Air Conditioning Question?????

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  • Nolacopusmc

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    OK, along the lines of my wall/ ceiling project, i am trying to price what the cost would be to cool the whole damn place.

    the area I am talking about is:

    26'Dx 32' wide and has 14' ceinings. the cubic feet is 11,648. According to a internet AC cakluclatoir thing, I need about 20,000 BTU. When I did a quick search, it listed 20K BTU window units. That seemed a little small to me.

    Any AC experts have a clue?
     

    Dave328

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    My garage is 45' X 24' with 13' ceiling. Instead of the added expense of running central air, I put in a Kenmore 25,000 BTU window unit. It gets the garage downright chilly within 10-15 minutes after a full day of heating. By comparison, a 20K may be just right for your room. However, you can't have too many BTU's IMHO. ;)

    Dave
     

    nola_

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    I'll ask my dad tomorrow. he's done AC for 30+ years.

    how may people will regularly be in this room to account for body heat?
     
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    Nolacopusmc

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    My garage is 45' X 24' with 13' ceiling. Instead of the added expense of running central air, I put in a Kenmore 25,000 BTU window unit. It gets the garage downright chilly within 10-15 minutes after a full day of heating. By comparison, a 20K may be just right for your room. However, you can't have too many BTU's IMHO. ;)

    Dave

    What did that cost ya?
     

    kcinnick

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    Can anyone recomend a unit for a 23X19 w/8ft ceilings, I am not looking for super cool indoor like temps but I don't want the machine running 100% either.
     

    BOSS302

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    Personally, I would run 2 smaller units over 1 large one. A couple of 15k BTU Kenmores cool our 2400sqft barn quite nicely.

    ETA: There are actually 3 15K units at our barn.
     
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    Bill

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    We have an enclosed patio / sunroom addition (14x28) near completion right now. I asked the contractor about AC. He said the formula was 10btu per square foot +3000 btu. The room is 400 sq.ft., so by his calculations I need 7000btu. He said the 10,000 would work fine. I imagine this formula is for 8' ceilings. Higher ceilings may be different.

    I really want to have the central unit ducted into this room, but for now I decided to get a 10,000 btu window unit for now. I can add the central air later. + the window unit can be plugged into my generator and we'll have at least 1 cold room during the next hurricane. The window unit will be framed into the back wall so it won't look bad either.
     

    Nolacopusmc

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    Is there any reason why I should/cannot use a window unit without putting it in a window? If i place it on a stand and run a hose for the run off, shouldn't it work just the same?
     

    Witness

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    Is there any reason why I should/cannot use a window unit without putting it in a window? If i place it on a stand and run a hose for the run off, shouldn't it work just the same?

    In order to understand how air conditioning works, it is necessary to understand several basic laws about the flow of heat. An air conditioner does not cool the air, but rather, removes the heat from a confined space.

    The law of entropy states that all things must eventually come to the same temperature

    It can get confusing quick, and i could go on for days. The point is, you must have a window.
    by window i mean, at the very least, a hole in the wall
     
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    Nolacopusmc

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    In order to understand how air conditioning works, it is necessary to understand several basic laws about the flow of heat. An air conditioner does not cool the air, but rather, removes the heat from a confined space.

    The law of entropy states that all things must eventually come to the same temperature

    It can get confusing quick, and i could go on for days. The point is, you must have a window.
    by window i mean, at the very least, a hole in the wall

    Gotcha,. Thanks
     

    Dave328

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    Is there any reason why I should/cannot use a window unit without putting it in a window? If i place it on a stand and run a hose for the run off, shouldn't it work just the same?

    Stand by the outside of a running window unit. That is hot air blowing out past the condensor. That needs to go outside, not right back into the room you're trying to cool off.
     

    smith625

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    Nola my shop is 40 by 32 and i bought from lowes a 25000 btu window unit and it is fine, and thats with ceiling in only about half and no insulation. If you can get the humidity out you will be satisfied. I think i paid 399.00.
     

    jimdana1942

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    Too many BTU's beyond what you really need will not evaporate enough moisture out of the air and the cooling won't be effective and it will be clammy and damp.

    You have to take in to account how much window area you have and the insulation you have. 20,000 might do if you have good insulation and not too many windows. If you think your insul. might be mediocre then it wouldn't hurt to go with a 22 or 24000 BTU.

    There are a number of variables but don't go over too much with your BTU's, and try to not go below what you really need.
     

    LACamper

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    Jimdana's not kidding about the overcooled problem. Our house is overcooled (4 tons in a 1700 sq ft house, 8 ft ceilings). It stays damp. We're having a problem w/ condensation also from the vents. Don't do it. (PS we'll fix it eventually, we just need to enclose the carport and that'll add enough sq feet to solve the problem).

    Most of those formulas assume modern insulation and seals plus 1/2" sheetrock and an overhead attic. That's probably not the case in your garage, not is the person count average. I think I'd vote for several smaller window units spread around the room. That way you can run only what you need, plus distribution will be better.
     
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