Yet another what AR to buy post

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  • Ehssux

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    Mar 31, 2020
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    I’m new to AR’s (and rifles in general) and I was looking for some pointers on what to buy. Being my first one I’d rather not build it.

    I know a better rifle will be pricey but I’d like to eventually get into a few local competitions for the fun of it.

    What recommendations would you guys have, what would I need/ not need, what are good off the shelf brands that I could run in 3gun after getting comfortable with.

    Thanks
     

    Bigchillin83

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    If you just want an ar that’s great, but if you want one for 3gun I would go to some matches as a guest and see what they run and how they run and they can tell you what works the best for them... everybody is diff and shooting styles are diff
     

    dwr461

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    I’ve shot quite a few three Gun matches. The only caliber to consider is 5.56. Many competitors are going to 223 Wylde due its abilities with using either 5.56 or .223 rem.

    However ultimately for a casual competitor just get a quality AR15 in either of those calibers and put a 1 to 4 or 6 or 8 optics on it.

    You can spend thousands building one for competition.

    Dave


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    Ehssux

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    What is your budget?

    Is your primary use 3 gun or defense?

    Budget would be around $2000-$2500 for the gun and set up.

    Mainly 3 gun/putting holes in paper, it could be used if the zombies come into town. But I keep other firearms for around the house/on me.
     

    kcinnick

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    Budget would be around $2000-$2500 for the gun and set up.

    Mainly 3 gun/putting holes in paper, it could be used if the zombies come into town. But I keep other firearms for around the house/on me.

    If I was spending that much on a game gun, I would have to look at JP rifles.
     

    DAVE_M

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    Budget would be around $2000-$2500 for the gun and set up.

    Mainly 3 gun/putting holes in paper, it could be used if the zombies come into town. But I keep other firearms for around the house/on me.

    If your only use will be for competitive shooting, you can pick up a decent rifle around $1000-1200 and spend another $600-1000 on a quality optic.

    BCM, SIONICS, and SOLGW all have more than capable rifles in the $1000-1300 range. You could top it with a Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 in a solid mount for another $6-700.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If I was spending that much on a game gun, I would have to look at JP rifles.

    For someone unfamiliar with AR’s that’s not the best choice in the world. He’s also looking to add an optic, so that limits his options.
     

    Csparnecht

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    I am aware that you said you rather not build it, but putting an ar15 together is extremely easy. If you spend 20 mins on youtube then you can find many videos that show the step by step process. The hardest part is probably the trigger, but if you got a drop in then its line it up and put in the 2 pins. Putting it together piece by piece will net you a better rifle at a lower price. Even if you get something more high end you will be replacing brand new parts that you paid for to get it "just right". If you are interested in trying to build I can help you with sourcing parts and knowing where to spend and where to save.
     

    DAVE_M

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    I am aware that you said you rather not build it, but putting an ar15 together is extremely easy. If you spend 20 mins on youtube then you can find many videos that show the step by step process. The hardest part is probably the trigger, but if you got a drop in then its line it up and put in the 2 pins. Putting it together piece by piece will net you a better rifle at a lower price. Even if you get something more high end you will be replacing brand new parts that you paid for to get it "just right". If you are interested in trying to build I can help you with sourcing parts and knowing where to spend and where to save.

    1. AR's are very easy to put together, by comparison.
    2. For the love of God, do not learn how to assemble a rifle from YouTube. The majority of people on YouTube have no idea what they are doing.
    3. Drop in cassette style triggers have their own set of problems. If it's a serious use rifle, it's best to avoid them.
    4. Assembling a rifle slowly is a great way to save money, but is only feasible if you know what you're doing and have the time to wait.
    5. If you buy a quality rifle, it's doubtful that you will begin to strip the rifle of major components.

