looking for reloading material

[bigrobkell]

i am looking to start reloading but i want to make sure i do my homework first. Can any one suggest some good reloading material for me to read? i have seen counless reloading manuals but since i am new to reloading i am not sure which to start with. any help is appreciated. thanks

 

[JimmyB]

I like the Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook
It has the best load data and has plenty of room on the pages to write in personal data such as OAL, bullet type, etc….
Houma Auto Parts should have a copy if you wan to look at one first
That’s where I got mine

I have the Speer and some others but never use them

 

[JimmyB]

What are you going to be reloading and on what type of machine?

 

[bigrobkell]

9mm, .45, 10mm, and eventually 5.56 and 6.8spc. im looking at the dillon 550 right now. i figured while i save up for the dillon i can learn as much as i can. thats the plan for now anyway.

 

[Gunnut80]

It is not in front of me but I think the book is called the ABC's of Reloading...It is one of my favorites and will be at books a million. You can also find alot of reloading videos on youtube as well as Lee's website.

 

[JimmyB]

9mm, .45, 10mm, and eventually 5.56 and 6.8spc

That’s an awful lot to reload for

9mm can be bought for a reasonable price and 45ACP isn’t that bad
The 10mm would be worth it if you shoot a lot

I use a Dillon 550 to reload pistol(40S&W and 45ACP) but was somewhat worried about 223
Rifle brass needs to be trimmed and 223 won’t work in an AR is the shoulder isn’t right
AR reloading

I use a Hornady Lock-N-Load for 223. This is a great system for the lower round count of a rifle
Maybe it’s just me but I shoot much more pistol than rifle

Reloading for the AR has especially been a problem for me. I started out reloading for a bolt precision rifle
A bolt gun will always chamber but an AR seems to be giving me fits

I’ve changed dies for AR reloading but am still not that certain about it. The Dillon would have been a bad choice but maybe I’m ‘challenged’

 

[highstandard40]

9mm, .45, 10mm, and eventually 5.56 and 6.8spc

That’s an awful lot to reload for

9mm can be bought for a reasonable price and 45ACP isn’t that bad
The 10mm would be worth it if you shoot a lot

I use a Dillon 550 to reload pistol(40S&W and 45ACP) but was somewhat worried about 223
Rifle brass needs to be trimmed and 223 won’t work in an AR is the shoulder isn’t right
AR reloading

I use a Hornady Lock-N-Load for 223. This is a great system for the lower round count of a rifle
Maybe it’s just me but I shoot much more pistol than rifle

Reloading for the AR has especially been a problem for me. I started out reloading for a bolt precision rifle
A bolt gun will always chamber but an AR seems to be giving me fits

I’ve changed dies for AR reloading but am still not that certain about it. The Dillon would have been a bad choice but maybe I’m ‘challenged’

In regards to the 223 issues.....Are you using small base dies?

 

[JimmyB]

I really don’t know what a small base die is or where to order from


For bolt gun
I use a Redding B/FL 07 without neck sizing insert. This is a full length die with changeable neck inserts
Trim brass
Run through B/FL again with neck sizing die. I prime during this stage
Then load power and bullet
It won’t work for the AR


For AR reloading
I use a Redding Body U8 die
Then Redding B/Nk U8 without neck sizing insert
Trim brass
Redding B/Nk U8 with neck sizing insert. I prime during this stage
I check casings with a Wilson casing checker

Then load power and bullet
Crimp

 

[highstandard40]

I really don’t know what a small base die is or where to order from


For bolt gun
I use a Redding B/FL 07 without neck sizing insert. This is a full length die with changeable neck inserts
Trim brass
Run through B/FL again with neck sizing die. I prime during this stage
Then load power and bullet
It won’t work for the AR


For AR reloading
I use a Redding Body U8 die
Then Redding B/Nk U8 without neck sizing insert
Trim brass
Redding B/Nk U8 with neck sizing insert. I prime during this stage
I check casings with a Wilson casing checker

Then load power and bullet
Crimp

Small Base Full Length Sizer dies squeeze the brass down to minimal SAAMI specifications. To ensure reliable feeding in semi-automatic firearms

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=466853

 

[Beaver Creek]

9mm, .45, 10mm, and eventually 5.56 and 6.8spc

That’s an awful lot to reload for

9mm can be bought for a reasonable price and 45ACP isn’t that bad
The 10mm would be worth it if you shoot a lot

I use a Dillon 550 to reload pistol(40S&W and 45ACP) but was somewhat worried about 223
Rifle brass needs to be trimmed and 223 won’t work in an AR is the shoulder isn’t right
AR reloading

I use a Hornady Lock-N-Load for 223. This is a great system for the lower round count of a rifle
Maybe it’s just me but I shoot much more pistol than rifle

Reloading for the AR has especially been a problem for me. I started out reloading for a bolt precision rifle
A bolt gun will always chamber but an AR seems to be giving me fits

I’ve changed dies for AR reloading but am still not that certain about it. The Dillon would have been a bad choice but maybe I’m ‘challenged’

The Dillon 550B & 1050 produces a fine .223 load with no problems for me in a Colt HBAR, Bushmaster or M&P15. I rarely trim cases unless I'm looking for 1/2 MOA accuracy. The key to success is a separate factory crimp die. I know this crimp thing has been beat to death on this forum and others but I do crimp .223's going into an autolader and will continue to do so but I never, never, never crimp with the seater die.

