First off, does anyone know for sure how PSA installs their gas blocks? Reason I ask is I purchased an assembled 10.5" 300 BO upper from PSA maybe 2 months ago, with a nitride barrel. It has a 2 setscrew gas block on it. And I'm beginning to question the installation of the setscrew GB. I guess the only way to know for sure is to disassemble the PSA installed GB from the barrel and re-assemble it employing a rock solid technique.
And I recently assembled a complete 18" barreled upper with a FN barrel and an Aero Precision two setscrew GB, and I applied red Loctite (good to 360F yet Henkel states to heat item to 550+ F to loosen) to the set screws. So I'm thinking the best way is to disassemble this barrel/GB and dimple the barrel for one of the setscrews, then re-assemble using either Rocksett or Vibra tite ceramic extreme high temp threadlocker. Both of these are good to 2000F, or so they claim. Knowing that removing the GB in the future probably will not be possible, and accepting that and drill out the setscrews (sacrifice the GB). They say you can soak Rocksett in hot water for hours to loosen the bond, but some report not working very well on small setscrews.
So my question is dimpling barrel for one set screw sufficient? This should keep the GB from ever shifting forward or rotating from whatever forces once both setscrews are locked with Rocksett. Or dimple for both setscrews?
Rocksett or the Vibra tite ceramic high temp thread locker? First hand experience is a plus here.
I also thought about taper pinning the setscrew GBs but I do not have the tools/reamer currently to do this. And dimpling the barrel and using Rocksett on the setscrews seems pretty durable long term.
Also crossed my mind of straight drilling the GB/barrel for a roll pin. I have a pretty nice drill press with an X/Y vise.
from Henkel on line: "When disassembling red threadlocker, the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose."
Shoot, short of FA with numerous mag dumps, red Locktite may be just fine. Iraqveteran888 did a video to kill an Anderson AR15 upper with a M16 lower and it was the gas tube rupturing which caused a total weapon failure in the end. After 830 FA rounds and back to back mag changes. The gas tube and GB was glowing cherry red while the barrel appeared relatively normal. Pretty informative video if you never saw it. Eric is the man!
Suggestions or recommendations?
Here is a link to Eric's "kill the AR-15 upper" video if you want to watch it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSizVpfqFtw&ab_channel=Iraqveteran8888
And I recently assembled a complete 18" barreled upper with a FN barrel and an Aero Precision two setscrew GB, and I applied red Loctite (good to 360F yet Henkel states to heat item to 550+ F to loosen) to the set screws. So I'm thinking the best way is to disassemble this barrel/GB and dimple the barrel for one of the setscrews, then re-assemble using either Rocksett or Vibra tite ceramic extreme high temp threadlocker. Both of these are good to 2000F, or so they claim. Knowing that removing the GB in the future probably will not be possible, and accepting that and drill out the setscrews (sacrifice the GB). They say you can soak Rocksett in hot water for hours to loosen the bond, but some report not working very well on small setscrews.
So my question is dimpling barrel for one set screw sufficient? This should keep the GB from ever shifting forward or rotating from whatever forces once both setscrews are locked with Rocksett. Or dimple for both setscrews?
Rocksett or the Vibra tite ceramic high temp thread locker? First hand experience is a plus here.
I also thought about taper pinning the setscrew GBs but I do not have the tools/reamer currently to do this. And dimpling the barrel and using Rocksett on the setscrews seems pretty durable long term.
Also crossed my mind of straight drilling the GB/barrel for a roll pin. I have a pretty nice drill press with an X/Y vise.
from Henkel on line: "When disassembling red threadlocker, the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose."
Shoot, short of FA with numerous mag dumps, red Locktite may be just fine. Iraqveteran888 did a video to kill an Anderson AR15 upper with a M16 lower and it was the gas tube rupturing which caused a total weapon failure in the end. After 830 FA rounds and back to back mag changes. The gas tube and GB was glowing cherry red while the barrel appeared relatively normal. Pretty informative video if you never saw it. Eric is the man!
Suggestions or recommendations?
Here is a link to Eric's "kill the AR-15 upper" video if you want to watch it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSizVpfqFtw&ab_channel=Iraqveteran8888
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