Remington 341 stock re-finish

[FISHSTICKER]

Guys:

I am in the process of re-finishing a stock for a Remington Model 341. Wood was in great shape. The varnish or whatever type of clear was on the stock was bad. I stripped the stock revealing what looked like a beautiful piece of hickory. Then ironed out a few dents and did a light sanding. Mr. Eduardo was cutting and threading the barrel on an old lever gun of mine and I saw a beautiful stock that he was finishing that had the color and look I wanted on this old rifle. He told me to use Danish oil and gave me some instructions.

So, I have now completed two wipe downs with Danish oil on the stock and have the color I want. Mr. Eduardo’s instructions are too wet sand the stock with a mix of Danish Oil and mineral spirits repeatedly to fill the pores. Now, I am not doubting this will work, but I don’t know if I want to wet sand this stock 10 or 15 times. As BLO is thicker, would a wet sand with BLO fill the wood pores with fewer passes? Or should I proceed with the Danish oil? If I proceed with the Danish Oil I am sure the stock will get darker and I think I would prefer the color I currently have.

If you have any other suggestions for finishing this thing up (filling the wood pores) let me know.

Thanks.

 

[sgt z]

Try the way you were instructed, not his first rodeo. Last stock I did with a product called Arrow Wood Finish and results were acceptable. I have used 1/3 wax paste or Gunny Paste and have put on some coffee then 1/3.

 

[CHW2021]

Any oil finish will have to be "built up" in thin layers, including the BLO. If you are happy with the texture of the wood (no raised fibers or undue roughness) you can skip the sandings and just go with the thin coats of danish oil. You can probably expect the wood to get darker, but it will not be too much compared to the first few coats.
Rather than sanding you may try fine steelwool and wipe the wood with mineral spirits as sandpaper "cuts" the finish a bit more. You probably have the wood pores basically filled after 2 coats.

Post pictures please.

Use steelwool dry, expect it to shed strands of steel.

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Well, I don't exactly know how to post a pic. It's asking for the url.......can't copy and paste I guess. I was just thinking that the BLO consistency is much thicker and may fill the grain faster than the much thinner Danish Oil and Mineral Spirits. I will have to do a bit of research on how to post a picture.

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Ok, I did not take any "before pics" because I was not planning on starting a thread on the re-do. But here is a pic from opening weekend 2013.

And here is how she looks now.

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Current photo does not do it justice.

 

[sgt z]

looking good

 

[CHW2021]

Nice looking, I can see why you don't want it too dark. Do keep in mind that blo is "thicker" but you still have to build up thin coats of an oil finish and blo usually takes longer to dry between coats. Stay with the Danish oil and try the steelwool. It will take time, but it should give you the end result you want. Oil shouldn't really darken the stock too much more.

Skip the oil and mineral spirits sanding step and evaluate after a few coats oil oil and steelwool rub between coats 3 &4.

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Yesterday I did a rub down with 400 grit and danish oil. And left the "mud" on the stock to dry. You think say 000 steel wool will do a better job of filling the pores?

If so I will use that tomorrow. Or should I just clean off the "mud" and lay down a thin layer of danish oil tomorrow?

 

[CHW2021]

Part of what you want to do is to cut the "whiskers" of raised wood fibers caused by liquid swelling the wood. Next you want to smooth the finish, I would have wiped off the "mud" as this is a mix of fibers and grit from the paper, kinda dark, wasn't it?
The pores are filled by building finish on top of and in the raw wood, the first 1-2 coats soaked right in and dried quickly, right? After that you start building the finish coats. Sandpaper acts like tiny teeth that cut thru the finish and cut back to the wood giving more bare wood fibers to "raise" and stick up like whiskers.
Bear in mind that this is only my opinion, but I would quit with the wet sanding and put on a coat, let it dry, and do 1-2 more; use steelwool to smooth the surface, wipe with mineral spirits to clean and apply 2-3 more thin coats.

Drop me a pm and give me your number if you would want to talk.

Charles

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Thanks Charles.

I'll try that. I may bother you if things don't appear to be working out.

 

[FISHSTICKER]

Thanks for your assistance guys. After posting here I did complete one more *light wet sanding with 400 grit and a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and Danish Oil. After that I performed three series of Danish Oil coat and remove….Then applied a premium wood floor wax to seal. Looks like all the pores were filled prior to waxing…. after waxing it looks just like I had hoped.

As a side note under the recoil pad scribed in pencil was *R F FARTHY 12-25-41* bet he would be happy to know its still in great shape and has a home where it will be cherished for many more moons. If only it could tell its story.

Thanks for you help guys.

Eddie.