Remington 700 aac-sd optics?

[SPINTIMAX]

Hey guys, I have plenty of AR's, I just bought a used Remington 700 aad-sd. Its a 308 and im trying to buy some good optics for it. im not really sure if its possible to over do it with optics? I want to have a couple options. Lets say money wasn't an issue what would you put on your gun? and lets say money was tight so you want the best bang for your buck?? I really know nothing about glass, all i know is i would like to reach out to 1000 yards, so i need some optics to make that as helpful as possible. suggestions?? thanks

 

[Barney88PDC]

$ no object, S&B PMII 5-25x56 HANDS DOWN! and I've tried a few different options.

Thrifty, Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP.

 

[david mitchell]

I have a Burris Eliminator on mine good for 500 yds

 

[freedive10]

PM Chris@InterstateGuns! The guy knows his stuff and will steer you to exactly what you are looking for. You will get the best BANG for your $.

 

[SpeedRacer]

PM Chris@InterstateGuns! The guy knows his stuff and will steer you to exactly what you are looking for. You will get the best BANG for your $.

This. And go ahead and get the paperwork started on a can while you're at it. That barrel ain't threaded for nuthin'.

 

[Vigilante Sniper]

I put the Bushnell Elite DMR on mine. But as stated above go see or call Chris at Interstate Guns. They actually sold me my mounts and put the scope and level on for me. The DMR is FFP and MRAD just what suited me for the type of shooting I do.

 

[HogHunter1203]

$ no object, S&B PMII 5-25x56 HANDS DOWN! and I've tried a few different options.

Thrifty, Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP.

+1 on the vortex. I went with the Viper PST 6-24x50 on mine and could not be happier. I've taken it out to 1100 yrds now. I will say though, the Hogue stock has go to if you are shooting for precision at distance. I've been very happy with the bell and Carlson m40. Shooting Sub 3/4 MOA with Remington core loks (only supersonic to about 750-800yrds) and sub 1/2 MOA with hand loads (155g lapua scenars).

 

[NORSEWOLF]

I have the Vortex Viper 4x16x50 on a Remington 710 30.06.
I like is so much I put the 4x10x44 on my are in 300 Blk.
Glass is very clear and very bright at dusk.

 

[JCcypress]

My bolt guns:

Nightforce 2.5-10x32 NXS on Tikka T3 CTR .308

Zeiss Terra 2-7x32 (Plex) on 16.5" Rem 700 SPS 300BLK (mostly just for subs)

 

[InterstateGuns]

My choices would be in the following order:

FFP Scopes:
1. Kahles K624i - Nightforce ATACR F1 - SB PMII (however I think that they are crazy for what they are charging for their scopes now)
2. Vortex Razor Gen II
3. Vortex PST - Burris XTRII

SFP Scopes:
1. Nightforce ATACR
2. Nightforce NXS
3. Vortex PST

Drop in the shop or give us a call and we can talk more about it. 800-260-9625

 

[Ritten]

My choices would be in the following order:

FFP Scopes:
1. Kahles K624i - Nightforce ATACR F1 - SB PMII (however I think that they are crazy for what they are charging for their scopes now)
2. Vortex Razor Gen II
3. Vortex PST - Burris XTRII


Drop in the shop or give us a call and we can talk more about it. 800-260-9625

+1

I won't even look at a SFP scope anymore.

 

[djdig]

I have a 6-24 Viper PST FFP on my 700 and like Ritten said It is really hard looking through a scope that is not FFP after you get addicted to it. Just make sure you buy quality base and rings to go with it, or its kinda like putting spare tires on your Porsche.

 

[Barney88PDC]

If you hold for wind or EVER need / plan to hold over for elevation then a SFP is plain retarded.

 

[hdfinder47]

I like the idea of pushing a button and pulling the trigger - so I got the Burris Eliminator III. I don't shoot over 100-200 yards but the scope paperwork says it's good to 1000, IIRC. If you are going to learn to use a quality scope, I'd follow Barnet88PDC's advice as he uses this stuff in the real world.
Edit to add: I shoot a suppressed 700 AAC-SD.

 

[Harrisracing]

If you hold for wind or EVER need / plan to hold over for elevation then a SFP is plain retarded.

I disagree completely.

