Camera Questions

[local2fed]

What types of cameras are you guys using to photograph your weapons? I have a pretty expensive digitial camera, but cant get it to capture the high quality photos i was hoping for. I see these guys post these weapons photos and they are super sharp with intense detail. Are these cameras outfitted with special lenses? Someone said the macro lenses are needed for these up close and personal detailed photos. Im clueless.

 

[aroundlsu]

Well maybe we can start with exactly which "pretty expensive" camera you are using and what lens are you using? Also, how are you trying to light your pictures?

 

[LACamper]

Teddy, why don't you post some suggestions for getting the most out of what we have now. I'd like to upgrade to a DSLR but its not in the budget right now...

I'm still using a very basic point and shoot right now (hp Photosmart M425).

Some points on lighting, etc. would be appreciated.

 

[yamatitan]

Also a recommendation for a good all around canon lens for a rebel DSLR.

 

[madmax4x4]

use the little thing that looks like a flower macro to get close up

 

[Saftman]

Are you printing your photos or viewing them on your computer? If viewing them & your screen resolution/dpi, etc. isn't very good that may be why they appear to be low quality. If printing them are you using a glossy photo paper?

 

[local2fed]

Well maybe we can start with exactly which "pretty expensive" camera you are using and what lens are you using? Also, how are you trying to light your pictures?

Using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1. Maybe Ill try to add some light.

 

[asianpersuasion]

If you post your pic maybe some guys can offer some tips

 

[Nolacopusmc]

Canon 7d and Canon T2i (550D)

Though in hindight, there is nothing that I can do with the twice as expensive 7 D that I cannot do with the T2i. I would also probably get the 60D instead of either since it has the swing out LCD display.

 

[topgunz1]

I thought the swing out display felt cheap for as much as the camera cost...

Best general purpose lens for a Canon with a crop sensor? Canon 17-55 F2.8 If it wasn't $1000 I'd buy one today.

 

[Tulse Luper]

Using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1. Maybe Ill try to add some light.

Yea, you shouldn't have any problem with that.

Try to find a place that's well lit but diffuse, like under a porch or near a window with an opaque shade or curtain. You want even, diffuse light. You can make homemade reflectors by covering a piece of card board with tinfoil and use them sparingly to add light here and there; they work well for getting rid of bad shadows.

Putting the camera on a tripod and using the self-timer or a cable release always helps. It lets you repeat the shot from the same position. That is helpful when you are experimenting with changing stuff (fill flash, reflector, exposure, etc.). Take a few pics, changing only one variable at a time, download them, and look at what changed.

After that you can look at using the on-board flash for fill light if it's manually controllable.

Try natural lighting first and post the pics. I'd like to see them from that camera.

 

[Blackhawk]

I've found that my best photos are made outside, in the shade. This gives a diffused light with no harsh shadows. I use a light background that won't distract from the article being photographed. A poncho liner in ACU or DCU works fine, and I've even stretched out a white sheet. I usually thumbtack it up about 3 ft on a wall, and let it drape out toward me on the ground for another 3 ft. Many cameras also have a + or - feature so that you can adjust the exposure (add or subtract light). Experiment with this.

To get the best photos, use the close-up feature for anything closer than about 2 ft. One other trick is to stand back several feet, then zoom in to see the same feature that you would have focused on if you were up close.

Lastly, use a tripod or a monopod if at all possible. it minimizes blur and makes everything seem more clear. This is especially important if you don't have sufficient light on the subject (hence the "outside" light I referred in the first paragraph).

A couple of sample photos attached. Not the best, but what I had quickly on hand.

One statement on theory: The camera is basically an idiot. All it knows is that it needs a certain amount of light on a subject. If it doesn't have enough light, it holds the shutter open for a longer period of time in order to get that light. The longer the shutter is open (or the cell is exposed, whatever) the more time is there for the camera to shake due to your shakey hands or even breathing. Lots of light is good.

Speaking of light again, avoid fluorescent lights - they shift the color away from what you normally see. Ever notice a yellowish tint to photos under fluorescents? Best light is outside, followed by incandescents, and best of the incandescents without getting into special photo bulbs is the "Reveal" brand of lightbulbs. A couple of the Reveal bulbs in floodlight reflectors on either side of the subject should provide plenty of light, but to avoid shadows you might have to reflect the light off a wall or ceiling or drape some sheer cloth over the reflector.

 

[aroundlsu]

The best general purpose lens could be debated forever but generally I recommend whichever one of the 50mm primes you can afford. Canon makes a 1.8, 1.4, and 1.2. They are priced drastically different so just get the one you can afford. Most people will get the 1.8 for about $100 and it will do fine for general photography.

Topgunz likes the zoom lenses but I try to steer people away from them and teach foot zooming.

Regarding lighting, there are plenty of books that teach proper lighting but I just throw up whatever lights I can get my hands on and move them around until the shot looks good. Remember, lights don't always have to be pointed at your subject. In fact, it's almost always better to bounce your light off of something like a wall, the ceiling, a piece of white foamboard, or anything really. Bounced light is softlight.

 

[Bearco]

The best general purpose lens could be debated forever but generally I recommend whichever one of the 50mm primes you can afford. Canon makes a 1.8, 1.4, and 1.2. They are priced drastically different so just get the one you can afford. Most people will get the 1.8 for about $100 and it will do fine for general photography.

The Canon 1.8 50 would work great for this, but I find it is not wide enough as a general purpose on my crop sensor Ti2.

 

[topgunz1]

Primes and moving around can really help your composition, but most people just want to be able to throw up the camera and take a picture of what they see. 80mm (50mm on a 1.6 crop) is pretty narrow for that.

I used the 50 1.8 in an aquarium since flash would bounce off of the glass, it was pretty crowded and I had trouble framing some larger shots since I had to back up so much people kept getting in the way.

 

[asianpersuasion]

I recently bought a 30mm f1.4 and it's been fun to use

 

[aroundlsu]

I used the 50 1.8 in an aquarium since flash would bounce off of the glass, it was pretty crowded and I had trouble framing some larger shots since I had to back up so much people kept getting in the way.

Use L glass and people move out of your way.

 

[topgunz1]

Use L glass and people move out of your way.

Should have seen the looks I was getting at that cheer competition packing the 70-200 2.8 IS on a gripped 50D... people couldn't tell if I was a professional or a pervert. Little did they know I'm both

 

[Tulse Luper]

For handguns check out this thread on POTN. This thing can do wonders:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=281524&highlight=light+box&page=264

Start at the end of the thread and read back.

I'm sure you could build one for long guns, but it would take some room.

I'd like to hear some suggest on how to prop up long guns. They are a pain to shoot.

 

[aroundlsu]

I took a c stand arm painted black and stuck it in the pistol grip of an ar to prop it up. I have also tried suspending with wires and removing the wires in Photoshop. But the c stand arm worked best.