My current generator is a 5600 watt continous output. On the tag it says 23 AMP output at 240 volts. I use the 30 AMP / 240v twist lock plug into my 30 AMP breaker. So my question is that if I am only running items that use 120 volts, I should be able to pull a total of 46 AMPs at 120 volts? Is that correct?
generator AMPs output question - 120v vs 240v
- Thread starter toddrod
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This is correct. I am going to be getting a bigger genset and I am trying to figure out if I want to go 8KW or 10 KW continous output. I will not be runninig my central A/C off of this.
My current generator is a 5600 watt continous output. On the tag it says 23 AMP output at 240 volts. I use the 30 AMP / 240v twist lock plug into my 30 AMP breaker. So my question is that if I am only running items that use 120 volts, I should be able to pull a total of 46 AMPs at 120 volts? Is that correct?
Someone can correct me if I state something wrong. I believe this to be correct based upon my electrical knowledge but am not an electrician.
Yes but not quite. Your generator's windings have two 120 volt "sides" or feeds, just as your incoming power does. What it will supply to each 120 volt "side" is half of its total output or 2800 watts. So you can't pull the total 5600 watts from one winding. Your electrical load will need to be somewhat divided between the two sides or it can overload one winding on the generator. Every other circuit breaker on one side of the electrical panel is connected to one "side". The others on the same side are connected to the other 120v side. So, on the left side of your panel will be breakers " 1,3,5 etc. Every other slot, 1,5,9,etc. will be on the same load "side". On the right side will be the even numbered breakers, but the same applies.
Someone can correct me if I state something wrong. I believe this to be correct based upon my electrical knowledge but am not an electrician.
Yes but not quite. Your generator's windings have two 120 volt "sides" or feeds, just as your incoming power does. What it will supply to each 120 volt "side" is half of its total output or 2800 watts. So you can't pull the total 5600 watts from one winding. Your electrical load will need to be somewhat divided between the two sides or it can overload one winding on the generator. Every other circuit breaker on one side of the electrical panel is connected to one "side". The others on the same side are connected to the other 120v side. So, on the left side of your panel will be breakers " 1,3,5 etc. Every other slot, 1,5,9,etc. will be on the same load "side". On the right side will be the even numbered breakers, but the same applies.
What bill is saying is correct. Let me try to explain this clearly. Let's ignore voltage drop from wire length and connections.
Feeding you house from the electric company is a 220v - 200A (usually) service. This is made up of two 'legs' of 120volt power with respect to neutral with a 180deg phase difference. This means there is 120V running down each buss in the breaker box, L1 and L2. To achieve 220V. a double pole breaker is tied to both the L1 and the L2 buss and since each 120V bus is 180deg out of phase with each other it gives a voltage potential of 240V.
When you remove the electric company service and replace it with your generator, you will have a 240V - 23A service. You will have 23A capacity on each bus in the breaker box. If only running 120v items, you will have the capacity of 46A @ 120V, but it has to be evenly distributed between the two busses to evenly load each leg of the generator. This can be tricky if you do not know the power draw of each item you are using, along with knowing which buss each circuit in your house is tied to to make sure you have an balanced load on the generator.
Feeding you house from the electric company is a 220v - 200A (usually) service. This is made up of two 'legs' of 120volt power with respect to neutral with a 180deg phase difference. This means there is 120V running down each buss in the breaker box, L1 and L2. To achieve 220V. a double pole breaker is tied to both the L1 and the L2 buss and since each 120V bus is 180deg out of phase with each other it gives a voltage potential of 240V.
When you remove the electric company service and replace it with your generator, you will have a 240V - 23A service. You will have 23A capacity on each bus in the breaker box. If only running 120v items, you will have the capacity of 46A @ 120V, but it has to be evenly distributed between the two busses to evenly load each leg of the generator. This can be tricky if you do not know the power draw of each item you are using, along with knowing which buss each circuit in your house is tied to to make sure you have an balanced load on the generator.
The bars are not common and it does make a difference.
charliepapa
Clandestine Sciuridae
I don't think so. the "bars" in the box come up and are connected to every other spot in the box. the single breakers that feed 120V requirements only connect to one spot or one of the bars. the 240V requirements use double breakers that connect to two spots, one side on each of the two bars.
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I don't think so. the "bars" in the box come up and are connected to every other spot in the box. the single breakers that feed 120V requirements only connect to one spot or one of the bars. the 240V requirements use double breakers that connect to two spots, one side on each of the two bars.
good illustration.
The drawing is incorrect.
If you look inside the panel, at the upper most spots(breakers 1 and 2) both breakers are attached to the same buss. As an example phase A
Breakers 3 & 4 will be attached to phase B
breakers 5 & 6 will be attached to phase A
etc. etc.
Odd numbers are on the left, even are on the right
This should be consistant unless you install the piggy back/slim line breakers.
If you look inside the panel, at the upper most spots(breakers 1 and 2) both breakers are attached to the same buss. As an example phase A
Breakers 3 & 4 will be attached to phase B
breakers 5 & 6 will be attached to phase A
etc. etc.
Odd numbers are on the left, even are on the right
This should be consistant unless you install the piggy back/slim line breakers.
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flamatrix99
Well-Known Member
from your 240v genney you have 120v 23amp on each bus in your breaker panel.
A single pole breaker only comes off of one bus. Say for a bedroom circuit. Two pole breakers say for your A/C come off of both buses to give you 240v.
dantheman would be the one to ask though.
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bayoupirate
God of Thunder
What are you planning on running?
Fridge, freezer, lights, tv, computer and a couple of window units?
Figure out your watt/amp load. Whatever the a/c unit(s) are rated for, double that for amps needed to start-up.
Be sure that the new gen can make that rating continou.
You want that extra for start-up. If you get a
g
enerator with just enough capacity, you'll be running it hard always. Thats not good on any of the components.
Running at about 50 to 70%. is most efficient.
Fridge, freezer, lights, tv, computer and a couple of window units?
Figure out your watt/amp load. Whatever the a/c unit(s) are rated for, double that for amps needed to start-up.
Be sure that the new gen can make that rating continou.
You want that extra for start-up. If you get a
g
enerator with just enough capacity, you'll be running it hard always. Thats not good on any of the components.
Running at about 50 to 70%. is most efficient.
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