Cable steering on outboard?

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  • cnodie1

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    Ok folks, second outboard question in a week, it must be getting close to summer. I am currently refurbing my little cajun special to make it a more comfortable ride for myself and I ran into a road block.
    It has a side console for steering and not only does my 240 lbs make for an awkward lean while riding, my knees are blocking the steering wheel enough to were I have to out my legs off at an odd angle to even drive. So my solution is to make a small center console with more room for my gangly legs. While working out how to move in all around in my head I realized I have never messed with hydraulic lines before and will have to remove an end from either the steering wheel side or the motor side to run it. My question is what am I getting myself into? I assume there is some type of pressure valve like on air compressor lines which will prevent the fluid from escaping but I hate to take the chance. I will be home to take some pictures in about an hour to make it more clear but does anyone have any experience connecting and disconnecting the steering lines?
     
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    MyTFAL

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    Are you sure it has hyd steering, cajun specials usually don't, it is pretty expensive. but lets assume you do. The Hyd are not under pressure unless the wheel is turned then fluid spurts like a zombie melon after a 10mm injection. You will lose some fluid let gravity work for you try to keep the open lines elevated move the lines how you need re attach hoses buy a quart of steering fluid, don't use anything else just buy the 15.00 qt of hyd fluid ther is a fill hose it usually comes with the steering kits it threads directly into the helm then has a fitting that fits the qt a pin is supplied poke a pin hole on a bottom corner not on the bottom! Attach the qt of fluid, turn qt upside down and turn the wheel lock to lock about a bazillion times or until all the bubbles quit then you are done.
     

    cnodie1

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    4a7ddbaa.jpg

    12bb5237.jpg

    e3d15b0b.jpg


    Top and middle are behind the steering wheel it looks like there's a cable and a tube running out the back of the wheel?
     
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    Emperor

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    That's not hydraulics. That is a standard greased steering cable. Disconnect at the motor, it will be easier to deal with.
     

    cnodie1

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    Ok after googling a bit I found out it is a teleflex sh5023 cable system. My question now is what do I need to do to disconnect the system and run it different
     

    Emperor

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    Ok after googling a bit I found out it is a teleflex sh5023 cable system. My question now is what do I need to do to disconnect the system and run it different

    I knew it was Teleflex, I couldn't remember the name. You are going to have to increase the length of the cable (buy another), unless you have enough slack in the cable already, to move to the middle. My Telefelx cable is just long enough to make it from motor to side mounted console without an inch to spare. If I moved my console to the middle, I would have to run the cable across the rear seat, and that would be in the way, look crappy, and be just plain silly.

    I suspect you could run it under the seat, but then you expose it to knicks, cuts, crushing, and water. You probably already guessed, you cannot bend that cable on any type of hard angle. It is designed to run rather straight. Heavy bends in the cable severly weaken them. And after time, may snap it.
     

    cnodie1

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    It's got a nice 90 turn in the back and a slight one going to the steering wheel. I'm probably going to run it under the seat (maybe through?) it should be long enough. I'll keep you updated
     

    Emperor

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    It's got a nice 90 turn in the back and a slight one going to the steering wheel. I'm probably going to run it under the seat (maybe through?) it should be long enough. I'll keep you updated

    Yes, but that is not a hard 90! The cable would kink. Gradual turns is all you are going to get out of a Teleflex cable. The more pressure you put on the housing the more friction you will encounter and as it wears and gets gummy, it will be harder and harder to turn the motor.

    It is a pain in the ass to have to muscle a steering wheel on a boat. And it's dangerous.
     

    peterf225

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    The 90 is ok as long as its a long radius and not a sharp turn. The cable will basically let you know the most it can bend. If your cable isn't long enough you have to get a new one. The newer ones have a quick connect on them that the older ones don't so you would also have to get an adaptor. But after the cost of the new cable and adaptor for only an extra ~$40 you can get a whole new steering setup. Only reason I know this is I went through the same thing back in February.
     

    cnodie1

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    It's not a hard 90 in the back but it is enough for what I need. We may have a longer one around the shop somewhere but I will have to wait till pops gets back to ask him where it is.
     

    cnodie1

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    Took a little work but I got it free of its original home. I'm most likely going to cut a hole through the back and front of the seat so it's not running under the deck. How is this for a curve-

    e6dc42e7.jpg


    Moves like it did before so I think it's ok. Any thoughts?


    Next step is getting the control wires through :eek3: have to figure out where to disconnect them.
     

    cnodie1

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    Also any idea what these are for? I was thinking gauges, rpm mph etc...

    4fe2aef1.jpg


    They have never been connected I don't think
     
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    MyTFAL

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    Gauges, pink wire is universal for fuel level,yellow green and black =Tach, trim yada yada gauge wires, cable bend looks fine, if the turn is to tight the steering won't feel right, as in to tight.
     

    Emperor

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    Took a little work but I got it free of its original home. I'm most likely going to cut a hole through the back and front of the seat so it's not running under the deck. How is this for a curve-

    e6dc42e7.jpg


    Moves like it did before so I think it's ok. Any thoughts?

    Next step is getting the control wires through :eek3: have to figure out where to disconnect them.

    Okay, so you deal with a little awkwardness with that cable. No sweat! If it does what you want, you have succeeded. Good job!

    As for the control wires, I guess you don't want to drill a giant hole in your seat, and I dont blame you. So, if you HAD to or WANTED to, you could cut the adaptor connectors, and feed just wire through the smaller hole. One of the downsides to that is the splicing or reconnecting will allow moisture and or weakness in your lines. But, if it's any consolation; I have cut and re-spliced wires on my boat for many years. It doesn't look professional, but it works. And when it does finally corrode or cause problems, you just cut and re-splice again.

    Carry on!

    One question though; what is with all those bilge pumps? It's an Allweld! Why is it leaking enough to need two bilge pumps?
     
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    cnodie1

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    You should have seen the leak I was working with for a while! I think it started because the trailer hits it wrong but I rammed a few trees on a botched hunt and it really opened her up. One wasn't cutting it :D also I feel the same way as fal. The leak has been fixed correctly this time. I looked back towards the motor and it seems like the wires can be disconnected quite easily. I'll check some more tomorrow.
     
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    KaCajun Boy

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    What size motor is that? I have YAHAMA that looks just like that, bought brand new cables last year and if you want them plus a motor side console and the steering wheel let me know cause I bought a new motor 2 weeks ago and all that I listed is just sitting in my way now. PM me if you are interested.
     

    MyTFAL

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    Cnodie whats the engine model code on the left side mounting bracket? I may have something for you.
     

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