Reloading 9mm ?s

[bigtattoo79]

I am gonna start reloading soon and Im looking for a little advice on a couple things.

1) I have read of a couple cases of primers going off in primer tubes and while it seems very rare it has me thinking I wanna start reloading with a "harder primer" from what I see it seems that CCI is on the harder end of the scale. Is there any reason I should stay away from CCI primers or are they good to go?

2) Again I have read about a few rare cases of KBs and wanna start with a powder thats less volatile "slower burning". Whats a good powder for the new reloader to start with?

Just to add: The gun is a M&P Pro 9mm and being used for USPSA type shooting.


Thanks BigTat

 

[enutees]

#1. I wouldn't worry about the primers blowing. I had a whole tube go up in the 650 years ago. A little loud but the Dillon is built to take it and I had no damage other than ringing ears. It is a rare event and if you are careful it can be avoided. Nothing wrong with CCI primers though as long as your gun can run them.

#2 9mm is pretty friendly if you start low and work your way up. 9mm minor you are going to want one of the faster powders. You will notice almost everyone loads a fast powder for 9mm minor. There is a reason for that. Ask around at the next match.

I personally load with Solo 1000 (fast powder) and Bayou Bullets in 125 and 135 grain. I love the combo.

 

[FTRrookie]

Do you have stock springs in that m&p? If you've installed the apex competition kit you might get misfires from light firing pin hits with the CCI's

 

[bigtattoo79]

Do you have stock springs in that m&p? If you've installed the apex competition kit you might get misfires from light firing pin hits with the CCI's

Yes sir all stock springs.

 

[toddrod]

after loading well over 100K 9mm over the years I will tell you not to worry about the primer issue as long as you do not "SLAM" it home to seat it. As far as powders go, load what you like. The only difference between slow and fast burner powders is the recoil impulse that you will feel. fast powder = snappy recoil, slower powder = "pushy" recoil. For me, if I want an accuracy load I use WSF (slow) and everything else I use Titegroup. TG is fast, cheap and readily available.

Recomendations for a slow powder, that is good for 9mm minor loads, would be:

WSF
Ramshot Silhoutte - I am really liking this powder more and more every time I use.
Unique
Vit N340
Power Pistol


fast powders:

Solo 1000
Titegroup
American Select
N320
231
Ramshot Zip
Ramshot Compettion
WST

Also, I am in Vacherie, come on over to my house if you need any help or just want to talk. I can also let you try a small amount of powder from some listed above.

 

[Sin-ster]

I'm guessing you spotted the thread on the Benos forums about the primers going off in the pick up tube. That's the fluke of all flukes-- I would not concern myself over it. Something tells me we're not getting all of the story on that one. And if it was static electricity (huge "if", IMO), we don't live in an area prone to it!

With stock springs on the Pro, you can probably get away with CCI primers and not run into any problems. As your striker spring wears a little bit, maybe-- but that's a cheap and easy fix. I wouldn't go crazy and order 10k of them, though-- put in an order for a small mix of things (powder, primers and boolits) and see what works best for you.

I can tell you without question that the two most common powders being used by even semi-serious Production shooters are TG and N320. There's a lot to be said for that, and most of the key points have already been touched upon. In terms of safety, you can get into just as much trouble with a slow burn rate as you can a fast-- and in certain cases, more so. Properly working up a load and paying attention while at the press are solid safeguards, and there are plenty of folks who have reloaded hundreds of thousands of rounds and never run into issues because they are always diligent and consistent in what they do. (I plan on being one of them way on down the road!)

 

[Storm52]

I prefer Federal primers, but back last year I'd take what I could find and legally afford. CCI is fine for all production guns, unless you've changed sear and springs. I load with Tightgroup, 231 (best over-all) and Clays. Bullseye comes to mind as a fast powder but I've found it rather dirty.
Starting with 9mm to load is good choice. Easy to load and tons of data available. Don't fear the 'what if', but rather protect yourself. I wear safety glasses at all times while reloading. I've seen some friends pop plugs in not so much to prevent hearing damage in case of primer tube popping, but to eliminate distraction from noise.

 

[bigtattoo79]

Yall thanks for all the advice. Unless I didnt understand right I think its safe to start with Winchester Super Field powder and the Winchester primers then work from there.

Feel free to add anything that I may be missing?

 

[FD807]

Here is a couple loads for you
135gr Bayou Bullet
3.5grs HP/38 or Winchester 231
OAL 1.13
Makes an average of 131pf out of a Glock 34

135gr Bayou Bullet
3.5grs VV N320
OAL 1.13
Makes 132 average PF out of the same gun

I don't have any loads using WSF as I like to use the faster powders but I'm sure someone on here can help you out if you want to use that.

