Help Needed: AR 15 mods

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  • thperez1972

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    So you consider an optic a modification?

    Given that it's a budget rifle, slap a Vortex Sparc on it and call it a day. Save yourself $800.

    The OP considers it a modification as evidenced by his original post. He mentioned a trigger job and a red dot specifically along with a general "other." The general consensus is if he's going to modify the rifle, do it in a way that can be undone so the mods can be moved to an upgraded rifle. I can't remember anyone suggesting anything like changing the barrel or bolt carrier group.
     

    leadslinger972

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    The OP considers it a modification as evidenced by his original post. He mentioned a trigger job and a red dot specifically along with a general "other." The general consensus is if he's going to modify the rifle, do it in a way that can be undone so the mods can be moved to an upgraded rifle. I can't remember anyone suggesting anything like changing the barrel or bolt carrier group.

    Changing a trigger is more radical than adding an optic.

    I'm not going to argue semantics. I've already given my suggestion, on top of my suggestion to sell it.
     

    thperez1972

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    Oh hey look Perez... someone suggested something similar on the 4th post, yet you chose to question my opinion instead...

    The second post suggested something similar as well. It's not your opinion that's the issue. Although I can't say I agree with it, selling the rifle and using the money for a "premium" rifle is a viable option. The issue is presenting your option as the only viable option while consistently dismissing any opinion you don't like or that doesn't measure up to your standards.
     

    leadslinger972

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    The second post suggested something similar as well. It's not your opinion that's the issue. Although I can't say I agree with it, selling the rifle and using the money for a "premium" rifle is a viable option. The issue is presenting your option as the only viable option while consistently dismissing any opinion you don't like or that doesn't measure up to your standards.

    I don't recall dismissing anyone's opinion.

    You replied to my post directly and started this argument.
     

    thperez1972

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    I don't recall dismissing anyone's opinion.

    You replied to my post directly and started this argument.

    You did in the post I directly replied to. That's why my post started an argument. I disagreed with the "fact" you presented. If your post was simply an opinion, my post would have been the same and wouldn't have started an argument.
     

    leadslinger972

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    You did in the post I directly replied to. That's why my post started an argument. I disagreed with the "fact" you presented. If your post was simply an opinion, my post would have been the same and wouldn't have started an argument.

    I further reinforced my opinion.

    If you don't like it, tough ****.

    340six, if you're going to edit my post, you might want to notice that Perez quoted my original post.
     
    Last edited:

    AustinBR

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    Can't we all just be happy and not argue with each other.

    double-facepalm-when-one-facepalm-simply-isnt-enough.jpg
     

    340six

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    I am not even sure what's going on here.
     

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    jdindadell

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    I often (not always) change my buffer tube (receiver extension would be the correct term, just in case anyone is going to question my intelligence) after 100-150 rounds. I consider it a wear item.

    Polishing the weights inside the buffer will also help out the polar moment of inertia as well, a critical, but often overlooked aspect of any DI rifle (thats direct impingement, btw). No need to go over 600 grit, just make sure the polish direction is not arranged axially as it will cause weight rotation, which can result in undesired weapon torque and that can be difficult to account for, especially during rapid follow up shots. No need to make shooting difficult!

    Another critical mod would be to re-clock the flash hider or muzzle device to account for longitude/latitude. This depends n the physical location of the rifle on the planet, but there are plenty of charts showing the needed changes. Jut use the internets, or consult a range master, as they know everything.

    Consider replacing the loctite on any screws each time you clean, charge and/or handle the weapon. Nothing lasts forever, even cold November rain.

    Not a critical mod, but I do like to put my initials and address on all of the takedown pin detents, and safety detents, just in case they fall out and someone else finds them. That way they can be returned to their rightful owner. Keeping honest people honest, I say! Color coding the springs helps too, just in case you find yourself having to mess with them in the dark.

    I also bed all of the stocks on my ar rifles. Helps with precision shooting, and offers rock solid storage in many compatible gun safes. Check your mfg info on the website, it will be helpful, just like this post.

    Happy Shooting!
     

    CAJUNLAWYER

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    What makes a top shelf rifle better than a budget rifle? I mean if I can shoot offhand with open sights and keep my rounds in a 8" circle with my budget rifle why do I need upgrades?????. If I want to bench rest with a .223 I'm gonna use a bolt action with a Leopold 1.5 x 5.
     

    thperez1972

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    What makes a top shelf rifle better than a budget rifle? I mean if I can shoot offhand with open sights and keep my rounds in a 8" circle with my budget rifle why do I need upgrades?????. If I want to bench rest with a .223 I'm gonna use a bolt action with a Leopold 1.5 x 5.

    OMG. Are you trying to get the angry elitist all riled up?
     

    jdindadell

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    What makes a top shelf rifle better than a budget rifle?

    Materials, coatings and design tweaks. QC can be attached to a "Quality Brand". Certain mfgs are able to provide a "known quality" and that is enough for many buyers. Also brand loyalty and preference can determine a top shelf mfg. Experience and customer service rank highly as well.

    However, many perceived top shelf products are running purely on name alone, ie harley davidson and general motors...

    It can be hard to sift through the bs and make an informed choice.
     

    leadslinger972

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    Materials, coatings and design tweaks. QC can be attached to a "Quality Brand". Certain mfgs are able to provide a "known quality" and that is enough for many buyers. Also brand loyalty and preference can determine a top shelf mfg. Experience and customer service rank highly as well.

    To add, quality control is a huge part of what makes a quality rifle. Many lower tier manufacturers have issues with tolerance stacking, poor machining, and minimal quality assurance.

    Out of three Anderson lowers that I have had, all three were out of spec. The first two had sloppy trigger pockets, while the third had out of spec pivot pin lugs. The result was poor trigger/hammer fit, which lead to a wobbling trigger, and the oversize lugs would not allow a standard delta ring assembly to seat properly. Even the beloved Aero Precision lowers have had their flaws. I have one currently that has varying wall thickness on either side of the trigger pocket.

    Does that matter to everyone? Probably not, but for someone to say a low end rifle is comparable to a top tier manufacturer is factually incorrect.

    Perez may think that's elitism, but I wouldn't want a precision instrument built by a blacksmith.
     

    Magdump

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    1c13fafce17d479beab202068c64a39b.jpg

    When I saw these hit $39 shipped on amazon last month I bought 2 more. With a $10 mini riser, these are some great red dots. The most I’ve ever paid for one was 70 bucks but I’ve seen them priced at well over 100. Besides using them myself I’ve seen them mentioned in several favorable reviews and they’ve also gone to bat against some of the top dollar dots in a couple of comparison shootouts. I do own some high dollar optics but I got no problem owning cheap stuff that works.


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