Tips on Duracoating

[mukwah]

Guess I just had good luck on my Savage. Just followed the instructions. Oh well, gonna try it again on a old High Standard .22 pump I'm refurbishing. Let you know how it turns out.

 

[bigjakewelch]

The one on the bottom was the latest. I've had really good results from it. As long as you stay within the perimeters of the directions it works well.

 

[rockmup]

I've used it 2x with not so good success, as have many others. I have refinished many firearms, with everything from hot blue, to wally world rattle-can.

Troy, I'm not picking an e-fight with you but I'll say that something must have gone wrong.

I've done over 1K weapons and thousands of parts an pieces, non gun items etc. I've never had a coating failure of any kind.

My personal pistol had at 1K draws from a kydex holster with no wear on the slide before I re coated it. It's now close to that again.

I'd love to see or hear what your problem with it was.

Heck even Bambam has switched to it.

 

[shamrock]

I have had good success with Duracoat after a light blasting with aluminum oxide. After talking to the Duracoat guys they do not recommend degreasing after blasting they recommend degreasing and then blasting, blowing clean, and painting. I also found that modeling clay works well in the action for sealing the parts you do not want blast media or paint in. It is not dificult to remove after the paint has completely cured you can use gun scrubber etd.

 

[troy_mclure]

Troy, I'm not picking an e-fight with you but I'll say that something must have gone wrong.

I've done over 1K weapons and thousands of parts an pieces, non gun items etc. I've never had a coating failure of any kind.

My personal pistol had at 1K draws from a kydex holster with no wear on the slide before I re coated it. It's now close to that again.

I'd love to see or hear what your problem with it was.

Heck even Bambam has switched to it.

It just didn't harden up well either time. I followed the directions to the letter.

 

[rockmup]

It just didn't harden up well either time. I followed the directions to the letter.

Never, ever heard of that before. There are times I don't even use the hardner and never had that happen. Though I always heat cure it at 200* for at least 1 hr and then you can feel free to assemble.
I'd say it's more likely you got a bad bottle of product. It does happen sometimes

 

[troy_mclure]

It's possible, about the time I used it there was a pretty big group of people online having issues.

 

[JP762]

Dura coat is garbage, use Cerakote. I've seen duracoat rust, wear, etc. Cerakote on the other won't. The ceramic is a far superior product

 

[Gunfighter]

I redid an old single barrel Stevens with a product called Aluma Hyde. Brownell's sells it in rattle can. Goes on like spray paint, room temp cure and hard as nails. I used their gray color but they have others. Around $11 for a 12 oz can. More than enough to do just about any firearm.

 

[rockmup]

Dura coat is garbage, use Cerakote. I've seen duracoat rust, wear, etc. Cerakote on the other won't. The ceramic is a far superior product

I'd like to see pictures of the rusting Duracoat. wow

 

[mukwah]

Duracoat won't rust if proper surface prep is done prior to coating. This is a quality product recommend and used by a lot of top gunsmith shops along with ceracoat.

 

[BayouArms]

We have coated several shotguns that have been used heavily in water areas and have never heard of it rusting or corroding. Both cerakote and DuraCoat have their place in the market but DuraCoat is by no means an inferior product and if applied properly will stand up to just about anything you throw at it. You have to make sure the item is grease free and is properly sanded. Like rockmup said baking at a low temp helps a great deal. Parkerizing also provides a great base for the Duracoat to adhere to and makes it last even longer. If you have any questions give us a call and we would be happy to help anyway we can.