At what magnification are you when you need to HOLD OVER on optics? I'd be willing to bet that it is MAX everytime. The ONLY time SFP helps at lower magnifications is when you are ranging a target at close up distances with a mil-dot or other reticle scale and it's nothing a rangefinder can't handle either way. I can't tell you the last time I needed a range finder within 200 yds anyway (a shot that I may not be a full zoom for) as with most of my longer range rifles when zero'd at 200 everything dies from 1-250 with no changes.

The other school of thought is, less clutter of reticle (cross, dot, whatever), and a GOOD set of turrets. And then FFP still does nothing for you over a SFP even in regards to zoom. Find your dope on your card and dial it in. This has worked for me out to 800 yds (furthest I have shot). Ironically I have only had shots at living targets no further than 341 yds.

In some ways my S&B long range FFP 4-14 is aggravating in that the turret is covered by caps AND it doesn't have much of a different reticle (bold/fine cross reticle). Then again my Weaver 3-12x44 has GREAT locking and zero-indicating turrets and a ballistic reticle that allow me to dial in OR holdover. I also own an older nightforce with a pretty busy reticle (npr-1r or whatever), and it's SFP and works fine, but again the turrets are covered.

All in all I'd say in order of most important in a scope:
1) CLEAR GLASS (there is no substitute) with a CLEAR RETICLE
2) Good, accessible turret with positive clicks
3) Zero Stop Turret (minimum of re-zero indication)
4) Side focus (bell focus tends to put things too far away)

I wouldn't even rate FFP or SFP as a deciding factor in chosing a scope.

These are my experiences with hunting and long-range scopes.

 

[Harrisracing]

Also

That being said the Vortex Vipers are VERY good values in scopes.

 

[Ritten]

At what magnification are you when you need to HOLD OVER on optics? I'd be willing to bet that it is MAX everytime. The ONLY time SFP helps at lower magnifications is when you are ranging a target at close up distances with a mil-dot or other reticle scale and it's nothing a rangefinder can't handle either way. I can't tell you the last time I needed a range finder within 200 yds anyway (a shot that I may not be a full zoom for) as with most of my longer range rifles when zero'd at 200 everything dies from 1-250 with no changes.

The other school of thought is, less clutter of reticle (cross, dot, whatever), and a GOOD set of turrets. And then FFP still does nothing for you over a SFP even in regards to zoom. Find your dope on your card and dial it in. This has worked for me out to 800 yds (furthest I have shot). Ironically I have only had shots at living targets no further than 341 yds.

I have to agree with Barney88PDC. Thinking that someone shoots at full power all the time is a little naive. I shoot at all magnifications, especially in hunting scenarios, and whether I'm using a dope card, or rangefinder hold overs enable a faster target acquisition between the time I identify the target and the shot is taken. During precision shooting competitions that valuable time saved is even more important. With a SFP scope you also lose the advantage during stages of multiple distance targets where the closer targets are harder to acquire at full magnification, you want to dial for an intermediate target and hold over/under for the rest. There is a reason that nearly all of the top shooters use FFP scopes if they have a choice.

Re-read Barney's post: "If you hold for wind or EVER need / plan to hold over for elevation then a SFP is plain retarded."

 

[Barney88PDC]

I disagree completely.

At what magnification are you when you need to HOLD OVER on optics? I'd be willing to bet that it is MAX everytime. The ONLY time SFP helps at lower magnifications is when you are ranging a target at close up distances with a mil-dot or other reticle scale and it's nothing a rangefinder can't handle either way. I can't tell you the last time I needed a range finder within 200 yds anyway (a shot that I may not be a full zoom for) as with most of my longer range rifles when zero'd at 200 everything dies from 1-250 with no changes.

The other school of thought is, less clutter of reticle (cross, dot, whatever), and a GOOD set of turrets. And then FFP still does nothing for you over a SFP even in regards to zoom. Find your dope on your card and dial it in. This has worked for me out to 800 yds (furthest I have shot). Ironically I have only had shots at living targets no further than 341 yds.

In some ways my S&B long range SFP 4-14 is aggravating in that the turret is covered by caps AND it doesn't have much of a different reticle (bold/fine cross reticle). Then again my Weaver 3-12x44 has GREAT locking and zero-indicating turrets and a ballistic reticle that allow me to dial in OR holdover. I also own an older nightforce with a pretty busy reticle (npr-1r or whatever), and it's SFP and works fine, but again the turrets are covered.

