Help Building 1st AR-15
- Thread starter cjacobs
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The Anderson stripped lower would be fine. I have several builds on them and they are GTG. Lowers really won't make any difference. Throw in a PSA blem upper(approx $39)....and there are many good free float handguards out there now days for $100-150.
Put most of your money into a quality Barrel, BCG, Trigger, optic, etc.
The two biggest pieces of the puzzle for my builds are the barrel and trigger. Spending a little extra in these areas can get you a good bit more accuracy/enjoyment. Be careful with the heavy fluted barrels because they will add weight to the rifle that may not be necessary. I've seen a lot of builds go south because of heavy contour 16" barrels that weigh a ton.
This is also the time to consider gas system type and length. I personally prefer mid-length DI systems on a 16" rifle. Many factory rifles still use a carbine length system, but one advantage to building is choosing these features for yourself.
As others have said, the Anderson lower is fine. Forged lowers and uppers are nearly identical in spec across different brands, and many are manufactured in the same factories.
I like lower parts from either Stag Arms or Rock River as they are high quality with roll pins that are actual roll pins and not split pins.
This is also the time to consider gas system type and length. I personally prefer mid-length DI systems on a 16" rifle. Many factory rifles still use a carbine length system, but one advantage to building is choosing these features for yourself.
As others have said, the Anderson lower is fine. Forged lowers and uppers are nearly identical in spec across different brands, and many are manufactured in the same factories.
I like lower parts from either Stag Arms or Rock River as they are high quality with roll pins that are actual roll pins and not split pins.
If going with a 16" barrel I recommend a mid-length gas system. They soften the recoil and offer more hand guard space.
I wouldn't recommend a stainless fluted/bull barrel, they're heavy and expensive. A good quality mil-spec barrel will get you all the accuracy you need for 200 yards.
I wouldn't recommend a stainless fluted/bull barrel, they're heavy and expensive. A good quality mil-spec barrel will get you all the accuracy you need for 200 yards.
Agree on both of these. Not a fan of the heavy sprial fluted barrels(added weight that is not necessary)
For big game hunting with the 5.56, get a 1:7 twist barrel since it'll stabilize heavy grain soft point 223 a lot better than other twists. The 5.56 is typically a slightly more powerful military round so you'll generally be hunting with 223 which you can shoot through a 5.56 but not the other way around. Do NOT use the military ammo for hunting. The military ammo can be pretty inhumane for hunting animals with as it wasn't designed for that. It's designed to fragment if the conditions are correct, which happens more in combat situations than it does in hunting. If it doesn't fragment it'll just torture the animal and you'll end up expending more and more ammo to finish it off. If it does fragment properly, it may spoil the meat/trophy/fur/whatever from the animal.
As for the gun itself, as others have mentioned your barrel should be your top priority, followed by the trigger. I typically go for AK's in this price range, but AK's aren't as good for hunting with because of available ammo types. You can get AR's as low as 600 and probably less, but I generally don't really like ARs without at least 1000 invested into them. The low end ARs are really unimpressive, but you can get a really nice AK for 600-700. I'm certainly not trying to steer you toward a AK for reasons previously mentioned with ammo, but I do recommend increasing your budget to around 1000 if you can manage it. You could probably get some used daniel defense/larue/noveske/spike's parts in that budget, or just find a good deal on them or a complete rifle in that budget, and those are a lot more impressive than the colts/dpms/psa/delton/etc stuff that you're probably going to be forced to stick with if you go with a budget of 800.
Lastly, stick with a good old DI gas system. Gas piston systems are more reliable/cleaner, which makes them better in a lot of ways if you're a soldier, or trying to survive longer term out in the wilderness, or you enjoy burying your rifle in mud...but a DI system will provide more accuracy if all you're wanting it for is going out for xyz amount of hours, throwing a small amount of rounds at some game(unless you're a terrible shot, in which case you probably should spend some time at the range before you go hunting), and then going back to your air conditioned home where you can clean your gun after you're finished playing. Fortunately most ARs use a DI system, but this is something to look out for since you don't want to buy the wrong thing.
