Need some advice/Problems with 2000 Ford Expedition

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  • Labeeman

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    23   0   0
    Oct 11, 2010
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    Baton Rouge
    The expedition had started to run a little rough and the engine was dying every now and then when we came to red light or stop sign. It will always start right back up. The check engine light came on and the code said O2 sensors (rear) were bad. I decided to change all 4 and it definitely made the engine run smoother, but it is still dying occasionally when we are coming to a stop. Can anyone give me some ideas on what I should like at to fix this problem. The truck has about 150000 miles on it and we have changed the spark plugs, fuel filter and lots if other stuff during the life of the truck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
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    LNSvince

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    May 10, 2011
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    Denham springs
    Which motor do you have...............
    do you remember the specific 02 codes. reason, there are at least 10 codes for each sensor.

    do you have a basic code scanner that will read generic data?

    those motors are most famous for the PCV grommet on the back of the throttle body sucking in.
    or a dirty MAF.
    Be careful trying to clean a MAF. Its not rocket science, however many times you must lightly touch the glass covered resistors to remove the dirt, all while NOT changing their position in the least bit.
    Must use a MAF cleaner spray as to not leave a residue

    The BEST advise I have, is DO NOT SPEND MONEY GUESSING at parts.
    Especially if you are on a budget.
    Accurate diagnostics will save you much time and headaches.
    Some things are better paid for.
     
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    Labeeman

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    Oct 11, 2010
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    It's the 5.4 L. I'm a tight wad by nature and try to do the work myself. I'll get the codes and post them. I'll google the idle air control. Is that something I could do? I'm a decent shade tree mechanic. I'll make a decision shortly and see if it needs to go to a shop. I'll prolly call your shop Vince.
     

    BOSS351

    CZech It Out
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    Dec 13, 2008
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    Prairieville
    My 98 Eddie Bauer with the 5.4 did the same thing. It was the idle air control valve. I got it for like 30 bucks or so and changed it myself. Real easy to do. Problem solved. It would die at stop signs and lights, start right up and if I gave it some pedal it kept running. Hope this helps.
     

    jcomar1

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    May 19, 2009
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    I had the same problem with my F150. The throttle body was filthy. I took it off and scrubbed the gunk out and now it's like new. It was so dirty where the barrel closes that no air could get through at idle. Just take off the air filter and look in it with a flashlight. If you can't see around the flapper take it off and scrub it.
     

    tonen123

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    Dec 30, 2012
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    Central, La
    I dont own a ford but last time my truck died on me it was the alternator. It wasnt charging battery. it was putting 11.5vdc and that is not enough to charge the battery. needs to be 13+vdc.
     

    LS1RX7

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    Aug 27, 2010
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    Slidell
    Im guessing the rubber elbow on the PCV is creating a vacuum leak. Listen for the whistling and follow your ear. You'll know when you get your finger on it because the whistling will stop. The elbow will be soft rubbery goo if its never been changed. A spark plug boot will work as a replacement temporarily for testing. That would explain the o2 codes as well.
     

    general mills

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    May 1, 2010
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    Denham Springs (BR,Hammond area)
    I am not familiar with the idle air control valve (IACV) on a Ford expedition, but they can often be cleaned rather than replaced. The valve itself is designed to open when the throttle plate is closed to allow air into the engine. That is why, if it is the problem, your car will run fine at all other throttle positions, even barely cracked, but will fall flat on it's face when you let off the pedal. It often gets gummed up with carbon, not allowing it to open. Pull it off and see if you can spray it with carburetor cleaner or Mass Air cleaner and see if you can free it up. In the long run, a good induction cleaning from a shop is worth the money and will prevent problems like this, and improve overall performance and efficiency. I know L&S automotive does them, and Vince is an honest guy.

    I'm not saying this is your problem, just giving info about the IACV and giving you an alternative to spending money on a part.
     

    jguilletjr

    Saw Bones
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    Feb 27, 2011
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    Lafayette, La
    The expedition had started to run a little rough and the engine was dying every now and then when we came to red light or stop sign. It will always start right back up. The check engine light came on and the code said O2 sensors (rear) were bad. I decided to change all 4 and it definitely made the engine run smoother, but it is still dying occasionally when we are coming to a stop. Can anyone give me some ideas on what I should like at to fix this problem. The truck has about 150000 miles on it and we have changed the spark plugs, fuel filter and lots if other stuff during the life of the truck. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Get some spray carburator clener at your local parts store. Remove the throttle body and clean the crud out of it. Common problem, easy fix.
     

    wiliermdb

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    1   0   0
    Jan 12, 2014
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    Prairieville, LA
    My wifes Ford Escape had some bad vacuum lines and the rubber elbow on the valve cover was goo like one other member posted. You could see it suck itself closed. Changed all the vacuum lines and the rubber elbow and no more stalling.

    Being a tightwad can backfire on you quite often. You may find that you replace four sensors that didn't need to be.
     

    LNSvince

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    79   0   0
    May 10, 2011
    1,499
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    Denham springs
    Yes you can take a tooth brush and some carb cleaner and brush out the throttlebody.

    If you hold the electronic end "UP" you can spray out the Idle air motor too and clean it out.

    Yes the EGR crap carbons up everything.

    Thorough top engine cleanings ALWAYS wake an old Ford up !

    At least list the codes.

    Keep it simple, and don't waste money.
     
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