Want to start reloading.

[LouisianaRebel]

I'm really interested in starting reloading. I figure this addiction of shooting isn't going away and isn't helping my wallet so I should start.
Tomorrow I'm going to go to Louisiana Gun & Reloading Supply to talk to them.
I will mostly do .308, .223, 9mm, and maybe .45 but mostly .223 and 9mm.
I was looking at this kit http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp;jsessionid=Q1BJZ5504EJUDLAQBBISCO3MCAEFEIWE?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat602007-cat20728-cat20847_TGP&id=0018937214924a&navCount=6&podId=0018937&parentId=cat20847&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=9IS&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20847&hasJS=true&_requestid=166868
And i know i need some books, manuals, and dies.
What do y'all think? Any advice?

 

[Sin-ster]

I was thinking of getting into it as well, and got two very solid pieces of advice.

1) (Discovered through web browsing.) You'll do yourself a favor by getting with an experienced reloader. Advice, hands-on experience and general mistakes to avoid that you'll otherwise have to learn the hard way are all bennefits.

2) (First thing the experienced reloader I sought out said.) Reloading is more of a hobby than a way to save money. It takes time, especially when you're first starting out. That's time that could be spent shooting, or making more money. When you run the calculations, you're actually losing money by reloading if you could be working in the process. The main point-- reload as a hobby, not strictly for the economic aspects.

The second tip is obviously reliant on what calibers and for what purposes you are reloading. If you want super-accurate, custom match loads, reloading is the obvious way to go. By the same token, if you are reloading rare and expensive cartridges, you actually are saving money and making available ammunition that you might not be able to find from the factory. (.308, .223, 9mm and .45 don't qualify, however.)

Obviously, I'm not saying that you shouldn't reload. Just trying to pass on some perspective that was imparted to me. Have fun, whatever you decide!

 

[LouisianaRebel]

Thanks for the info, did you ever get into it?

I think once i got good at it i would reload some for my dads guns that use weird and expensive ammo like .375 for lever guns and other stuff.

It wouldn't be just for saving money, its something i would like to do as a hobby and a good skill to learn. I don't know anyone else that reloads, if i did i would be stuck on them like white on rice learning how to.
That's why i'm going to that place tomorrow.

 

[charliepapa]

I'm really interested in starting reloading. I figure this addiction of shooting isn't going away and isn't helping my wallet so I should start.

Tomorrow I'm going to go to Louisiana Gun & Reloading Supply to talk to them.

What do y'all think? Any advice?

If you're going to LA Gun, you'll see the Dillons (the blue stuff) which is what we have. We haven't started yet but that seems to be the preferred brand of equipment on this board. Good luck.

 

[Richard in LA]

while the rockchucker kit is very nice, think hard about a dillon 550b. I have a single stage press, and use it for loading stuff such as .300 win mag, .30-06 and other calibers I don't shoot in much volume. 9mm, .357, .223, etc. you can crank out a bunch of quality handloads in short time on a 550, not to mention they have the best warranty in the business.

Also, in addition to that kit, you will need a tumbler, a set of calipers, dies/shellholders, case trimmer, another manual or 2

 

[mikepizz]

dillon 650

 

[beauxdog]

You can count on reloaded ammo saving ~ 50% over the cost of factory fresh. If you shoot a lot then I would look at the Dillon equipment. It is not the cheapest but will save a ton of time and will put out enough ammo to keep you going. For me and my money, you can't beat the DL-550. Will load about 500 rounds an hour (with practice), can load both rifle and pistol calibers and is very easy to swap from one caliber to another and maintain. If you do own anything yet and need to purchase everything it is going to cost you close to $700 to get started with this kind of set-up in one caliber. We are talking machine, scale, reloading book, tools and dies. But is money well spent. i know some folks are gonna jump all over what I am saying in here but I've been there and have seen it several times. You can buy quality once and be happy or buy junk and have to pay twice. Your choice.

Never heard of someone buying a Dillon machine and saying they made a mistake.