All in all I'd say in order of most important in a scope:
1) CLEAR GLASS (there is no substitute) with a CLEAR RETICLE
2) Good, accessible turret with positive clicks
3) Zero Stop Turret (minimum of re-zero indication)
4) Side focus (bell focus tends to put things too far away)

I wouldn't even rate FFP or SFP as a deciding factor in chosing a scope.

These are my experiences with hunting and long-range scopes.

Wow where to start,

The following is in reference to shots at distances and under conditions where wind DOES matter and elevation correction certainly needs to be considered. My experience is in Precision Rifle style matches and hunting when taking shots past 300 yards. Inside of that on midsized game is child's play. The lion's share of target engagements at Precision Rifle events happen from 300-700 yards with shots in excess of that out to 1000 yards regularly, just not the majority of match points available. The furthest I have engaged is 1300 yards at a match in Oklahoma on a 2' x 2' square and hit it 3 out of 5 (by the way the wind was blowing 21mph dead cross and I had to dial AND hold for that one too.)

What magnification do I dial for holds? Usually 12-15x is where I set my scope (my max is 25x), this is on a stage where multiple targets need to be engaged under a prescribed par time or there is another need for a larger FOV, such as a mover. Setting the magnification lower is advantageous for acquiring the targets quickly and not wasting time by having to "search around" for them. So you lost that bet.

"The ONLY time SFP helps at lower magnifications is when you are ranging a target at close up distances with a mil-dot or other reticle scale and it's nothing a rangefinder can't handle either way." I'm assuming you meant FFP as SFP does not make any sense what so ever. Try to range a target at a lower magnification with a SFP and let me know the target distance you come up with. I'd bet it's wrong. Unless you have say a 10x scope and you range it on say 2.5x then divide the answer by 4. But talk about overly complicated.

Rangefinders are your best bet for ranging, agreed, period, end of story. I only do it for points when a stage requires it.

I needed a range finder MONDAY for less than 100 yards because I was testing how much I needed to dial for 50 yards with SUBSONIC ammo with a scope that is zeroed for 100 yards with SUPERSONIC ammo. 1.1 Mils at 50 and 3.5 Mils at 100 FYI. (added value).

When was the last time I needed less magnification and hold over? SATURDAY on the poles stage. 300 yard head flapper, then 400 yard head flapper, then either 735 or 785 (don't remember) on a full IPSC target. Stage briefing dictated that you COULD NOT DIAL your scope you had to hold over. If I would have cranked the magnification all the way up to 25x it would have taken much longer to find the target as well as my wobble would have been so magnified I would have gotten dizzy.

Another example? Also last Saturday! 300 yard mover 2x, then B1 at 250 1x, B2 375 1x, B3 425 1x, then back to the 300 yard mover 2x (7 shots total). If you had the scope dialed way up you would have a **** poor FOV and good luck on the mover trying to either ambush or track it as they dialed the speed up and it was moving pretty good. 61 competitors shot that stage only 1 cleaned it and he is typing right now.

Humm lets see, other stages SATURDAY I had to hold off at various magnifications. House Hustle, yep held for that one with less than 25x on the scope. Bad Neighborhood, yep targets were kind of close, furthest target was only 476 yards out, only a head flapper (you know close and big), target #4 was partially covered by a no-shoot so you had to hold off for it. 7 targets with 10 shots so you had 3 mulligans. When I got off the line with all available points and 7 casings the RO told me I had the best run so far albeit only one squad had shot it prior to us. This is only one match. I can't even recall how many other stages at other matches the same old song was used. 100's if not 1000's. I went shoot my 308 YESTERDAY at 320, 411 and 569 yards respectively and yep, I had to hold there too for a right to left wind. The .308 really gets pushed around with only a light breeze compared to those 6mm and 6.5mm offerings.

Other school of thought, Reticle choice is largely dependent on your style of shooting and if you like to hold over or not (personal choice). There are guys running the Horus style reticles that NEVER dial for any shot. They hold over the entire match for every shot at every distance. But yes if dialing for a given distance the SFP or FFP doesn't matter for elevation, but there is still that left to right thing you have to worry about. Oh, its a 0.3 mil or say 1MOA wind hold, ok on my FFP NO MATTER THE MAGNIGICATION. Oh you have a SPF well it's only 0.3Mil / 1MOA for one magnification (usually the highest) or you have to hold something completely different than the PHUCKING correct value needed. Ironically, I have only had shots on living targets no further than 656 yards but there was no wind at the time so I held dead on and he died, ironically.