 

[Tulse Luper]

I’ve changed dies for AR reloading but am still not that certain about it. The Dillon would have been a bad choice but maybe I’m ‘challenged’

Get a case gauge. That one item taught me a lot, and it can show you were your problems are if they lie with the ammo itself.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25547/catid/3/Dillon_Rifle_Case_Gages?item=4093#4093

 

[JimmyB]

I use a Wilson Case Gauge to check cases but when there’s a problem. What is the solution?
Different dies?
What type?

I will do as highstandar40 suggest and get a small base FL die for AR reloading.
I had thought my problems were shoulder related and not base related but I will try the small base FL die

 

[Tulse Luper]

I use a Wilson Case Gauge to check cases but when there’s a problem. What is the solution?
Different dies?
What type?

I will do as highstandar40 suggest and get a small base FL die for AR reloading.
I had thought my problems were shoulder related and not base related but I will try the small base FL die

So all your ammo meets specs in the gauge but is unreliable in the AR?

What kind of brass are you using.

 

[JimmyB]

So all your ammo meets specs in the gauge but is unreliable in the AR?
No, they won’t fit in the case gauge. I use the case gauge everytime I change dies or make adjustments to try and find the problem


What kind of brass are you using.
Lake City mostly but I had the same problem with Remington and Winchester



New brass loading works great. No issues at all

Once or more fired brass won’t chamber. It gets stuck before bolt can close and is hell to push back out
I tried 3 different uppers, same results.

I stopped using the full length die and started using a body die and a Redding B/NK die

This seems to have done the most good
They fit in the case gauge a lot better but not as good as new brass reloads
It’s easy to tell the reloads are right at the edge of not working

I will order a full length small base die
If this doesn’t work, then it must be a shoulder problem

 

[drumz2129]

ABCs of Reloading and Lyman 49th are 2 great resources.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=837228

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=217655

 

[sksshooter]

So all your ammo meets specs in the gauge but is unreliable in the AR?
No, they won’t fit in the case gauge. I use the case gauge everytime I change dies or make adjustments to try and find the problem


What kind of brass are you using.
Lake City mostly but I had the same problem with Remington and Winchester



New brass loading works great. No issues at all

Once or more fired brass won’t chamber. It gets stuck before bolt can close and is hell to push back out
I tried 3 different uppers, same results.

I stopped using the full length die and started using a body die and a Redding B/NK die

This seems to have done the most good
They fit in the case gauge a lot better but not as good as new brass reloads
It’s easy to tell the reloads are right at the edge of not working

I will order a full length small base die
If this doesn’t work, then it must be a shoulder problem

the small base dies will fix your problems but you shouldn't be having them if you have a full length sizing die that is properly adjusted. neck sizing is not a good route for semi autos. maybe you can describe how you are adjusting the fl sizing die? also are you trimming your brass?

 

[JimmyB]

I just ordered a small base full length and a small base body die from Sinclair
The body die is supposed to bump the shoulder as well. If the FL works, I won’t be using the body die

I will try the FL to see if that will do it.
In the past, I sized the neck but from now on I will not size the neck. I order the S type and can run without the sizing bushing

And yes, I always trim the brass

The FL die I have been using is adjusted all the way. It won’t work. Ammo will get stuck in 3 different ARs

 

[sksshooter]

what kind of fl die do you currently have? also you may have an issue with neck tension if you don't size the neck in the process.

are you new to loading?

i have read of issues with fl sizing dies not working properly in one gun but can't see it happening in 3. sammi specks have a min/max. ive heard of guns having a tight chamber and the dies being on the max size of the chamber and there being issues but the chances of you haveing 3 tight chambers in rifles that weren't custom built is pretty unilikely.

also have you tried the brass after sizing and trimming for fit before charging and seating the bullet? that would help rule out any issues that may be caused in the seating function. also are you crimping?

 

[JimmyB]

Not new to reloading. Have reloaded 10s of thousands of pistol rounds. No problems

Have reloaded several thousand rifle rounds for a 223 bolt gun. No problems. I have noticed the bolt takes more pressure to close than usual. I only use Lapua brass for the bolt gun

The FL is a Redding type S. It has neck sizing collets. I have always sized necks for a bolt gun. I never crimp bolt gun bullets but do neck size

I always trim brass. Bolt gun or AR


The trouble started with once fired brass for AR reloading. The brass is not random pick-ups but recovered brass that I had fired. Mostly Remington

AR uppers that have trouble chambering reloads(if you call getting stuck before bolt closes as being trouble) are a Bushmaster(chrome chamber), JP barreled upper and a DSA upper(nitride). All do exactly the same thing

Any new brass reloads(Lake City, Remington or Winchester) work great
Once fired is the problem
AR loads are crimped on cannelure. I only load 55grgr FMJs for ARs.

 

[sksshooter]

What die are you using to crimp? I would try a couple sized cases for fit. It will tell you if the problem lies in the sizing, seating, or crimping function. Are you seating and crimping in the same step? it could be a couple of things either the cases are not getting sized properly. Or the crimping is bulging the case at the shoulder. If a sized case fits try loading some and not crmping them to see if the problem still exists. Also as a side note it's really not needed to crimp these rounds if you have proper neck tension