Beauxdog

 

[drumz2129]

I started out about a year and a half ago. I know two experienced reloaders who helped point me in the right direction on where to start. I was looking at a Dillon 650 and a Hornady LNL AP. They both recommended starting out on a single stage press to learn the basics then work up to a progressive press. I went with the same press you have listed along with the RCBS accessory kit: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=217150
One book you should really consider getting is the ABCs of Reloading. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0024487619831a.shtml It is not a reloading manual with load data. It is more of a very thorough step by step guide to metallic and shot shell reloading with a lot of history in it.

The way I see it, there is a difference between 'reloading' and 'hand loading'. Reloading is mainly to save money and be able to shoot more. The loads may or many not be as exact as if each one was individually handloaded but will be as uniform if not better than factory ammo. This is good for plinking and being able to restock fairly quickly. Handloading is a more tedious approach, where each the charge weight is monitored more closely, sometimes each charge is weighed out individually, and the COAL is held to a close tolerance. This is usually done for hunting, target, and match loads. I reload for all my pistol cartridges, and handload for my rifle cartridges (not always for the .223).

I think once i got good at it i would reload some for my dads guns that use weird and expensive ammo like .375 for lever guns and other stuff.

From that statement I would say start with a single stage and eventually get a progressive press so that you will be able to do the 'weird and expensive ammo' along with your common stuff.

 

[CloudStrife]

Look on gunbroker (or here) for once-fired cases. You'll save money over new cases easily.

 

[Leadslugga]

I have to say that reloading, even on a single stage press, will definitely save you money. For example, I can turn out about 100 rounds per hour on my rock chucker. .45 ACP costs what, like $20 a box these days? If you load jacketed bullets, you can probably load them for around $10 a box. That means you would have to make $20 an hour at a job to go with factory. If you cast bullets (which I would highly recommend for handguns (unless you rock a glock), you can get your costs down to under $5 a box. So unless you make over $30 an hour, reloading is cheaper. With a progressive press, it is 5x faster, so you are saving yourself even more money/time.

Do it. Shooting a lot without reloading is dumb. Also, you'll be the guy among all your shooting friends who actually knows the most about everything. You can tell all novice shooters/gun owners "yeah, I make all my own ammo." Makes you feel good.

To me, there is nothing like the feeling of punching tight groups in paper with bullets that you cast yourself and loaded yourself to your own specifications. It is a thing of beauty.

 

[Storm52]

Grab a copy of The ABCs of Reloading, make the trip to the sporting goods place, take a hard look at Dillon's equipment and start purchasing supplies online. I've reloaded for years on single stage for Weatherby 270mag and 38/357. Once I purchased a Dillon SDB for 45, I was hooked on progressive machines. It is a great hobby, but one that you do alone...no distractions, no interuptions and something you do when you can set aside the time. Enjoy and be safe, have more than one loading manual, download information from bullet mfg websites and ask questions. This is great place to have them answered along with bryan enos's forum.

 

[mike308]

Reloading is like any hobby/sport there is a learning curve and an equipment learning list. Depending on your interest and available funds will determine a lot about direction. Are you loading pistol or rifle? How many rounds do you intend to reload? These question need to be discussed.

With a kit you can get everything you need to get started. If you really get into reloading much of the kit will get tossed. But it is not wasted as you will learn basics and get an understanding of what you are doing. As you learn and get better at reloading there are more advanced equipment purchases that will amke life easy and reduce your time per round reloaded.

My first 100 rounds probably took me 3-4 hours after I hand trimmed and preped brass, hand primed, tried to weigh chargesand adjust weight, adjust dies, then seat bullets, measure and reseat. Now I can charge and load 100 rounds for highpower competion in about 35-40 minutes with the same single stage press. Brass prep take about 5-7 minutes for 100 rounds with the power trimmer and case prep equipment. I prime with a bench primer when time permit priming 100-200 rounds in 15 minutes or less.

With a progressive press I watched Dan load 100 rounds of 308 in about 10 minutes. So you can get better and quicker with a high degree of accuracy as you learn and get speciality equipment. My 223 match loads are still costing me under $0.20/round even with the run up in component cost. factory match ammo is cost $0.60-$1.00 per rond so I doing 3-5 rounds equivilant.