 

[noylj]

Guys: This is a newbee!
Start with slower powders. 9x19 is one of the more "challenging" rounds to load.
If you can stand the idea of your gun actually looking like it has been shot, try some Unique or Herco. These are flake powders that are well behaved (no sudden pressure peaks and pressure problems using a fast powder). You can not double charge a case and both powders are very accurate in 9x19.
Be sure to pay a LOT of attention to the sizing and expander steps in your manuals (you do have several, right)? You really do not want ANY bullet set-back in the 9x19 (or .40S&W).
Be sure to ALWAYS start at the starting load and don't use ANYONE'S load until you have worked up to it.
With experience, you can start to go to faster powders.
If you want to start a little faster, then try 231/HP38. This powder is faster, but it is also well behaved. I haven't used it lately, but you might be able to double charge a case.
I find that for full-power loads, Silhouette works great.
For lighter (minor) loads, I prefer AA2 and AA5, and not the powder-du-jour.
For 9x19, start with jacketed bullets from Montana Gold or Precision Delta. I recommend buying JHPs and buy them by the case (minimum 3k). Plated cost the same and aren't, in my opinion, as good. You can save a little money by purchasing FMJ, but why when you can get JHPs for just a little more?
Of course, the best way to prevent a double charge or a squib is to inspect EVERY charged case before seating the bullet.

 

[Leadslugga]

I've loaded thousands of 9mms (first round I ever loaded, too) and I've never found anything about it to be difficult. I've loaded a wide variety of bullets and charges and I've never had any problems.

That being said, I don't load things to maximum velocity for target shooting. I don't see the point.

I use winchester or CCI primers. My choice is based exclusively on price and availability. For 9mm I don't really experience a difference. I've used thousands of both and couldn't tell you which I prefer. Hell, the only thing that bugs me is when I load the brass colored winchester primers in nickel cases just because I think it looks wonky. I do my loading on a single stage press, though, so I can't speak to how they might vary in the feed tubes.

I use Unique almost exclusively because it is extremely versatile and I just buy the 4 pound cans these days. I used to buy a bunch of different powders when I first started out, but since I shoot a variety of handgun loads (9mm, 40, .38 spl, .44 spl, .45acp) I just ended up using unique for ease. Also, I shoot almost all cast bullets these days and Unique seems to agree with them pretty well. The only other powder I use is Win 296 for magnum handgun loads (.357 and .44), and only because I think it performs best (you get a much louder boom which impresses people but the recoil is actually milder feeling than if you use a faster powder like unique).

I shoot 125gr LRN bullets almost exclusively now for 9mm, again for cost effectiveness and because dammit if lead bullets don't just shoot well. I load them pretty mild with 4.2gr of unique (I think - I'm not looking at my notes right now). I'm pretty sure this is actually below the necessary power factor for USPSA, but when I was shooting those matches I wasn't doing well enough for anyone to challenge my loads anyway. IMHO the USPSA rules for power factor for 9mm minor are a little high. Seems you have to almost max out your loads to get there (based on data in the manuals at least. I don't have a chrony).

I'm going to get back into USPSA one day when I can afford it again (that is when I finally finish law school and have income), but I'm going to shoot .45 in limited-10 and not worry about minor power factor.

 

[Vigilante Sniper]

Here is a couple loads for you
135gr Bayou Bullet @1.150
4.2 WSF
3.4 Tightgroup
3.9 AA2 @1.130

 

[bigtattoo79]

Here is a couple loads for you
135gr Bayou Bullet
4.2 WSF
3.4 Tightgroup

What is your OAL?

 

[bigtattoo79]

I made some dummy rounds today and had some trouble with the seating/crimping die but will give it a try again tomorrow.

 

[Vigilante Sniper]

What is your OAL?

1.150 OAL

 

[Tboy]

I made some dummy rounds today and had some trouble with the seating/crimping die but will give it a try again tomorrow.

It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like the shiny part right above the case edge is exposed lead then you my be trying to crimp before the bullet is seated. It looks as though the coating has been scraped off.

 

[bigtattoo79]

It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like the shiny part right above the case edge is exposed lead then you my be trying to crimp before the bullet is seated. It looks as though the coating has been scraped off.

Yes thats what I think also Im gonna play with them more after work today.

 

[zivadog]

Agree with all said here, but one thing to add. Don't accidently use Rem 5 1/2 primers instead of Rem 1 1/2 primers. They are both labelled small pistol primers. The 5 1/2 have thick cups and dont go off about 80% of the time in my .380's or 9mm (4 different handguns)

Had a previous post on this a year or so ago involving a call to Remington, yada yada .......

Zivadog

 

[DBMJR1]

Primers detonating in the tube is usually caused by static electricity. Ground everything. The press and yourself. Don't work on carpet.

If static is the culprit, how hard the primer is won't make a difference. On another forum, a fellow recently blew a hole in his finger from primers detonating in the tube from static. They were CCI. I asked.

Or: Use a Lee priming system. It eliminates the possibility of a chain fire. You can still have one go off, but not a whole tube.

I use CCI almost exclusively. Occasionally, perhaps one every two thousand, I will have to hit a primer twice. I suspect that it's cause I didn't fully seat it. Since I shoot wheel guns, this is less an issue than in a semi.

 

[bigtattoo79]

Got everything set up and wanna load some rounds I know everyone says start low and work up. But when working up do I just watch for case stress or do I need to go out and buy a chronograph right away?