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  1. #11
    Donít troll me bro!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MOTOR51 View Post
    Chop that thing with a dull hacksaw and rock on lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Haha! If this was the Zombie pockylipps you know I would!
    Doesnít play well with TROLLS...

  2. #12
    Donít troll me bro!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Abear View Post
    Use a pipe cutter and ring the barrel a couple of times for a straight line, the cut right past the mask, finish up with a grinder to mark
    Yup
    Post #1

    I actually have one by Rigid that cuts stainless but no reason to try it when I have a chop saw.
    Doesnít play well with TROLLS...

  3. #13
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Abear View Post
    Use a pipe cutter and ring the barrel a couple of times for a straight line, the cut right past the mask, finish up with a grinder to mark
    Quote Originally Posted by Magdump View Post
    Yup
    Post #1

    I actually have one by Rigid that cuts stainless but no reason to try it when I have a chop saw.
    That sounds great for a straight barrel but a pipe cutter is going to want to walk down (path of least resistance) a tapered barrel and try to create a spiral inside of a circle. You might apply enough pressure to the pipecutter and make it cut straight. I’ve never tried it.

  4. #14
    Donít troll me bro!

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    Letís chop a shotgun barrel

    Quote Originally Posted by Bangswitch View Post
    That sounds great for a straight barrel but a pipe cutter is going to want to walk down (path of least resistance) a tapered barrel and try to create a spiral inside of a circle. You might apply enough pressure to the pipecutter and make it cut straight. I’ve never tried it.
    I haven’t taken a micrometer to the length of barrel that I removed, but I’m pretty sure there’s either no external taper or not enough to make any difference at the section that I cut. I understand the principle but don’t think it would be an issue here. I can try my Rigid on the section that I cut and see what’s what tho. For what it’s worth, I have seen some cutters spiral, as you say, on harder material that is perfectly uniform.
    As I mentioned before, a tubing cutter would make a good guide for cutting, but considering the method it uses to cut, I’m not sure I’d want to make the cut with one even if it would do the job, due to the deforming it would likely cause at the cut.

    EDIT!!
    I can’t believe how easy it cut this barrel. I rung the barrel about 50 times or less while turning the knob about a quarter to half turn every couple rounds and it went right through with very little effort. As predicted, there is a build up of steel that creates a raised lip in and outside the barrel. This could easily be removed with a little hand trimming as suggested earlier, I like my method for ease and uniformity. Also, this particular cutter has a hardened cutting wheel intended for stainless and other steel tubing, but as easily as it made the cut, I have no doubt that lesser cutters might also get the job done.
    Anyway, no doubt about that being a square cut.


    Last edited by Magdump; July 29th, 2020 at 08:56 AM.
    Doesnít play well with TROLLS...

  5. #15
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Abear View Post
    Use a pipe cutter and ring the barrel a couple of times for a straight line, the cut right past the mask, finish up with a grinder to mark
    This is what I did . Bought a brand new, good quality , pipe cutter ( I asked a plumber for a good brand name) the cutter was very sharp and hard and hadn't been dulled by any use .
    Wrapped masking tape around barrel so wheels wouldn't mark the barrel and very slowly made very light cuts all the way around until the cutter cut through the barrel .
    Chamfered the inside and outside of the barrel , smoothed up cut with a fine flat file and finished up with wet-or-dry papers and cold blue .
    The new Pipe Cutter did a nice job and didn't require a lathe or expensive equipment .
    Gary
    Last edited by gwpercle; August 3rd, 2020 at 05:51 PM.

  6. #16
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Magdump View Post
    I haven’t taken a micrometer to the length of barrel that I removed, but I’m pretty sure there’s either no external taper or not enough to make any difference at the section that I cut. I understand the principle but don’t think it would be an issue here. I can try my Rigid on the section that I cut and see what’s what tho. For what it’s worth, I have seen some cutters spiral, as you say, on harder material that is perfectly uniform.
    As I mentioned before, a tubing cutter would make a good guide for cutting, but considering the method it uses to cut, I’m not sure I’d want to make the cut with one even if it would do the job, due to the deforming it would likely cause at the cut.

    EDIT!!
    I can’t believe how easy it cut this barrel. I rung the barrel about 50 times or less while turning the knob about a quarter to half turn every couple rounds and it went right through with very little effort. As predicted, there is a build up of steel that creates a raised lip in and outside the barrel. This could easily be removed with a little hand trimming as suggested earlier, I like my method for ease and uniformity. Also, this particular cutter has a hardened cutting wheel intended for stainless and other steel tubing, but as easily as it made the cut, I have no doubt that lesser cutters might also get the job done.
    Anyway, no doubt about that being a square cut.


    Nice that’s about as good a one could ask for a lathe would we the only way I see improving uniformity.

  7. #17
    enthusiast

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    I have a spare maverick 88 barrel some where in my house..... Humm...
    Stephen

  8. #18
    Not Banned!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bangswitch View Post
    That sounds great for a straight barrel but a pipe cutter is going to want to walk down (path of least resistance) a tapered barrel and try to create a spiral inside of a circle. You might apply enough pressure to the pipe cutter and make it cut straight. I’ve never tried it.
    If you are cutting on a mild taper you can use tape to build up the smaller "side" of the taper so that the pipe cutter can "track" true. Metal HVAC tape is handy for this as it does not squish.

    I have used a pipe cutter with great result to mark shotgun barrels, then used a hacksaw just past the line, and then filed up to the line to get a nice square end. Lightly chamfered the inside and outside in the same manner as magdump mentioned.

    This only works on non vent rib barrels, of course. I have removed the vent ribs on many shotgun barrels, not too bad of a job.

    I have also used a pipe cutter to trim down the mag tubes on shotguns, and to trim down those plus 5 extensions down to match specific length barrels. Pipe cutters work well on tubes, just be mindful that excess pressure may slightly shrink the tube at the cut area.
    "These Rocky Mountains aren't very rocky. Yeah, that John Denver is full of SH**!"

  9. #19
    CoonAss

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    Here is my 870 I chopped in a chop saw to 18.25Ē just beyond the rib after the 18Ē minimum. I had a local machine shop bore and tap it to accept the factory choke.

    https://imgur.com/a/akZq2P2
    Jason Ellis show on Faction Sirius/XM
    Red Dragons

  10. #20
    Donít troll me bro!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 3fifty7 View Post
    Here is my 870 I chopped in a chop saw to 18.25* just beyond the rib after the 18* minimum. I had a local machine shop bore and tap it to accept the factory choke.

    https://imgur.com/a/akZq2P2
    Oh yeah! That looks like a pretty decent tractor gun. We had an old beat up savage Stevens pump that brought home a lotta cottontail and so forth come bush-hogging day. Had a scabbard mounted on the hood that worked out well.
    Doesnít play well with TROLLS...

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