 

[LouisianaRebel]

I will more than likely go with a single stage press, the dillion 650 sure does look nice though..
I'm hoping my step dad will donate some for me to get one since i would be making them for him.
Should i pick my first reloading round for a gun that has the least chance of kabooming?

 

[Barney88PDC]

Follow the manuals and you should not have a kaboom. Also I would advise against the 650 for doing multiple calibers. The 550B is a better choice for multiple calibers. The caliber conversions are cheaper and quicker to set up. The 650 is geared for mass production of one caliber. Not that you can't change over but if you are going to change calibers often then it may not be best. Trust me you would be happy with the 550B.

Also I would stay away from the Dillion SBD for 2 reasons. One you only can do pistol calibers on it and not rifle as well. So your plans of loading .223 and .308 could not be done on that machine. Second the threads are not the standard 7/8" threads so only Dillon dies for the Dillon SBD work in that press. So those dies would not work on say a single stage or even a Dillion 550B, 650, or 1050. They would ONLY work in the SBD.

Basicly what equipment would be best is going to depend on what quanity of ammo you are wanting to load each month. And how much cash you have to spend to get started. Like others have said, buy once cry once. I started out on a 550B and if you pay attention to what you are doing it is fine. I would not be scared away from a progressive to start. (Atleast if you can remain focused and pay attention to detail. If you cannot then reloading may not be for you). As far as cost I have always been of the opinion to save until I could buy what I wanted, than buy something to get started and later upgrade to what I wanted in the first place. I would be happy to talk over the phone if you would like.

 

[sraiford]

My $.02. If i had the money, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that a Dillon is the way to go!!! But I don't have the money. That's why I bought a Lee Progressive 1000. I bought it for $163 from www.kempfgunshop.com. I've been loading 9mm, 40, .38, and .380. And yes it saves a ton of money. Currently I can load 1000rnds of 9mm for about $110 or less and can also load the elusive .380 for about the same. Now there is always extras you buy put the LEE is quite inexpensive...to get started. I know that in the up and coming years I will buy a Dillon, there is no doubt, but to get started the LEE is inexpensive and safe.

OH and what ever you do... Get a reloading book, read it, live by it!

 

[Bam Bam]

Anyone us or have expirence with the Lee Pro 1000 progressive press?


http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=347040


Didn't see the post above till I posted. Thanks for the info sraiford!



Bam Bam

 

[CloudStrife]

Anyone us or have expirence with the Lee Pro 1000 progressive press?


http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=347040






Bam Bam

That's what I use. I've only reloaded 9mm so far on it. The primer dispenser is kind of finicky, but if you make sure it's not clogged, it works. Occasionally a bullet does sit uniformly in the case (forms an obvious bulge on one side), but I'm not sure if this is the bullet going in crooked or the seating die not seating correctly.

 

[captain-03]

I, too, recommend the Dillion; HOWEVER, if you have never reloaded before and do not have a mentor ... I would suggest starting with the single stage. It will be much easier to learn the basics with and permit you to apply what you read in a much easier way. You can upgrade later ... but you will always find a use for the single stage press ... Most all how have a Dillion also have a single stage or progressive press sitting at the bench also ...

 

[dzelenka]

That RCBS kit that you are looking at would be a great way to start. It is good quality and would be what I would consider a "buy once, cry once" purchase for a single stage set up. Mine has been in continuous operation for over 30 years. I would not consider being without it. In addition to the RCBS, I have a Dillon RL450 (ancestor of the RL550B). Due to the volume of my shooting in some calibers, I would not be without it either. You really cannot go wrong with either the Dillon or the RCBS, but I do believe the RCBS would be easier for a beginner. It allows you to pay attention to one operation at a time and is not that slow, especially with rifle calibers (most rifle shooters who load match grade ammunition on a Dillon, size, deprime and even prime as a separate operation from charging and seating the bullet - not using it as a true progressive).

 

[dzelenka]

Also, I read a lot about savings after amortizing the cost of the equipment. You do not have to amortize the cost of the equipment (certainly not all of it) to realize savings. Used equipment has a value that you will recoup if you decide to sell it (better quality holds its value more). Equipment is a capital purchase not an expense and if you treat it as such you will realize that you are saving money on a per round basis quite early in the process.