From what I understand a metal roof that is done right has a much longer lifespan. That being said, it is more succeptible to wind / hurricanes than a shingle roof.
The key to a metal roof, as noted by earlier posters, is correct installation. If done wrong you will have a big expensive mess. Like my father-in-law's metal roof. He's all about saving money and gets screwed regularly.
BTW - Be sure to check your subdivisions restrictions. Many specify what type roofing products are permitted.
I have metal and wouldnt go any other way if given the choice. As for it being more susceptible to damage from a hurricane and storm, I would like to see any info to back that up because the general understand is just the opposite. It does cost more upfront, but generally lasts a lot longer. GO with 26 gauge NOT 29 gauge! A lot of insurers will ask what gauge it is.
My shop was built from painted galvalume that was already25 years old when we took it down from another building to build my shop and other than the paint being faded, it was not harmed at all even though the building took some damage from andrew that snapped some 6"x6" posts that supported the 32'x80' roof (it was a hardware store lumber storage building).
The metal roofing now days is awesome and some cannot be told from shingles until you are very close up.
STAY AWAY FROM METAL SHINGLE ROOFS. Metal shingle roofs tend not to be installed correctly. Particularly by people who advertise on TV and offer financing. RUN AWAY. They can be a good option if the installer is well versed in flashing, and uses screws with five clips per panel. Installers who can properly install a metal shingle roof tend to charge $225 per hundred square feet, (labor for the subcontractor, not what you pay) or a square. If they are working for less than that, be afraid.
I am in the business. Metal roofs are great. If you don't have a lot of valleys, dormers and hips.
Standing Seam is the best type of metal roof. No exposed fasteners. Fasteners are a potential leak.
"R" Panel and "Low Profile" Metal Roofs are great too. The above advice about 26 ga is correct. 24 ga is even better. With the proper screw patterns they can withstand winds no shingle roof can endure. Their weak link is the washers that seal the fasteners. Insist on "Zak" type fasteners to protect these washers from being crushed on installation and from damage from UV sunlight. You will have a very strong, long lasting roof.
Architectural Shingle Roofs are the standard since codes were updated after Katrina. Three tab shingles can still be installed with a reduced exposure, (4") and seven nails per panel. By the time you do that, you don't save any money and don't have nearly the warranty. For Architectural shingles, measure the square footage of your roof. Add three or four hundred square feet. Multiply by about $200/square. Add decking, rotted wood, flashing, vents and stink pipes.
You need at least 5/8" decking to meet new codes. If you have thinner decking, consider going over it with another layer to help hold the nails. A layer of felt between the two layers of decking will add an extra layer of protection in the event of wind stripping your shingles.