Sorry, AR-15's are not like LEGO

[DAVE_M]

Only problem with the easy outs or back outs is they aren’t the end all/do all. Sometimes the fastener is cranked in there and you can’t get the amount of torque you need to remove it, at which point you need to drill the fastener remnants and retap to clean the threads. It does take a little more precision than one would think.

https://www.bayoushooter.com/forums/showthread.php?163317-How-the-H-E-double-L-!!&highlight=

Funny you mention that, because in your case, the screw was wedged into a hole that wasn't threaded. Anderson lowers are notorious for that. If you have a screw lodged in a threaded hole, an extractor is the appropriate step to removing the sheared screw after one takes the appropriate steps to loosen any threadlocker that may have been applied. Chasing the threads isn't a terrible idea.

Ya mean a former coworker that used red locktite on his scope rings? He couldn't understand why he couldn't get the screws out. He also used it between the rings & scope.

A soldering iron or woodburner takes care of red loctite. It's not as difficult to remove as people think. It's even easier to remove when it wasn't properly applied in the first place.

It’s worth pointing out the bit and drill motor you use the drill something out shouldn’t have a lot of run-out. An other words if some monkey put too much pressure using them before and bent the bit or the shaft of the drill motor you will make a cluster. It’s nothing like shattering a bit or trashing what you’re working on. Two takeaways buy good bits and don’t abuse, or allow others to abuse your tools.

Not only runout, but also start small. A lot of people grab the biggest bit and expect it to stay centered. It's also worth noting that you don't always need to use a drill with a screw extractor. There are times when it's better suited to use a bit driver or ratchet.

 

[340six]

Surprisingly, Irwin makes sets that designed better and relatively inexpensive.

I have used those and agree. They are good and priced right.

 

[DAVE_M]

And since this discussion originally began due to those tiny set screws, a button head screw is a good replacement. It allows for a larger hex key or hex bit to be used and fits nicely in the countersunk recess.

 

[Bangswitch]

Funny you mention that, because in your case, the screw was wedged into a hole that wasn't threaded. Anderson lowers are notorious for that. If you have a screw lodged in a threaded hole, an extractor is the appropriate step to removing the sheared screw after one takes the appropriate steps to loosen any threadlocker that may have been applied. Chasing the threads isn't a terrible idea.



A soldering iron or woodburner takes care of red loctite. It's not as difficult to remove as people think. It's even easier to remove when it wasn't properly applied in the first place.



Not only runout, but also start small. A lot of people grab the biggest bit and expect it to stay centered. It's also worth noting that you don't always need to use a drill with a screw extractor. There are times when it's better suited to use a bit driver or ratchet.

I’ve always used a tap handle or ratchet to turn the extractor. I also tend to ‘tap’ in the easy-out with a small ball peen (8-12oz) hammer. It really helps.

 

[DAVE_M]

I’ve always used a tap handle or ratchet to turn the extractor. I also tend to ‘tap’ in the easy-out with a small ball peen (8-12oz) hammer. It really helps.

Both are good to use. Tapping it in is a must. Gives it that extra bite.

Honestly, I was surprised that extractor was able to get the set screw out, given how small it is. There is a good chance I'll have to use it again soon, because I have a stripped screw on an A2 receiver extension that needs some persuasion to loosen up.

 

[T-Rigger]

Surprisingly, Irwin makes sets that designed better and relatively inexpensive.

Thanks for the input, I'll check it out.

 

[T-Rigger]

Great pointer! Installation looks great. No need to replace a weak link with one of potential equal fragility if it doesn't have to fit flush or be recessed.

 

[T-Rigger]

Try Chapman bits, they are the best bits I have found. Pricey, and only for hand use, no power tools suggested.

The 1/16 bit fits those magpul set screws perfectly. Holds them well enough to use a small wire brush to get the loctite off.

Thanks for the tip - I'll take a look.