Need reloading advice

[blitztech]

Sorry I couldn't make up my mind where to post the question so I figured this was as good a spot as any.

I just finished reading my first book on reloading and am going to purchase a single stage press to get started soon. I really don't need a high quantity of ammo right now. I just want to get the basic concepts working together and produce some decent plinking ammo.

What I wanted to know from those with experience is if starting out on 9mm is any different from starting out on say a .223 or .308. Which of these 3 would be the least difficult for a beginner? Does it not really matter or is one of the three more difficult than the others? Those are the only 3 calibers I use so discussing anything else right now won't really help me. Thanks for any advice

 

[beauxdog]

Start with the 9mm as it will be the eas one to deal with. Loading rifle rounds is a little different in that you have to lube case to resize them and trim the cases. For 9mm you just load it. No need to lube or trim cases. We are holding a reloading class on April 20 for those that want to get started in reloading. It will be geared to the rifle shooter since he will have more step to take to do. The class starts at 0900 and they usually finish around noon. Cost is $40. Call the store at 225-389-6077 if your intrestered.

Thanks,

Bryan Guillory
Louisiana Gun
12728 Jefferson Hwy.

 

[Ijaw]

9mm

 

[blitztech]

Thanks for the replies. I did read about trimming and lubing, but the book was geared to handgun reloading. I'm working on swapping my shift on the 20th, would love to get some hands on in a class like that. I will definitely try to be there.

Any other recommended reads?

 

[frankinola]

start with the 9mm pistol, rifle has more complex steps. Lyman "Reloading Handbook: 49th Edition" Reloading Manual Softcover

 

[troy_mclure]

the newest abc's of reloading is a good read.

 

[nwmousegunner]

I have been reloading both rifle and pistol carridges since the early 1990's. I agree that if it is possible to take a class it would be a great help. I disagree with Bryan about lubing cases. I lightly lube mine with Dillion spray on lube. If you are to take a class I am sure you can find people on this forum that would be willing to help you get started. Good luck Dave

 

[dixiejarhead]

Pistol straight walled cases first. 9mm is easy to reload. I started on a Lee Turret press, kind of like an advanced single stage. Look on youtube for vids of one. If you get carbide dies from lee you won't need to lube pistol casings. I've never trimmed pistol casings either. I've been reloading since 1988. I also cast my own bullets for 9mm and load those too.

 

[blitztech]

Do any of y'all know of anyone in the New Orleans area that stocks reloading supplies? I think I've been everywhere and can't find jack. About to take a trip to Cabelas and look for equipment as I know they carry some.

 

[The_Shadow]

Supplies are almost non existent everywhere locally and you may not even find a reloading press at Cabelas or Bass Pro, I was there a week ago and nothing, nada!
No powder, no primers, few odd rifle bullets, and odd brass. They didn't have any presses other than display...Thinks are starting to show up on the internet slow but sure...

Don't get to hung up with what you load, Rifle stuff sometimes needs trimming but not always, you are looking for uniformity of case lengths. Casing lube is very important but finding a balance to just how little is needed to avoid a stuck case is where you want to be. Once they are the same length you can run with them.
The thing you will want to understand is your scale and how it is used, too many people scrimp on quality scales, I like a balance beam type, Like those of RCBS 5-10 or 10-10, the are stable and east to work with for repeat-ability with dampening to allow them to balance steadily! Be careful with electronic scales, they can drift off setting, need re-zeroing often. Some electronic scales only display even numbered tenths of a grain 0.0, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8...however they are faster finding unknown weights, like sorting bullets.

Invest in good dies, as mentioned carbide dies are worth their cost. However bottleneck rifle dies with carbide are very expensive and they still require lube (see Dillon) Using a single stage press and setting you dies will be your first challenge but most sizing dies a made to touch the shellholder for full sizing.
Seating and crimping can vary from cartridge/caliber with some requiring seating bullets with out allowing any crimping to occur. That allows you to seat a bullet with less effort, eliminating damage to the bullet, such as shaving off material, Plated bullets and cast bullets especially. Learning how your dies work, with regards to these steps will make for more reliable feeding in semiauto firearms. This issue of Bullet setback is very real and something you will want to fully understand and avoid.