As for the gun itself, as others have mentioned your barrel should be your top priority, followed by the trigger. I typically go for AK's in this price range, but AK's aren't as good for hunting with because of available ammo types. You can get AR's as low as 600 and probably less, but I generally don't really like ARs without at least 1000 invested into them. The low end ARs are really unimpressive, but you can get a really nice AK for 600-700. I'm certainly not trying to steer you toward a AK for reasons previously mentioned with ammo, but I do recommend increasing your budget to around 1000 if you can manage it. You could probably get some used daniel defense/larue/noveske/spike's parts in that budget, or just find a good deal on them or a complete rifle in that budget, and those are a lot more impressive than the colts/dpms/psa/delton/etc stuff that you're probably going to be forced to stick with if you go with a budget of 800.
Lastly, stick with a good old DI gas system. Gas piston systems are more reliable/cleaner, which makes them better in a lot of ways if you're a soldier, or trying to survive longer term out in the wilderness, or you enjoy burying your rifle in mud...but a DI system will provide more accuracy if all you're wanting it for is going out for xyz amount of hours, throwing a small amount of rounds at some game(unless you're a terrible shot, in which case you probably should spend some time at the range before you go hunting), and then going back to your air conditioned home where you can clean your gun after you're finished playing. Fortunately most ARs use a DI system, but this is something to look out for since you don't want to buy the wrong thing.
Apologies if anything I said so far has been shot down in the thread already since I didn't read the whole thread, but yeah...if you're looking for accuracy don't go with a chrome-lined barrel.
Chrome lining increases the life of a barrel but decreases the accuracy. You're probably not in the budget for a nitrocarburized barrel or something along those lines, but if you are, get something like that. They have as good of accuracy as steel and better durability than chrome lined barrels. They are more expensive though.
And yes, I'd get a longer barrel than 16 if you're looking for a lot of long range accuracy.
I've seen HBAR barrels shoot groups plenty tight enough for 200 yards. But I'd keep an eye out for a deal on a good stainless barrel in .223 Wylde. Definitely 1:7 twist. I've seen them go in the sub $200 range often. I wouldn't rule out PSA's complete lowers, as I've bought a few even in Magpul furniture for way under $200, and a few classic blems in the $129 range. If you go to their site and get on the email notification list, you'll see a deal that week.
The one thing I looked to see if anybody had addressed was the OP possibly wanting to go suppressed at some point. That's a tall order unless you plan your barrel/gas system accordingly or you'll be hand cranking every round you shoot. And I'm hoping you aren't intending to hunt hogs with a 75gr bullet lobbing out at around 1000fps or less by point of impact. Not saying a good ear shot would not do it, but you could almost do the same with a .22 and some Aguila 60grainers.
I know too many people who have had great success killing pigs with .223/5.56 rifles to ever say they aren't potent enough, but I prefer .300 AAC for chores of that nature, suppressed or not.
Happy Hunting!
The one thing I looked to see if anybody had addressed was the OP possibly wanting to go suppressed at some point. That's a tall order unless you plan your barrel/gas system accordingly or you'll be hand cranking every round you shoot. And I'm hoping you aren't intending to hunt hogs with a 75gr bullet lobbing out at around 1000fps or less by point of impact. Not saying a good ear shot would not do it, but you could almost do the same with a .22 and some Aguila 60grainers.
I know too many people who have had great success killing pigs with .223/5.56 rifles to ever say they aren't potent enough, but I prefer .300 AAC for chores of that nature, suppressed or not.
Happy Hunting!
SpeedRacer
Well-Known Member
You don't need some long or heavy barrel for accuracy, especially not for sub 200yd shots. Any quality AR barrel will get that job done, no need for stainless or longer than 16". A good chrome lined barrel with good ammo will be more accurate than most people can shoot. I'd personally recommend a 16" midlength Daniel Defense or BCM barrel for your needs and budget.
Buy a good barrel and BCG, they are the heart of the AR platform. The rest is much more forgiving when it comes to using budget parts.
Buy a good barrel and BCG, they are the heart of the AR platform. The rest is much more forgiving when it comes to using budget parts.
If you're not in a hurry, PSA has some good buys. Look for their blemish stuff. You can get some good buys on complete uppers. A lot of their barrels are made by FN. My only complaint about them is they don't ship fast. It can take weeks to get stuff.
I've seen several recommendations on getting a Colt. Any particular model in mind?
