S&W M&P Scratchy Trigger

[Boothkicker]

I've tried searching the forum and cannot find a topic for this. What's the deal with a scratchy trigger on my S&W M&P 9mm? I bought the gun used but it has no signs of use/wear/"hidden" carbon build up. If the slide is on the frame the trigger is extremely scratchy and feels like it's grinding or something. If I take the slide off and pull the trigger it is fine.

Is there something I can polish to get the scratch/grit out?

Thanks

 

[SpeedRacer]

The firing pin plunger causes the grittiness during initial takeup. You can round it off/polish it or best bet is just drop in an Apex kit. To access the plunger you have to remove the rear sight.

 

[olivs260]

They have notoriously bad triggers. You can either shoot the crap out of it, and supposedly they will "break in" after a while, or you can install the DCAEK from Apex. IMO this kit is mandatory with any M&P. Installation is a breeze, just be a little careful when you remove the rear sights. Apex has some good installation videos.

https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid35.html

 

[rcm192]

Apex apex apex!

 

[JR1572]

Y'all can keep them M&P's. I think it's ridiculous that you need to replace all those parts with APEX parts.

My Glock still has it's original guts.

JR1572

 

[Leadfoot]

I just picked up a Shield and although I like the gun, the thought of spending another $100 to de-**** the trigger... Not happening.

 

[SpeedRacer]

I just picked up a Shield and although I like the gun, the thought of spending another $100 to de-**** the trigger... Not happening.

You don't *have* to. The trigger really smooths up after ~500rds. To make it even better on a budget, just polishing the striker plunger, trigger bar loop and sear will dramatically improve the pull. The Apex kit takes that a step further by lightening things up and giving you a shorter trigger pull and much crisper break. It's far from a necessity but it makes for a damn nice trigger.

 

[ChrisK]

I'm pretty sure they improved the trigger on the shields. But I don't know for sure because I'm still trying to buy one!

 

[Boothkicker]

Thanks for the info. I'll probably try the polishing method first. Going to be taking the gun apart for cerakote/duracoat here soon so I'll have all the parts out anyhow.

 

[Leadfoot]

I just picked up the Shield yesterday, and although I have not fired it yet, I have been dry firing the **** out of it.

I owned an M&P 9 when they first came out, however many years ago, and I have to say that the trigger in the Shield feels MUCH better than that early 9 did.

 

[Skiney]

I just picked up a Shield and although I like the gun, the thought of spending another $100 to de-**** the trigger... Not happening.

Man I wish I had a GREAT HIGH PAYING JOB like some folks on here that buy new guns seems like every week.

Enjoy your Shield BIG MONEY:}

 

[Leadfoot]

Man I wish I had a GREAT HIGH PAYING JOB like some folks on here that buy new guns seems like every week.

Enjoy your Shield BIG MONEY:}

My stable don't hold many horses. If one comes in, another one has to leave.

 

[Sin-ster]

Unfortunately, there's about eleventy jillion things that can cause grit in the M&P trigger. Though Speed is right-- if it's during the earliest part of the take up, it's probably the striker block and the subsequent plunger on the bar. (That block is STUPID square at the shoulder, unlike the relatively round one on everything else. The APEX replacement and any decent trigger job leaves it a polished dome shape, just for reference.)

You may also have grit between: the trigger bar loop and the sear, the sides of the sear and the sear housing (seen it especially in the newer versions), the sear spring cap and the sear, the sear spring and the sear housing, the rear of the trigger bar and the sear housing, the striker block and the slide itself, the striker block spring and the striker block...

It's a shame that the guns need work, or at least extensive running in, out of the box. A lot of it could be cleared up from the factory, and truth be told... the APEX parts are nothing if not evidence that S&W could make the gun that sweet before it even left their hands. (Drop in stuff, after all.)

That said, once all of that's taken care of... they're really hard to argue against as a very solid and sweet shooting polymer duty/carry gun.

FYI-- if you know anything at all about firearms, or mechanics for that matter, the guns are stupid simple to work on. There are several .pdf and video references out there to help you along. I'd highly suggest going with the SSS replacement hard sear if you're going to do any stoning/cutting though, as that crappy silver MiM one the guns come with now will NOT stand up to much work... or hold a shape for very long.

 

[Leadfoot]

Boy, did I goof mentioning that I have a Shield.

The vultures are already circling. Could it be my reputation?

 

[rcm192]

Boy, did I goof mentioning that I have a Shield.

The vultures are already circling. Could it be my reputation?

That's why I didn't mention mine! Dave in LAF had one on the shelf on friday 4/26, 9mm...$425 if i remember right.

Even though they improved the trigger on the Shield, I still want Apex parts in it. I REALLY want a metal trigger for it like they make for the original M&P series... (im used to shooting glocks with the a similar trigger safety)

 

[mpl006]

For the northern vultures, I was at bass pro in bossier yesterday and they had one out on display for 449. Not sure how many they had total in stock. Just saw the one.

I'm in the same boat too of like the trigger so far but have only been able to dry fire so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[olivs260]

I just picked up a Shield and although I like the gun, the thought of spending another $100 to de-**** the trigger... Not happening.

Hey man if it takes 500 rounds to "break it in" you're spending twice what the DCAEK costs these days.

 

[RoyL]

If you will just go to the range a couple of times I think you will forget that gritty feel you get when you mess with the trigger at home. It has zero effect, and if yours is anything like my 9C, it will be flawless in operation. I have put 400 or 500 rounds through mine and I forgot about it the first time I took it to the range. The trigger is what it was designed to be, and people can talk about Apex all they want, the stock trigger is excellent for rapid fire and accuracy. I wouldn't spend 10 cents to change it.

 

[Leadfoot]

Hey man if it takes 500 rounds to "break it in" you're spending twice what the DCAEK costs these days.

The more I dry fire the Shield, the less I want to do anything to the trigger. There's no gritty take up. What take up there is isn't long, like on a Kahr for instance.

It doesn't really stack either. It takes up and then it breaks. Clean break. It's almost like a 2 stage trigger. I've finally got a day off tomorrow and if I do nothing else all day, I will be shooting my Shield and I have high hopes for it and the trigger.

We'll see... Otherwise, get your Benji-greens together, all ya'll that texted and PM'd and called me.

 

[RoyL]

The more I dry fire the Shield, the less I want to do anything to the trigger. There's no gritty take up. What take up there is isn't long, like on a Kahr for instance.

It doesn't really stack either. It takes up and then it breaks. Clean break. It's almost like a 2 stage trigger. I've finally got a day off tomorrow and if I do nothing else all day, I will be shooting my Shield and I have high hopes for it and the trigger.

We'll see... Otherwise, get your Benji-greens together, all ya'll that texted and PM'd and called me.

Don't worry about that trigger. I have a new Sig M11-A1, and that thing is as smooth as silk. But at the range, I am more accurate with the M&P 9C. Of course I am just getting used to the Sig trigger action (it popped my cherry for DA/SA), and it is getting better and better, but still, when I'm shooting these two I don't really notice the difference, other than trigger pull weight. When you put rounds down range I bet you will like it. They should put a lock on M&Ps that can only be removed at the range when you have a round in the chamber. Messing with it at home kinda gets in your head. Don't let it. It will be fine.