Good luck, if you have questions some handloaders, will be glad to assist you in understanding any or all parts of a process.
Be Safe!

 

[blitztech]

I just got back from cabelas. Not a single primer to be found. No 9mm dies though they had most rifle dies and a few .38 and .45 dies. Very very limited powder selection, and no handgun brass. They had most of the presses in stock, but seeing as I couldn't get any primers, lead, or brass I left with nothing. Time to go auction hunting I suppose.

 

[340six]

Since you are in Kenner did you try Shooters Club on Airline?
I also agree 9mm to start with.
The class beauxdog has sounds like a bargain at 40 bucks
He may also have some stuff you are looking for.
To tell the truth I stated with a a lee loader and plastic hammer way back in the day. And moved up to a Single stage press.
I myself still use the same old RCBS single stage RC press I started out with.
My Dad got a nice RCBS single stage RC press kit with everything in one box {no dies, powder or bullets but everything else} Has a 505 scale, powder dispenser ect.
Lee has a similar kit but read the scale and dispenser is not so great. I have no first hand experience with the Lee kit. Just reviews by guys who buy them and post.

 

[340six]

You never mentioned what brand Single stage press you were looking at? Just curiosity on my part. Any O framed should be fine.
As far as dies go I use mostly RCBS and Lyman and some Lee all carbide for straight walled cases.

They had most of the presses in stock, but seeing as I couldn't get any primers, lead, or brass I left with nothing.

You said you need lead, so I assume you are going to use lead cast with a lube in grooves?
I would rather Have Dillon as they come apart easy with out needing to be reset if you use cast lead bullets with conventional lube in grooves {not coated}
As you can get a build up of lube that will seat the bullets deeper and deeper if let build up in the seating die over time. Just keep an eye on it and clean as needed, it is not really a problem
Just wanted to mention that it is a possibility of lube build up in the seating die. I load mostly lead with lube
If using Jacketed, Plated, or Coated lead disregard my statement.

 

[dixiejarhead]

You never mentioned what brand Single stage press you were looking at? Just curiosity on my part. Any O framed should be fine.
As far as dies go I use mostly RCBS and Lyman and some Lee all carbide for straight walled cases.

You said you need lead, so I assume you are going to use lead cast with a lube in grooves?
I would rather Have Dillon as they come apart easy with out needing to be reset if you use cast lead bullets with conventional lube in grooves {not coated}
As you can get a build up of lube that will seat the bullets deeper and deeper if let build up in the seating die over time. Just keep an eye on it and clean as needed, it is not really a problem
Just wanted to mention that it is a possibility of lube build up in the seating die. I load mostly lead with lube


If using Jacketed, Plated, or Coated lead disregard my statement.

if casting, I have used the lee tumble lube 9mm bullets with good sucess. When casting, drop the finished projectile into a bucket of cold water, right out of the mold. Will harden them up nicely.

I also have to clean out the seating die every few thousand rounds from lube build up. I wipe the tip of the projectile off before seating however and that helps.

 

[dixiejarhead]

And if you're looking at a single stage, I'd advise getting the turret press instead. It works just about the same, but in the long run you'll be much happier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA278nFP-28

 

[340six]

I see guys post on another forum 1911 that they are getting lube build up and do not realize that they have build up of lube till they have very short bullets made up
BTW} I use a Red Carnuba lube {white label lube /Larson} in everything as it works well I do not really get a major build up and keep my dies clean just wanted to put it out there. That it can and will happen.
I did not want to derail this thread. So if i have please mods remove my post sorry
I am pretty happy with 3 moulds I have as they work in all 4 of my 9mm's
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Red Carnuba/P1010005-1-1.jpg
This is a Lyman 358242 and has the most bearing surface of the 3 so it is a work fine in all as well as feeding {have a Lyman 356242 in a lighter weight 90 grains for 380 use}
I also have an Lyman 356402 TC that makes nice holes
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Cast Bullets/Cast004.jpg
The RCBS 115 that is similar to the Lyman TC but has a round tip.
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Red Carnuba/P1010004-1.jpg
I started out with a Lyman 4500 sizer that came with a 8 pound pot and dipper so have always lubed that way. But moved up to a much better Bottom Pour pot
I am probably still just a hack LOL
My start in casting was like this
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Cast Bullets/Cast003.jpg
But was still able to produce bullets like this. The whole reason i went with a lube sizer was so i could do Gas checked 357 and 44Mag as well as Rifle

