Anyone ever use SeaFoam in their cars/trucks?
- Thread starter oldsman350
- Start date
The Best online firearms community in Louisiana.
Member Benefits:
Fewer Ads! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
i use a full can in the gas every oil change of my truck. and 1/4 can in the fuel tank of my street bike every 1k miles.
when i had my 99 ranger it sat for 13 months in a field by seattle while i was in iraq.
it ran like crap for 2 tanks of gas. 1 can of sea foam later it was purring like new.
when i had my 99 ranger it sat for 13 months in a field by seattle while i was in iraq.
it ran like crap for 2 tanks of gas. 1 can of sea foam later it was purring like new.
jetmech1983
*Banned*
Been using it for a long time now, works pretty good as a fuel stabilizer as well. Better than Stabil in my opinion. Doesnt gum up power equipment carbs either. win win.
I get mine from advanced auto.
LA_Huntsman
Call of Booty
interesting... I might have to try some of this
general mills
Well-Known Member
I'm not an auto mechanic, I'm a jet mechanic, but I do my own and many other people's auto, motorcycle, generator, weedeater, lawnmower, pretty much anything that burns fuel and spins work. YES, SEAFOAM WORKS. I use it at every oil change in the gas tank and it keeps my cars running great. On older cars that have that rough idle, seafoam will strraighten them right up. Put in a can with a full tank of gas. That tank of gas will burn faster than normal, but you will see increased fuel milage in the long run. If your car idles rough or stumbles and the reasen is gummed up injectors or such, this stuff will fix it. If the car has problems now, use it 2-3 tanks. Otherwise, every oil change will keep injectors, valves clean. If your worried about carbon in the engine, like you said, I've heard of and the directions say you can put it in the oil, run for a bit then drain. I've never done this personaly and feel a switching to a good synthetic (moblil 1) will do the same thing in the long run. As far as sucking it up a vaccuum line, that may work, but you run a serious risk of hydrolocking the motor if you suck in to much to fast. I wouldn't do that, putting it in the tank for multiple tanks will do the same thing.
wallyworld
I too have heard good things about seafoam. I've also heard of destroyed engines. One case they tracked down to seafoam in the gas interacting with a different additive in the oil. Be careful.
Snookie, I do remember drive in movies. I think the last movie I saw there was Star Wars. I have to say as a kid seeing Darth Vader 40' tall was impressive. Kinda like a low res IMAX you watch in your car while battling mosquitos.
We lived in the Canadian Rockies when I was little. Drive in movies only played after dark. Because of how far north we were in the summer the movies didn't start until after 10.
I also remember carbuerators. Not quite as fondly as drive ins though!
Snookie, I do remember drive in movies. I think the last movie I saw there was Star Wars. I have to say as a kid seeing Darth Vader 40' tall was impressive. Kinda like a low res IMAX you watch in your car while battling mosquitos.
We lived in the Canadian Rockies when I was little. Drive in movies only played after dark. Because of how far north we were in the summer the movies didn't start until after 10.
I also remember carbuerators. Not quite as fondly as drive ins though!
Summit_Ace
*Banned*
- Jul 6, 2009
- 610
- 16
I ran it straight in my '84 Mercedes diesel to clean the injectors. Not sure if there was any difference. Your Toyota 4 banger should have no problem getting to 200k plus. Heck if you changed the oil every 10k it would probably clear 200k.
Praesul Presul
On Target.....Sometimes
...and I thought this was just another gimmick.
Stuff works great! I have been using it since I started changing my oil. I will say now more places carry it then 10 years back. Additionally it works well to remove carbon on anything. I have put it on a rag and used it to wipe down carbon off cylinder heads after they have been removed from the engine.
As mentioned be careful if you take it in through a vacuum line. That is normally the method I run it through, but you need to move slowly with how much is sucked in. Going through the gas tank works well too. If you use the vacuum line or down the carb method when you shut off the engine and start it back up, you will have a serious smoke screen. So because of that watch where you go run the car after, but a few wide open throttle runs will get that all cleared out.
As mentioned be careful if you take it in through a vacuum line. That is normally the method I run it through, but you need to move slowly with how much is sucked in. Going through the gas tank works well too. If you use the vacuum line or down the carb method when you shut off the engine and start it back up, you will have a serious smoke screen. So because of that watch where you go run the car after, but a few wide open throttle runs will get that all cleared out.
The big thing to avoid is a big slug of the liquid in a single cylinder causing a hydraulic lock (liquid doesn't compress resulting in bent rods etc.) hence going slowly with the fluid. Using the big vacuum line on the brake booster might NOT be such a good idea as it is normally not centrally located in the intake system and will disproportionately distribute the solvent in the engine. A Vacuum line attached at the throttle body is your best bet.
IF you have large accumulations of carbon, it can be dislodged and get stuck between a valve and its seat resulting in loss of compression, miss-fire and possibly a brunt/bent valve. The likelihood is low but it does exist.
IF you have large accumulations of carbon, it can be dislodged and get stuck between a valve and its seat resulting in loss of compression, miss-fire and possibly a brunt/bent valve. The likelihood is low but it does exist.
I've used it and it's good stuff. Some people really love it. It all depends on the issue with the vehicle IMO.
But,,,LA Camper is 100% correct,,,,especially when dealing with the Trans add.
I had an older car with a week auto trans and have always used Trans-X for my trans add. One day I added Seafoam to that trans and I am guessing it reacted with the Trans-X. Dammed thing slipped and almost went out. I had to flush the trans and then added my Trans- X. No more problems.
So, the moral is never mix additives
But,,,LA Camper is 100% correct,,,,especially when dealing with the Trans add.
I had an older car with a week auto trans and have always used Trans-X for my trans add. One day I added Seafoam to that trans and I am guessing it reacted with the Trans-X. Dammed thing slipped and almost went out. I had to flush the trans and then added my Trans- X. No more problems.
So, the moral is never mix additives
Look into GM Synchromesh IIRC for Transmission needs 
I added a bottle of Seafoam to my 1992 integra today, will let everyone know how it goes. ( I got it from walmart, btw, they keep plenty on hand also cleaned out the 9mm WWB value packs hehe)
I added a bottle of Seafoam to my 1992 integra today, will let everyone know how it goes. ( I got it from walmart, btw, they keep plenty on hand also cleaned out the 9mm WWB value packs hehe)
Last edited:
Look into GM Synchromesh IIRC for Transmission needs
I added a bottle of Seafoam to my 1992 integra today, will let everyone know how it goes. ( I got it from walmart, btw, they keep plenty on hand also cleaned out the 9mm WWB value packs hehe)
Syncromesh is a manual trans fluid. I had to use it in my 95 Sierra because it would kick itself out of gear if I didnt.
