What is the difference between a $20 gas block and one that costs $50? As stated in another thread I'm going to install a FF handguard and I'm going to need a lo-pro gas block but I can't tell the difference between them. As long as I get one with the correct ID I should be ok shouldn't I? Or does the higher cost one offer something the others don't?
Low profile gas blocks
- Thread starter FTRrookie
- Start date
The Best online firearms community in Louisiana.
Member Benefits:
Fewer Ads! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
franch1se82
Well-Known Member
not really much difference ... you might get a "higher quality" item with the higher price.
but the consensus is to chop your front sight... if aesthetics doesn't bother you that is.
but the consensus is to chop your front sight... if aesthetics doesn't bother you that is.
Bigchillin83
Well-Known Member
I cut my front a2 sight off and used a grinder to smooth the edges, then painted it and the gas tube with flat black high temp BBQ pit paint, I didn't like the look of a shinny gas tube under the Midwest industries ss free float, i love the look of it, it was free, and didnt have to wait for a part to come in...
Last edited:
Bigchillin83
Well-Known Member
View attachment 50311I cut my front a2 sight off and used a grinder to smooth the edges, then painted it and the gas tube with flat black high temp BBQ pit paint, I didn't like the look of a shinny gas tube under the Midwest industries ss free float, i love the look of it, it was free, and didnt have to wait for a part to come in...
in fact i wouldnt have even taken the front sight off if i didnt have to put the MI barrel nut
My rifle doesn't have a front sight on top of the gas block. There's a short picatinny rail that is the same height as the rail on the receiver. Not to mention I might want to put this gun back into it's stock configuration at some point.
Mine was the same, railed gas block.
Replacing the gas block is pretty simple.
The reason for the cost difference is material and machining. Get a steel block, aluminum blocks, being aluminum, have a different expansion rate than steel blocks do,
and they better match the barrels expansion rate.
I replaced my original railed gas block with an MI steel low profile block when I installed my free float hand guard.
SpeedRacer
Well-Known Member
Don't go cheap on your gas block. It's a critical component and I've seen the cheap ones break. Higher quality ones also have better, more reliable attachment methods. And if your barrel is not dimpled for a low-pro gas block, I would recommend having someone dimple the barrel for the set screws or just cutting down your front sight.
gunsmith86
Own the night
Troy and YHM are GTG.
My preference on gas block attachment methods: pinned > clamp-on/pinch > set-screw. There are hundreds of guns using set-screw GB's that have never had a problem though. Some rails don't have enough bottom clearance for the clamp-ons. Use blue loc-tite (or equivalent) on any with screws. If the dimples aren't in the right place, that's way worse than having none.
My preference on gas block attachment methods: pinned > clamp-on/pinch > set-screw. There are hundreds of guns using set-screw GB's that have never had a problem though. Some rails don't have enough bottom clearance for the clamp-ons. Use blue loc-tite (or equivalent) on any with screws. If the dimples aren't in the right place, that's way worse than having none.
I went thru this when I needed a low profile adjustable gas block on a Noveske barrel. I wanted to dimple my barrel but am too tight to send it off. I threaded a roll pin which would screw into the gas block. This was my guide. I did this before I removed the original block so the dimple would be in the right place. I used a 3/32 drill with a stop attached to achieve a dimple and not a hole.
on my last build i used a Troy low profile gas block, no complaints and they make high quality stuff. Not a
bad price on this site........http://www.skdtac.com/Troy-Low-Profile-Gas-Block-p/tro.301.htm
bad price on this site........http://www.skdtac.com/Troy-Low-Profile-Gas-Block-p/tro.301.htm
Last edited:
No disrespect... but some may want something to look a little more professionally done than just dremmeling the front sight off. I understand it's a viable option though.
On my builds, it would bug me that it's just a shaved down A2 sight... but then again that's my OCD.
On my builds, it would bug me that it's just a shaved down A2 sight... but then again that's my OCD.
Speaking of this. 
How hard is it to take the tall front site post off and replace it with just a gas block?
i already inquired about whether the front sight will show up in a scope mounted on a rail under the carry handle I removed. I know the answer was that it will not show up but I am somewhat of a detail worrier.
How hard is it to take the tall front site post off and replace it with just a gas block?i already inquired about whether the front sight will show up in a scope mounted on a rail under the carry handle I removed. I know the answer was that it will not show up but I am somewhat of a detail worrier
.
