stays cooler, and does not really add much time over doing one slower pass.

    I use a shop vac with a cyclone separator to evac the chips. (do not run a straight shop vac as aluminum dust can cause some pretty amizing fires, wd 40 is flammable and shop vacs generally have metal fans in them.)

    I also have real machine equipment, old school no dro manual machines. The jig is alot easier and quicker than by hand on a manual machine. Getting a good hold on the lower is the main issue, and since the jig references off the takedown pin hole and extension thread it stays true to the receiver.

    Make sure that the front pin is tight, with no side to side wobble. I had a cheaper receiver than had some slack there and it caused chatter on the bit when cutting and left a visually poor surface finish. Lower was still 100 percent usable, just a thing to keep in mind when setting up the jig on a lower.

    Juggernaut tactical make a very nice 80% lower. I have cut a bunch of cast, forged and billet lowers. No issues.

    I would suggest getting a 25 dollar poly lower from eparmory to try 1st, the plastic is very easy on the bits and you will not damage anything if you make a mistake. Failing that, just buy a cheap aluminum lower and cut your teeth on that. I would not suggest using a nice lower on your 1st attempt.
     

    1968

    New Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Feb 1, 2020
    3
    1
    LEAGUE CITY
    I just bought a jig and a 80% lower and the threaded hole in the buffer tower does not look centered which would make the fire control pocket off since the jig centers itself with the buffer tube tower and the front take down ears. Has anybody ever seen this and will it make a difference if the fire control pocket is off by a little. I am going to some measuring on it first before I do anything to make sure but by eyeballing it, it definitely looks offcenter.
     

    KDerekT83

    Hobbyist
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    I just bought a jig and a 80% lower and the threaded hole in the buffer tower does not look centered which would make the fire control pocket off since the jig centers itself with the buffer tube tower and the front take down ears. Has anybody ever seen this and will it make a difference if the fire control pocket is off by a little. I am going to some measuring on it first before I do anything to make sure but by eyeballing it, it definitely looks offcenter.

    Post some pics. What lower is it? If you make any mistakes in the fire control pocket, it can cause possible issues. To deep and safety won't catch the trigger and work properly. To shallow and the safety won't engage at all. You mill to much off on side, and you can cut into the channel for the bolt catch. Cut much on other side and you can cut into channel for the safety selector. So yes you have to be spot on.
     
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 17, 2020
    20
    1
    New Orleans, LA
    My friend and I just split the price buying the Easy Jig Gen 2 Multi-Platform. Got a15 and a10 raw billets from American Made Tactical on sale. My friend has the router but we bought the tool kit with all the drill-bits. First time ever doing anything like this but I certainly have the free time these days. And the receivers get shipped to my house. I can keep my social distancing!
     

    BrandonPle

    Gunlover
    Rating - 94.7%
    18   1   0
    Aug 22, 2012
    165
    18
    Watson
    Got a15 and a10 raw billets from American Made Tactical on sale.

    And the receivers get shipped to my house. I can keep my social distancing![/QUOTE]

    I've used several AMT uppers with no issues . All 3 have about 1k thru em each , never had an issue .
    So I'm certain I'll be trying a few of their lowers .

    I'm planning to get an 5D multi Cal jig , I'd have it by now if not for da Corona !
    I do residential plumbing repairs , it slammed to a stop pretty quick .
     

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