Electrical nerds, take a look.

[Splash]

I put a good analog meter on and found that at idle we are looking at 5 volts ac and at full throttle we are looking at +30VAC.

So then this coil is not regulated. If I were to wire in a regulator/rectifier could I make this work? I know the purpose is to convert the voltage from AC/DC as it is going to flow through diodes. I just don't know if the output would be the same voltage in DC current.

The regulator will regulate the voltage and the rectifier will convert it to DC.

 

[SirIsaacNewton]

this might help if your ATV doesn't have a voltage regulator (shunt). If it does then it should be replaced. http://www.3wheeler.org/vb/archive/index.php/t-39935.html I would love to see a wiring diagram.

So what it sounds like from that forum and your confirmed voltage fluctuations meter readings the solutions are:

1. Get the specific wattage bulb for your ATV (if no voltage regulator is present)
2. Replace the voltage regulator

Let us know how this works out.

 

[dantheman]

I feel vindicated .

 

[MRBULLRED]

How can a bike create ac current? Did you have the multimeter on dc when you were testing the rpm for voltage? If the voltage was doing what you say, even a 75 watt bulb would blow. I think there may be some bad testing going on...

 

[Yrdawg]

I feel vindicated .

Is vindicated like arrogant ???

 

[SirIsaacNewton]

I feel vindicated .

You should you had it all figured out from the beginning. If I where you I would pat myself on the back and go get a brewsky.

 

[dantheman]

Is vindicated like arrogant ???

Nope . Not in my mind .

 

[CrkdLtr]

I did some browsing for ATV Voltage Regulators and came across an article that said if you "upgraded" to a 75w coil or higher, then you would need a regulator to keep from "popping bulbs like popcorn."

How can a bike create ac current? Did you have the multimeter on dc when you were testing the rpm for voltage? If the voltage was doing what you say, even a 75 watt bulb would blow. I think there may be some bad testing going on...

Simple - you have a coil of copper wire and when a magnet passes over it it creates alternating current. Same as your car's alternator. A diode is what changes AC (alternating current) to DC (direct current). In this old bike's case, it doesn't have a battery so it just uses the raw power from the coil.

 

[dantheman]

How can a bike create ac current? Did you have the multimeter on dc when you were testing the rpm for voltage? If the voltage was doing what you say, even a 75 watt bulb would blow. I think there may be some bad testing going on...

The same way your automotive alternator creates AC current . A rotating magnetic field . Then they use bridge rectifiers to convert it to DC .

EDIT --Sorry . You beat me to it . ^^^

 

[MRBULLRED]

Thanks, you learn somethin new everyday..

 

[themcfarland]

would adding another light , even aftermarket that would handle the wide input range help?

 

[herohog]

No, you need a regulator paired to the output of your "alternator". Adding lights WILL soak up the extra amps BUT that is not the way to address the actual issue which is the wildly fluctuating voltage/amperage.

 

[edman87k5]

Ouch, my head stings after reading some of this stuff.
1: your atv and its lights are DC
2: a bulb rated for 35 watts will use up to 35 watts, even if there is a million watts available, but if you feed it more than about 15 volts, it will blow
3: you are overcomplicating this issue, get a volt meter(digital can be had for under $5) and see what voltage you are getting. I would imagine you are working on an 80s model pull/ kick start 3 wheeler. There are some exact specs out there, but while revving it, it should peak at no more than 14 volts. You do NOT need to put a resistor or anything in the line. The reason it only came with a 35watt or whatever output stator is that is all that was needed as it was set up from the factory, the upgraded output is so you can run more/ more powerful lights/ accys.

 

[CrkdLtr]

Ouch, my head stings after reading some of this stuff.
1: your atv and its lights are DC
2: a bulb rated for 35 watts will use up to 35 watts, even if there is a million watts available, but if you feed it more than about 15 volts, it will blow
3: you are overcomplicating this issue, get a volt meter(digital can be had for under $5) and see what voltage you are getting. I would imagine you are working on an 80s model pull/ kick start 3 wheeler. There are some exact specs out there, but while revving it, it should peak at no more than 14 volts. You do NOT need to put a resistor or anything in the line. The reason it only came with a 35watt or whatever output stator is that is all that was needed as it was set up from the factory, the upgraded output is so you can run more/ more powerful lights/ accys.

Yeah, we've come past that already.

I understand about the wattage issue. It's power available not power being pushed. It is most definitely AC voltage as the wire comes off the stator and straight into the switch and then to the lights. It never goes though the CDI or any kind of diode or rectifier to convert it to DC. (Nor have I ever been shocked by DC voltage when I brush up a hot wire ) I did buy a nice analog volt meter to do away with the auto-ranging of a digital meter and did find that it would go as high as 30volts at a high throttle. I finally came across an article indicating if you upgraded to a higher wattage coil that you would need a regulator since the voltage would go much higher. So it definitely needs a regulator.

Since I've already bought the rectifier, I might as well start planning out a circuit project to do away with the original lighting system and setup a 12v DC system & battery so I can run a more "current" lighting system with LED's. This way it's brighter and pulls less power so the make-shift charging system can keep up somewhat.

 

[shoalsfugro]

Look at a Zenor diode works like a regulator.

 

[edman87k5]

You must have some trick electrics then, because ac current wont power a dc bulb.

 

[dantheman]

You must have some trick electrics then, because ac current wont power a dc bulb.

Your forgetting about the rectifier part .

 

[CrkdLtr]

Your forgetting about the rectifier part .

You must have some trick electrics then, because ac current wont power a dc bulb.

Here's the wiring diagram.

Should help to understand how it's AC.

 

[dantheman]

You must have some trick electrics then, because ac current wont power a dc bulb.

Define DC bulb . If it's a filament type of bulb , it will work with either . I do it all the time at work .

 

[Guate_shooter]

MIght be me, but I dont see where we continue to argue on an issue that has been resolved by the OP already!

As the OP mentioned above I would upgrade the current setup since you will have to do some dirty work anyways this way you can be out of the cave age and run better electronics that are more energy eff.