    While AR-15's are fairly simple, they are not legos. If you do not have an understanding of how the rifle operates and do not have the tools to properly assemble one, then you are better off buying a complete rifle. Hell, the headspace gauges I just picked up cost more than most people spend on a budget barrel. Couple that with torque wrenches, jigs, bench blocks, punches, lubricants and greases, gauges, and the time spent learning how to assemble the rifle properly is probably far more than one person is willing to invest for a single rifle. I was once in the "build don't buy" group, but I put together some really questionable rifles. I even assembled something with 100% discount/budget parts and sold it before I finished it, because I realized that you truly do get what you pay for and there is a ton of junk floating around.
     

    shrxfn

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    You could buy a brand name upper with the specs you want and then build your own lower which reduces the tools needed to just a few common ones and then build it yourself. I have put together a few lowers with just a cheap punch set from Harbor Freight and some tools from around the house. You do have to be careful with the small spings and detents but if you take your time it is not as bad. I did eventually get a tool specifically for the front pivot pin as it was a PITA but built 2 or 3 without it and didn't die.
     

    DAVE_M

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    You could buy a brand name upper with the specs you want and then build your own lower which reduces the tools needed to just a few common ones and then build it yourself. I have put together a few lowers with just a cheap punch set from Harbor Freight and some tools from around the house. You do have to be careful with the small spings and detents but if you take your time it is not as bad. I did eventually get a tool specifically for the front pivot pin as it was a PITA but built 2 or 3 without it and didn't die.

    At a minimum, you still should have punches, a vise, vise block, torque wrench, and a castle nut wrench.
     

    Cheesy Lasagna

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    Kennah!
    Aeroshell 64 is the new designation for 33MS. People were confusing 33 and 33MS.

    But yes, that’s one thing you will need to assemble uppers properly.

    Thanks for the update.
    I learned this a while back.
    But it is definitely in the AR build bible.
     

    DAVE_M

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    Thanks for the update.
    I learned this a while back.
    But it is definitely in the AR build bible.

    33 and 33MS/64 are compatible. The only difference is that 33MS/64 has 5% Molybdenum Disulphide added. It’s the reason why 33MS/64 have that metallic grey color.
     

    AustinBR

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    33 and 33MS/64 are compatible. The only difference is that 33MS/64 has 5% Molybdenum Disulphide added. It’s the reason why 33MS/64 have that metallic grey color.

    And this is why I don't build ARs. Right over my head :confused:
     

    Cheesy Lasagna

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    Kennah!
    33 and 33MS/64 are compatible. The only difference is that 33MS/64 has 5% Molybdenum Disulphide added. It’s the reason why 33MS/64 have that metallic grey color.

    Wasn’t slamming you.
    I learned about 33MS a while ago.
    I’m older than I want to accept.

    Still have more than I’ll ever need. (A little goes a long way.)
    Had no idea it was redesignated 64.
    Seems silly that folks couldn’t disambiguate between 33 and 33 MS.
    But then again, not much surprises me any more.
     
    Last edited:

    DAVE_M

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    Wasn’t slamming you.

    Huh? I didn't see your comment as offensive.

    I learned about 33MS a while ago.
    I’m older than I want to accept.

    Still have more than I’ll ever need. (A little goes a long way.)
    Had no idea it was redesignated 64.
    Seems silly that folks couldn’t disambiguate between 33 and 33 MS.
    But then again, not much surprises me any more.

    I bought a tube of 64 and parted it out. I picked up some small plastic makeup containers on Amazon that were 0.5 oz each, if I recall. Worked great to sort some out and give it to whoever needed some. A full tube will last a lifetime building AR-15's, but you can imagine how fast that tube gets used on aircraft.

    I know the properties of 33MS/64 and what its uses are, but I've never found anything that specifically designated 33. Since they are compatible and the molybdenum disulphide shouldn't hurt anything, I think Shell was pushing for people to go to 64 as a "new" grease.
     

    Cheesy Lasagna

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    Kennah!
    I bought a tube of 64 and parted it out. I picked up some small plastic makeup containers on Amazon that were 0.5 oz each, if I recall. Worked great to sort some out and give it to whoever needed some. A full tube will last a lifetime building AR-15's, but you can imagine how fast that tube gets used on aircraft.

    I know the properties of 33MS/64 and what its uses are, but I've never found anything that specifically designated 33. Since they are compatible and the molybdenum disulphide shouldn't hurt anything, I think Shell was pushing for people to go to 64 as a "new" grease.

    Typical corporate sales angle.
    Makes sense.
     
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