Welding sheet metal

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  • Dan6726

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    Feb 19, 2012
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    Boyce,La.
    So I’ve got a project truck that needs some welding done for patch panels that I want to do myself. I currently have a miller dialarc 220v stick machine that I can’t get to turn down low enough to weld light gauge sheetmetal. Any one got any recommendations on a machine capable of doing this without warping? I’d like to use a wirefeed mig setup. Just haven’t looked hard enough and was wondering if any members could point me in the right direction.
     

    dmiculek

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    Choose a machine that can run .023 solid core wire with a shielding gas (75% Ar/25% co2) I would avoid a machine that has pre set adjustments for either voltage or wire speed. You'll want to be able to fine tune it to your specific application.
    If all your work is going to be outdoors you may have to consider using flux core wire. Wind plays hell on the shielding gas.
    You generally get what you pay for and it certainly is no different with welding machines. Miller, Lincoln, Esab come to mind in regards to quality machines.


    Lots of good stuff on Youtube in regards to welding sheetmetal to autobodies. Your basically going to be using a series of "tacks" along the whole seam. Beauty of the mig is heat distortion using that method is minimal. Spend your time getting a good fit and go slow. I'll soon be welding floors in my 63 Corvair.
     
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    highstandard40

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    Donnie's advice is spot on. I am merely a hobby welder but I do weld quite a bit. I had a Lincoln stick welder and since I made the jump to a Miller wire feed with shielding gas, the Lincoln had done nothing but collect dust. Regarding warping, avoiding heating small areas excessively can help. Don't run long beads all at once. Go slow.
     

    Labeeman

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    Hobart is a nice machine for the money. I have the 210 mvp which runs on 110 or 220. If you are on a budget the new Harbor Frieght machines are decent. I’ve watched many reviews on these on you tube recently and a majority of the reviews were good on these. If you have the means and want something you will have forever then get one of the name brands machines as you can’t go wrong with these, but you certainly could make some decent welds with the harbor frieght mig welders.
     

    sksshooter

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    Hobart is built by miller. I went with a hobart 140 when i replaced my lincoln. The 140 is a 110 machine capable of welding flux of gas shielded wire and can add a spool gun for aluminum. The same miller machine is about double the price and the only difference is the infinite heat knob. On hobart machine it has a graduated knob. Seems a large number of people buy the hobart and change the knob which is about $23 iirc. I havent gotten the new shop setup yet to really put it to use but ive welded a few things with it and am pleased.
     

    kbownds

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    If you are budget crunched, the harbor freight 110 wire feed welder is a good option. I use it for light gauge all the time and its perfect for that. Make sure your wire feed is slow and temp is very low. The metal will tell you what will work and what will not. Practice on a scrap piece first to get the temp and speed down.
     

    103M 95G

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    I'm not a welder, but it is not recommended that body work be done with Flux core wire. apparently the flux will bleed through what ever you cover it with.
     

    Doctor481

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    Try to stick with a brand with local access to consumables.
    I have had a Miller 135 mig for 10 years(?), it’s a 110 vac unit that’s welds way above it’s rated capacity.
    I also recommend solid wire with mixed gas, especially for auto sheet metal work
     

    Danny Abear

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    I'm not a welder, but it is not recommended that body work be done with Flux core wire. apparently the flux will bleed through what ever you cover it with.

    Flix core is ok for floor work but use gas for exterior sheet metal; it is impossible to remove 100% of the flux and 1 speck of it will later cause you problems with paint.
     

    340six

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    Flix core is ok for floor work but use gas for exterior sheet metal; it is impossible to remove 100% of the flux and 1 speck of it will later cause you problems with paint.

    My best friend owns a body shop. He has a smaller one now as he had a very large one before. When he moved he used my 110 Lincoln with proper gas. It did great sheet metal and even light frames. It did have a great amount of wire speed and head settings.
    Even did light unibody frames.
    I told him to keep it after he had it for 2 years. He still uses it after 12 years for sheet metal. Floors and panel swaps are easy as you are just filling holes {plug welds}
    But welds are made easier if you buy a set of the clamps they sell that hold the patch panels apart. They hold it together and apart.
    MR. Donnie came but few months back to get something he saw my work.
     

    pullstart

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    Millermatic 180, 190, or 211. I have owned the 180 an it was the best machine for welding thin metal I have ever used. I upgraded to the 212 thinking bigger was better but I was wrong. I just sold the 212 and on the hunt for a 180, 190, or 211 model.
     

    340six

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    I posted since not everyone has 220, But does have a 110 20 amp. The 220 machines are better. But nothing wrong with 110 name brand machines. They will do most everything a hobby guy needs.
    My buddies shop used one for quite some time.
    Get one with as many wire and heat settings as you can.
     
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