So your pissed that your SFP S&B has covered turrets. Yeah covered turrets are **** if you intend to dial, sell it and buy a PM-II, get a FFP while you're at it. I'm not a fan of NF so I won't comment on that.

ALL IN ALL
1. TRACKING, most important by a LARGE margin. It better give you what you dial on time, every time or you can throw the clearest scope in the ditch because you don't have ****.
2. A magnification range that is suitable for the intended use of the optic / weapon system.
3. I wouldn't own a scope I can't dial or doesn't not have a zero stop or atleast an ability to know what rev 0 is.
4. Parallex adjustment.
5. Clarity

My experience is shooting ~ 2000 precision rifle rounds a year and being ranked in the top 50 in the nation in the PRS the last 3 years.

But coming from a guy that is selling *Real-Deal Holyfield* rifles with *SNIPER* barrels I guess I’m preaching to the choir.
http://www.bayoushooter.com/forums/showthread.php?139182-Remington-700-5r-milspec-308

1. Remington 700 5r milspec .308
Yes this is the real-deal holyfield bolt action remington 700 5r rifled, .308 milspec version with the sniper rifle barrel from the factory in the HS-Precision stock.

Extremely hard to find, immaculate condition. I have shot 15 rounds through it to break in, clean, and group it. It has proven sub-moa even in break-in rounds. It is in like new condition.

Scope not included, but 30mm rings are.

$1050 FTF, cash money
Lafayette...headed to nola for the weekend let me know if I need to bring it with me
Patrick
337-654-3834

 

[Log Island]

It was 785yds and 65% IPSC.....just checked the notes in my data book.

 

[Harrisracing]

Wow where to start,

The following is in reference to shots at distances and under conditions where wind DOES matter and elevation correction certainly needs to be considered. My experience is in Precision Rifle style matches and hunting when taking shots past 300 yards. Inside of that on midsized game is child's play. The lion's share of target engagements at Precision Rifle events happen from 300-700 yards with shots in excess of that out to 1000 yards regularly, just not the majority of match points available. The furthest I have engaged is 1300 yards at a match in Oklahoma on a 2' x 2' square and hit it 3 out of 5 (by the way the wind was blowing 21mph dead cross and I had to dial AND hold for that one too.)

What magnification do I dial for holds? Usually 12-15x is where I set my scope (my max is 25x), this is on a stage where multiple targets need to be engaged under a prescribed par time or there is another need for a larger FOV, such as a mover. Setting the magnification lower is advantageous for acquiring the targets quickly and not wasting time by having to "search around" for them. So you lost that bet.

"The ONLY time SFP helps at lower magnifications is when you are ranging a target at close up distances with a mil-dot or other reticle scale and it's nothing a rangefinder can't handle either way." I'm assuming you meant FFP as SFP does not make any sense what so ever. Try to range a target at a lower magnification with a SFP and let me know the target distance you come up with. I'd bet it's wrong. Unless you have say a 10x scope and you range it on say 2.5x then divide the answer by 4. But talk about overly complicated.

Rangefinders are your best bet for ranging, agreed, period, end of story. I only do it for points when a stage requires it.

I needed a range finder MONDAY for less than 100 yards because I was testing how much I needed to dial for 50 yards with SUBSONIC ammo with a scope that is zeroed for 100 yards with SUPERSONIC ammo. 1.1 Mils at 50 and 3.5 Mils at 100 FYI. (added value).

When was the last time I needed less magnification and hold over? SATURDAY on the poles stage. 300 yard head flapper, then 400 yard head flapper, then either 735 or 785 (don't remember) on a full IPSC target. Stage briefing dictated that you COULD NOT DIAL your scope you had to hold over. If I would have cranked the magnification all the way up to 25x it would have taken much longer to find the target as well as my wobble would have been so magnified I would have gotten dizzy.