 

[dixiejarhead]

I see guys post on another forum 1911 that they are getting lube build up and do not realize that they have build up of lube till they have very short bullets made up
BTW} I use a Red Carnuba lube {white label lube /Larson} in everything as it works well I do not really get a major build up and keep my dies clean just wanted to put it out there. That it can and will happen.
I did not want to derail this thread. So if i have please mods remove my post sorry
I am pretty happy with 3 moulds I have as they work in all 4 of my 9mm's
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Red Carnuba/P1010005-1-1.jpg
This is a Lyman 358242 and has the most bearing surface of the 3 so it is a work fine in all as well as feeding {have a Lyman 356242 in a lighter weight 90 grains for 380 use}
I also have an Lyman 356402 TC that makes nice holes
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Cast Bullets/Cast004.jpg
The RCBS 115 that is similar to the Lyman TC but has a round tip.
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Red Carnuba/P1010004-1.jpg
I started out with a Lyman 4500 sizer that came with a 8 pound pot and dipper so have always lubed that way. But moved up to a much better Bottom Pour pot
I am probably still just a hack LOL
My start in casting was like this
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Cast Bullets/Cast003.jpg
But was still able to produce bullets like this. The whole reason i went with a lube sizer was so i could do Gas checked 357 and 44Mag as well as Rifle

you're not a hack at all, you know what you're doing! Great looking cast boolits!!!

 

[Sin-ster]

I've never loaded on a Single Stage, but I've put enough through a progressive (3500 today alone) that I can tell you-- lube on straight walled pistol cases is not a bad idea. At all.

Hornady One Shot is the only thing I'll ever use. Spray on, spread (via shaking) over the cases, let stand 3-5 minutes, and load. No gummy mess, no need to re-tumble the lube off-- and it makes things infinitely easier on your arm, and the press.

I wore out a carbide sizing die last year, even using this practice; I can only imagine how much faster it would have happened otherwise. My press has... good God... WELL over 100k through it at this point, and has never been fully taken down for cleaning or maintenance (spot treatments here and there). I've broken commonly disposable parts and springs of course, but nothing major-- and it still produces the same precision as it did right out of the box. I GUARANTEE the reduced force of every downstroke thanks to the One Shot has played a role in that.

 

[bigtattoo79]

If loading on a single stage make sure to get something that allows you to use quick change bushings.

 

[blitztech]

I do plan on casting my own lead when I get a bigger place, I have nowhere to even attempt this at the moment. I just said lead as an expression. Honestly I'm not sure which I prefer yet as far as plated, lead, etc. I haven't reloaded enough to know jack yet.

I did manage to get my hands on a Lee hand press and some hornady titanium nitride 9mm dies w/o the factory crimping die, which seems to be more of a preference than a necessity from what I've read. I also picked up a Lee autoprime xr. A better press will be something I buy once I know what I want/need. Something I don't know just yet.

I hope to have all these nice reloading tools one day. I'm on too limited space constraints at the moment. I don't get to shoot enough that I need to pump out rounds quickly. I will upgrade in time. I still need to get a good set of calipers, a scale, and I'm waiting on the shell holder I ordered on eBay to come in.

I will be calling for info on that class and I'm 99% sure I'll be in attendance if there's still a spot. What I really need right now is some tried and true primer/powder/bullet info. I know there are lots of places to get this info, but if anyone wants to lend me their recipes I'd appreciate that as well! What primers, powders, and bullets do you guys prefer?

BTW those cast bullets look a lot better than I ever imagined home cast bullets would. I'm sure they work just as well.