I have it set up at the 1 to 2 o'clock position right behind the openings of the flash hider. With just the flash hider, the barrel shadow is down to the left. With the Dear Air Pyro, the shadow gets a little longer. And if I put on a suppressor, the shadow grows quite a bit. I don't know Streamlight's official rating as far as concussion resistance but I've not have any issues with them so far. The top is a 12.5* barrel and the bottom is a 16* barrel. I know you said SBR but I have a similar setup and placement for both.
My most fired rifle is my duty rifle that is an M4 style so the light is no where near the muzzle. With the light set up like you have, is the light covered in carbon after a magazine or is it useable for a good while?
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Subscribed for info. I'm looking at the IWC mlok mounts. Just trying to figure out if I need the SBR or the standard version. Ill be putting this on a 11.5 upper with a FSP and a Centurion carbine cut-out rail....light tucked somewhere around/under a Steiner DBALa3....then I get to figure out where the buttons go. (Modbutton lite, hot button, or Taps? Hmmm)
Are you going with the mlok rail or the pic rail? I looked at the modbutton lite and the hot button. I went with the hot button because the modbutton lite is momentary on only. Is it safe to assume you're going with Surefire or Modlite for your light? I already had a couple of Streamlight HLX's and the hot button is Surefire only but I grabbed a tailcap adaptor from Arisaka and I can now put a Surefire tailcap on a Streamlight.
Mine is the same. I don’t run the bezel any further than the first opening in the muzzle device, suppressed or unsuppressed. I’ll live with the shadow if it means my light isn’t hanging way off the handguard.
My grippy grip grip
This is about the jist of it. There's no "right" answer, just individual user preference. Some guys prefer to hang their light way off the handguard to reduce shadow, but that creates its own challenges (increased chance of damaging light, muzzle blast if not running supressed). Another consideration is how far outboard the light sits. The super streamlined mounts that really tuck the light into the rail are nice, but they really exacerbate the shadow issue.
If you give us some more details on your exact rifle set up I'm sure we could make some specific suggestions.
I have the mlok centurion rail in route. I currently have a hlx but my new upper will have a modlite. The taps switch may be the best option for me since im running a laser.
American defense sent us a preproduction Dbal I2 combo mount. It tucks a SF or modlite nicely and is QD. They are also coming out with this for the Dbal a3 so that has my attention considering I have one.
It’s a 10.5* with Mlok rails. I currently have it on an arisaka inline mount. I was mainly curious if anyone has placed the light even with the muzzle device and what the results were. I also was just checking out how the masses mount their lights to see if I liked any other way.
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Even though my muzzle devices are flash hiders, they are both timed so the mark on the Dead Air suppressor indexes at the top like it does on their muzzle brake. It happens that one of the prongs of the flash hider is between the light and the barrel. I don't know if it makes as much of a difference in real life as it does in my head but the concussion and carbon have to travel around the prong to get to the light head.
I think mine is the same way by accident. I have a SF flash hider though. While we are talking SBRs, is this what is considered a Govt profile due to it being thicker up front?
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Yes. Back in the day, the marines used to test their barrels to make sure they were straight but the rod wouldn't always make it through the barrel. They figured the barrels must have gotten bent. Since the rod stopped around the bayonet lug, they assumed the barrel was weak in that area and the marines were bending the barrels during bayonet training. So they stiffened up the front part of the barrels by making them thicker. They later realized it was a burr from when the gas port was drilled that was causing to tool to hang up in the original barrels.