Redding 9mm Micrometer Seating Die

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  • Mlapor3

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    Jan 27, 2009
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    Gonzales
    I'm pondering getting one of these Redding 9mm Micrometer adjustable bullet seating dies. I've seen decently favorable reviews in my searches so far. I view it mainly as an easy way to adjust COL when working up loads with different bullets and powders. I don't expect as much precision out of it as you would in a single stage press as I'm currently loading on a Dillon 550 and tend to get somewhere in the +/- .002 COL variance in my current loads depending on how well lubed the cases are.

    Does anyone have any experience with this and what are your thoughts on this as a tool to easily work up loads. TIA

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    As a side note, does anyone have any suggestions on reducing walnut residue left on the cases after cleaning in a tumbler? I notice they are more difficult to load after cleaning and generally need a little case lube to make loading go smoother (using carbide dies).
     

    ajridgedell

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    I use dryer sheets, used or new to absorb the dust from walnut media, works good for me. Never used a seater die like that, in my opinion it may be overkill for 9mm but if your trying different bullets may help out though.
     

    ajridgedell

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    I put the drier sheets in my tumbler with the media and with the ammo I'm tumbling. The drier sheets absorb the fine dust left from walnut media. After each batch I throw out the drier sheets. I add more if I still have dust after tumbling. I use walnut media only to polish and remove lube on my loaded ammo, but should apply to cleaning brass too. I use stainless media to clean my brass.
     

    noylj

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    The micrometer is only of use if you record the setting for the COL for a given bullet. I simply save one of my inert dummy rounds to re-set the seating die. More important that the die would be to get seating stems that actually FIT the bullet (and contact the bullet lower on the ogive).
    If you have dust, go to 20/40 corn. Nut hulls not only produce a lot of dust, but that dust can pack in the cases and you'll have to scrape the cases out (this can be really bad with bottleneck cases as it is hard to see in the case). I find that corn works great for all cases that haven't been thrown in mud and allowed to dry. If you still have dust, then throw in a USED anti-cling dryer sheet (if your wife or you use them) or paper towel strips and, possibly, some mineral spirits (not the "green" MS trash). You can also tumble outside and leave the top off...
    Then, of course, there is ultrasonic and stainless steel pin cleaning.
     

    Request Dust Off

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    Westbank N.O.
    I never have a problem with walnut sticking to the cases. I don't add anything to the media. It does have some dust/dirt. The cleaner the brass is, the less dirt. I have had some nasty brass in the past from outdoor ranges. (Dried mud).

    Don't cut up the dryer sheet, just poke the middle over the lid hold down stud.
     

    Mlapor3

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    Bayouslide, thanks for the heads up. I'm still pretty new to reloading, could you give me a little explanation as to how that kit eliminates runout?

    I ordered the seating die and I'll try to report back how it works out for me.

    Thanks for the drier sheet advice I'll try that. I'll also try letting it run outside for a bit without the lid to see if that helps get some of the dust out. I just changed out my media for the first time and it had a good bit of dust remaining (I'm assuming from the first batch). I plan to empty the case cleaner and wipe it out good to get all that loose stuff before trying these other methods. My brass doesn't tend to be terribly dirty, as in no mud or major grime, but getting the film of dust off would seem to benefit my reloading.

    I've read briefly on the stainless media tumbling, but I'm not sure I'm ready to head down that road.
     
    Last edited:

    BayouSlide

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    Dec 5, 2008
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    On the Bayou Teche, La.
    Bayouslide, thanks for the heads up. I'm still pretty new to reloading, could you give me a little explanation as to how that kit eliminates runout?

    Removes the excess play in the shellplate, as well as smoothing up the indexing. If you'd like to see what excess play can cause, check the difference between the OAL with a round in each position versus seating with just brass in the seating position. As a bonus, it gives you a much better feel for seating the primer, again by removing some of the play in the shellplate. At $20, it's an easy call.
     
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