Another example? Also last Saturday! 300 yard mover 2x, then B1 at 250 1x, B2 375 1x, B3 425 1x, then back to the 300 yard mover 2x (7 shots total). If you had the scope dialed way up you would have a **** poor FOV and good luck on the mover trying to either ambush or track it as they dialed the speed up and it was moving pretty good. 61 competitors shot that stage only 1 cleaned it and he is typing right now.

Humm lets see, other stages SATURDAY I had to hold off at various magnifications. House Hustle, yep held for that one with less than 25x on the scope. Bad Neighborhood, yep targets were kind of close, furthest target was only 476 yards out, only a head flapper (you know close and big), target #4 was partially covered by a no-shoot so you had to hold off for it. 7 targets with 10 shots so you had 3 mulligans. When I got off the line with all available points and 7 casings the RO told me I had the best run so far albeit only one squad had shot it prior to us. This is only one match. I can't even recall how many other stages at other matches the same old song was used. 100's if not 1000's. I went shoot my 308 YESTERDAY at 320, 411 and 569 yards respectively and yep, I had to hold there too for a right to left wind. The .308 really gets pushed around with only a light breeze compared to those 6mm and 6.5mm offerings.

Other school of thought, Reticle choice is largely dependent on your style of shooting and if you like to hold over or not (personal choice). There are guys running the Horus style reticles that NEVER dial for any shot. They hold over the entire match for every shot at every distance. But yes if dialing for a given distance the SFP or FFP doesn't matter for elevation, but there is still that left to right thing you have to worry about. Oh, its a 0.3 mil or say 1MOA wind hold, ok on my FFP NO MATTER THE MAGNIGICATION. Oh you have a SPF well it's only 0.3Mil / 1MOA for one magnification (usually the highest) or you have to hold something completely different than the PHUCKING correct value needed. Ironically, I have only had shots on living targets no further than 656 yards but there was no wind at the time so I held dead on and he died, ironically.

So your pissed that your SFP S&B has covered turrets. Yeah covered turrets are **** if you intend to dial, sell it and buy a PM-II, get a FFP while you're at it. I'm not a fan of NF so I won't comment on that.

ALL IN ALL
1. TRACKING, most important by a LARGE margin. It better give you what you dial on time, every time or you can throw the clearest scope in the ditch because you don't have ****.
2. A magnification range that is suitable for the intended use of the optic / weapon system.
3. I wouldn't own a scope I can't dial or doesn't not have a zero stop or atleast an ability to know what rev 0 is.
4. Parallex adjustment.
5. Clarity

My experience is shooting ~ 2000 precision rifle rounds a year and being ranked in the top 50 in the nation in the PRS the last 3 years.

But coming from a guy that is selling *Real-Deal Holyfield* rifles with *SNIPER* barrels I guess I’m preaching to the choir

Wow! way to get personal!
First, people who use SFP are RETARDS
Next, I don't know that the Remington 5r Milspec is a direct derivative (same action, same barrel) of the M24 SNIPER WEAPON SYSTEM (yes...that is the F-ing name of the military rifle to which the 5r milspec is a direct derivative of...I didn't try to "sound cool" in my ad other than CLEARLY jesting about a boxer!).

Then, You come here and tell a guy who just bought a $650, 20 inch barreled, .308 factory rifle that he should be looking into $1000 optics and are arguing that there is NO other choice than FFP. I'm giving PRACTICAL advice from a PRACTICAL shooter who has both. I have $2k plus optics, but most of my hunting and shooting is done with $500 optics. The poster is NOT looking for competition grade shooting or you would have corrected SOMETHING about his choice of rifles by now (surely with your vast COMPETITION experience!).

The .308 in question should be flat (enough for all practical purposes) to 200 yds (250 max with longer barrel). The scopes you guys have selected should be at or near max power from then on out. From there, turrets would be fine or holdovers in either SFP or FFP scopes. Say WHATEVER you want about moving targets and engaging close/far targets and you gave ONE example that I'm sorry not one-thousandth of "normal" shooters will ever use in a shooting scenario. You should have told the shooter that 1,000 yds is WAAAY too much to expect from a .308 out of a 20" barrel

PLEASE stop and rethink what you are arguing, how you have portrayed yourself in the argument, and what REALLY you're trying to say touting all of your experience in such a simple question.

Patrick

(and remove my phone number from your post as that was in HORRIBLE taste. I delete my ads when the firearms are sold and I'd rather not have my number floating around on the internet.)