Oiling a hammer fire

[jkingrph]

OP most gun lubes are just as good as any other. Motor oil is for motors. Gun oil is for guns. (If someone wants to fight me on that saying "oil is oil" go fry an omelet in WD40 and lemme know how it tastes.)

WD 40 is really not an oil. The WD stands for water displacing or displacement. It is really meant as a rust preventative, and is ok for very light uses such as a squeaky hinge.

I have been using Mobil 1 15w50 for years with good results. a little stays in place. Motor oil is excellent for rapidly sliding surfaces, think reciprocating pistons, and fast rotating surfaces as bearings, both of which move at must faster speeds than any firearms slide or pivot point. If it can hold up for hours and hours at temperatures most firearms will never reach I don't see why some folks say it is not good for firearms lubrication, after all it is a "LUBRICATING" oil.

 

[JBP55]

WD 40 is really not an oil. The WD stands for water displacing or displacement. It is really meant as a rust preventative, and is ok for very light uses such as a squeaky hinge.

I have been using Mobil 1 15w50 for years with good results. a little stays in place. Motor oil is excellent for rapidly sliding surfaces, think reciprocating pistons, and fast rotating surfaces as bearings, both of which move at must faster speeds than any firearms slide or pivot point. If it can hold up for hours and hours at temperatures most firearms will never reach I don't see why some folks say it is not good for firearms lubrication, after all it is a "LUBRICATING" oil.

TRUE!

 

[Mannelite]

My Sp-01 likes her rails oiled... thats pretty much the only thing on the entire gun that I oil. I also give a wee little bit on the topside of the barrel where it appears to make contact against the slide.

 

[Core]

TRUE!

Im an avid user of Froglube and Otis Bio CLP. Will never use "gun oil" again. I tend to shoot a higher volume when I train, and synthetic CLP was not working for me. I tend not to shoot a box or two of ammo, I shoot in pits and private property ranges. I got sick of scrubbing bolts and soaking parts to get them clean. I use mostly military models, and I have tested them down to -20F with the FrogLube regular. I only use FrogLube Extreme on my 1911A1 because pf the tight tolerances and the oiling requirements of the 1911 - it needs thin oil viscosity lube. We have family property in the mountains here, it ranges from 0ft-2000 feet or more and we get very cold winters. I do not have issues.

I coated my shower rod with Froglube paste three years ago, still no surface rust. It had previously been rusting every week. Synthetic oil is not for me but I use it successfully albeit a lot more scrubbing and soaking.

 

[JBP55]

Im an avid user of Froglube and Otis Bio CLP. Will never use "gun oil" again. I tend to shoot a higher volume when I train, and synthetic CLP was not working for me. I tend not to shoot a box or two of ammo, I shoot in pits and private property ranges. I got sick of scrubbing bolts and soaking parts to get them clean. I use mostly military models, and I have tested them down to -20F with the FrogLube regular. I only use FrogLube Extreme on my 1911A1 because pf the tight tolerances and the oiling requirements of the 1911 - it needs thin oil viscosity lube. We have family property in the mountains here, it ranges from 0ft-2000 feet or more and we get very cold winters. I do not have issues.

I coated my shower rod with Froglube paste three years ago, still no surface rust. It had previously been rusting every week. Synthetic oil is not for me but I use it successfully albeit a lot more scrubbing and soaking.

Many quit using Frog Lube long ago because it Gums Up. Also check out the Grant Cunningham article on Firearm Lubricants.

 

[dwr461]

Many quit using Frog Lube long ago because it Gums Up. Also check out the Grant Cunningham article on Firearm Lubricants.

+1 on the Grant Cunningham article. Boy some of you spend a lot time pondering on something I give little or no thought too.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigarc]

I doubt a little good quality silicone spray would hurt.

 

[HLM]

I mostly use grease


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Magdump]

Birchwood Casey makes one of the best products for springs and crevasses and areas you want to blast out but not oil up. It was formerly known as Gun Sheath, but is now called Barricade. The spray can used with the straw/tube to give a quick blast that will displace any water and prevent rust. It’s incredibly thin and offers no real lubricating qualities (against friction, in my opinion) and does not cake up or collect crud. What it does is creep very well and protect surfaces. Also great for wipedown and removing fingerprints from polished blued areas.

No way I’d ever leave any springs or internal parts dry with no protection. I have a sizable collection of fine rifles, pistols and shotguns and I don’t play around when it comes to caring for them.

I’ve used this very common product for about 40 years with good success.