ar front site removal

[hunterjwm]

I would like to take off my front site to put a scope on my my ar. Can I put a gas block on and keep my MOE 2 piece hand guard

 

[slowhandlukem]

.,,

 

[noob]

I would like to take off my front site to put a scope on my my ar. Can I put a gas block on and keep my MOE 2 piece hand guard

yes you can replace the front sight post gas block w/ a low profile or railed gasblock and still keep the MOE hand guards. as long as you retain that cap behind the front sight, it'll keep the hand guards in.

 

[Sin-ster]

Notes:

Be careful what gas block you replace it with, and who you have put it all together. If the gas port doesn't line up properly, or the block itself walks/twists/shifts, you're going to be SOL with a single-shot AR. It's a bigger PITA to fix than it is to do properly the first time.

A pinned replacement would be ideal-- but you're probably not going to have that happen. While many prefer the set screw types and lament the clamp ons, some independent and rigorous tests (MM's comes to mind) have illustrated that you will actually torque the barrel nut off before you can move a properly set, properly made clamp-on gas block-- that's been properly installed.

Avoid aluminum; it'll take and dissipate heat at a different rate than the barrel, and the warping that results is the easiest way to shift the block.
Avoid vertical clamps; the way they seal to the barrel isn't as solid as the lateral/horizontal versions (in the vast majority of cases).
Set and torque the screws properly, with the highest grade Loctite you can stand. There's argument about the effects of the heat and whether or not it makes a difference-- but it won't hurt.

Or... you can just shave the FSB down, until you're satisfied with the height or so that it'll fit under a longer section of rail. I've seen this done to great effect in several instances, and if you're careful, it will actually come out relatively aesthetically pleasing. This is also the most surefire method to ensure proper functioning of the rifle, as you'll be hard pressed to screw it up enough to choke the gas system.

 

[scooterj]

Or... you can just shave the FSB down, until you're satisfied with the height or so that it'll fit under a longer section of rail. I've seen this done to great effect in several instances, and if you're careful, it will actually come out relatively aesthetically pleasing. This is also the most surefire method to ensure proper functioning of the rifle, as you'll be hard pressed to screw it up enough to choke the gas system.

This is the way to go.

 

[Sin-ster]

This is the way to go.

From the sound of things, I'm gonna agree. If you're just looking to drop the profile of the FSB, it's the best solution.

 

[rabiddawg]

I took a dremel to mine and cut it off. Then I shaped it the way I wanted and painted it with some primer. I mixed black and white until I had a color the matched my rifle very close.

 

[LA_LEO]

Notes:
Or... you can just shave the FSB down, until you're satisfied with the height or so that it'll fit under a longer section of rail. I've seen this done to great effect in several instances, and if you're careful, it will actually come out relatively aesthetically pleasing. This is also the most surefire method to ensure proper functioning of the rifle, as you'll be hard pressed to screw it up enough to choke the gas system.

You can use Perma Blue or a high heat black paint to cover the bare metal.

 

[gunz4me]

The thought of hammering out those reverse taper pins brings back some not so fond memories of hammering and cursing before they finally broke free. I'd sooner swap the barrel before I attempt to remove the FSB again.

 

[SpeedRacer]

The thought of hammering out those reverse taper pins brings back some not so fond memories of hammering and cursing before they finally broke free. I'd sooner swap the barrel before I attempt to remove the FSB again.

I've done a few BCM's, which are notoriously tight. It's all in the technique. Put the FSB on a block of wood on the floor (garage/driveway works best for obvious reasons). Use a nice fat punch to start, I actually prefer a large nail set as the concave tip helps stay on the pin. Give it one solid whack with a mini-maul or heavy hammer. A little Kroil or PB Blaster ahead of time time can help as well. I've never needed more than two whacks to break them loose.

The key is getting all of the force transferred into the pin, which doesn't work well on a table or workbench.

 

[Sin-ster]

The thought of hammering out those reverse taper pins brings back some not so fond memories of hammering and cursing before they finally broke free. I'd sooner swap the barrel before I attempt to remove the FSB again.

As Speed indicated, some of them are "worse" (better?) than others, in terms of the removal.

If you run across one that's easy to pop out, you'll start to question just how secure ANY of them are...