Remington (1974) 1100 3" Magnum Cold Blued.

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  • djdig

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    Jul 10, 2013
    527
    18
    Thibodaux, La
    So the only thing I really don't do is bluing because if you do the true bath type (considerably the best) it requires attention and I just don't have resources yet to have that equipment, etc.. So I polished my receiver from 80 to 5000 grit (mirror) finish with maybe a few pits if that. I paid a Gunsmith who advertises hot bluing and when I got it back it was the most horrible thing I had ever seen, it looked like it was cold blued with one wipe and no degrease, I took the blue off with one 3000 grit sand paper by hand.

    Anyway I came up with this for cold bluing and I just did it to my receiver because I wasted $200+ bucks getting it done "right".

    • Birchwood Casey Paste Perma Blue
    • Birchwood Casey Degrease
    • 0000 Wool
    • Blue Shop Towels
    • Barricade Wipe

    Apply paste after full degrease and rub in with 0000 wool light pressure until the lather was basically gone, then wipe down with clean towel, and then with microfiber cloth, and repeated 4 times. The picture shows a rainbow effect its from the barricade wipe I used at end to let it end process and dry overnight, but it kept turning a darker blue for hours and tomorrow ill just polish out ruff parts and assemble, but for cold bluing and $25 worth of parts it was hella better than what I paid a gunsmith to do.

    I have a brand new rem-choke barrel to put on it so will see how the new barrel goes against the receiver.
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    djdig

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    Really the water or wet based bluing is garbage because you have to either soak it or keep a constant flow on it. The paste acts like shampoo lather, and works perfect. I am going to try another gun with the brownells paste and citri gun degrease, but not sure how much more it could come out any better.

    And just when you think you have sanded/polished the metal enough, do it again..prep work is probably 75% of it..if I had to guess.
     

    bigjakewelch

    Mill Spec
    Rating - 98%
    50   1   0
    Mar 19, 2010
    2,050
    48
    Baton Rouge
    You did a good job with that thing. It looks like you prepped that receiver perfect. To get a cold blue to look that good takes allot of work. Props to you man.
    If you decide to get something hot dipped in the future give me a shout and I'll hook you up.
     

    djdig

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    Jul 10, 2013
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    Now I just put it together and wiped it down with microfiber, the barrel is brand new from remington its a rem-choke. So later ill put some flitz on it and get some of my fingerprints off of it....it has a mirror polish.



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    djdig

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    Didn't take before an after pics but this was a pump 22 stevens guy left in his boat year after year and he didn't want a total over haul but it was covered head to toe in rust and this is what it looked like after I finished. With more prep work and money could have really got it to the factory look im sure.

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    djdig

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    That is some nice work !
    Thanks, I just finished blending a reminton 700 for an older gentlemen that he let his grandson's use and they just laid it in the back of the 4x4 so it bounced around and nicked up the barrel a good bit. Ending up using the paste with bronze wool and about 5 or 6 coats I was able to blend it to the factory color (you would need a huge light and and better glass's than me to see the blend).

    I'll snap a picture of it later, once I brought him back that one he gave me 2 more to touch up.
     

    toyota38

    Member
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    Apr 14, 2014
    20
    1
    Lake Charles Louisiana
    That looks awesome, I have my dads Colt government model series 70 that he "lost" for three or four years. When he found it it was pretty rusted, mainly on the slide with a few small spots on the frame. I got the rust off with oil and 0000 steel wool. I would like to try and "polish" most of the pitting away. No deep pits, mainly minor pitting, but it looks like crap. He gave it to me, I would like to try this procedure to clean it up.
     

    djdig

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    Jul 10, 2013
    527
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    Thibodaux, La
    That looks awesome, I have my dads Colt government model series 70 that he "lost" for three or four years. When he found it it was pretty rusted, mainly on the slide with a few small spots on the frame. I got the rust off with oil and 0000 steel wool. I would like to try and "polish" most of the pitting away. No deep pits, mainly minor pitting, but it looks like crap. He gave it to me, I would like to try this procedure to clean it up.

    For the heavy pitting i use low grit paper and keep a straight edge on hand just to make sure everything is going fluent across the metal. You don't have to get the whole pit out though with low grit, once its down to minor pitting just keep stepping up till you finish with the 5,000 grit and recheck. Over the range of 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000 grit most small stuff comes out. If for whatever reason they are still there, just repeat the steps. Once you do it a few times you will get the feel for how far you have to get the pits out before you can range up the grit to the high polish.

    I am doing the wood now on that savage 29b pump 22, all the metal has been blued 5 finishes, so once the wood is done ill post pictures of finished product.

    Also sometimes you will get to a point after say 2 or 3 coats where it seems like the blue is not going to get darker. Just barricade wipe the metal and let it dry 24 hours and watch the blue start to really darken, after that blend with 0000 wool, then degrease again, and start again.
     

    djdig

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    Jul 10, 2013
    527
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    Thibodaux, La
    I hate to sound stupid, but what is a barricade wipe?

    Birchwood casey product you wipe on your guns after cleaning for storage or like in my case I have 2,000 acres of swamp property for hunting so they are good to put on to stop rust, etc... You just need an agent to stop the process from the bluing paste. Another really good one is this....

    I use this for degrease
    CitriGun Degreaser: Able to remove grease, oil, and some synthetics like silicone. Non-flammable, No fumes, and will not damage wood finish. Safe & Easy! 4 oz. 7.95 8 oz. $13.95

    I use this to stop the process, or barricade wipe.
    Supr-Fine Oil: A very thin bodied oil that is tougher than thicker oils. Neutralizes acid, and protects to 64F. 2 oz. $4.95 4 oz. $7.95

    Once it has dried and you have had it sit up for 48 to 72 hours and everything is fine, this stuff works great....I use to only use Flitz, but this stuff is top notch.
    Top-it Gunwax: This little bottle will save hours of unneeded labor. Prevents rust and water damage on metal and wood for pennies per application. Far stronger than high priced products. 2 oz. $3.95 4 oz. $6.95

    You can buy all the stuff you need from this site, I just don't like the Van's Cold bluing I have used it and it is great if you have a small tank and you want to submerge parts for a long time, but that is the only way it really comes out dark, I use the paste, but all the other products I mentioned are great.

    http://mpi.websitewizard.com/Home.html
     

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