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  • JWG223

    Well-Known Member
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    7   0   0
    Aug 16, 2011
    6,000
    36
    Shreveport
    Did a search and didn't find a whole lot, so sorry if this is a dupe. I should get my new upper this week, and I will be breaking in the new build (upper, lower, BCG, CH, etc.). There are a host of different lubes on the market (see list below) and I am curious as to what most of you use (I'm sure that I have left some off).

    CLP (only one that is MIL-SPEC and DOD approved AFAIK)--It is an awesome preservative, and slowly dissolves brass marks on deflectors.
    Slip 2000--I have not tried it.
    Frog Lube--I had rust issues when using this product and discontinued using it and gave it away to someone who wanted to try it.
    TW25B--I really like this stuff, works great on my guns that get a light grease like my M1014 shotgun, but gun-scrubber turns it into chalk, have to wipe clean.
    M-Pro--I use MPro7-LPX on anything that gets oil. It is like CLP v2.0 for me, made it through a whole Viking Tactics class with no issues without cleaning or re-lubing.
    Hoppes--Never used it.
    Rem Oil--This is junk. It does nothing well. Use it to lubricate door-locks or something.
    Ballistol---Never used it.
    Lubri-Plate---Never used it.
    Slipstream---Never used it.
    Mobile One---My LS1 hated it, my LS7 loved it, it's a synthetic motor-oil. Good for lubing, so-so for corrosion prevention, not so much on dissolving carbon.
    ???

    In addition, how "wet" would you go for the first 100 rounds or so?

    Thanks

    Well...here is my BCG after 1600 rounds or so:
    33vyk5i.jpg

    2wg87c0.jpg


    IMO, a firearm is not a sealed system, and you cannot run it too wet. It will spit out what it doesn't like. You may put a bunch on the outside and end up with a sugar-cookie, but it's going to run better wet, anyway, because wet sludge/grit is better than dry sludge/grit, and only so much sludge/grit can fit in critical areas, so it really doesn't matter how wet the thing is.

    Just my .02, but maybe some people who have "BTDT" can answer your question from the standpoint of more experience. I just know what I have observed on the square range.
     
    Last edited:

    Sin-ster

    GM of 4 Letter Outbursts
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    33   0   0
    Slide Glide; it's slowly phased out TW25B as both my competition and carry lubricant.

    I knew/know what it does under heavy abuse, heat, and a lot of fouling. I was curious what it would do just sitting around in a holster for EDC.

    Then I found a drip on the underside of my press, full of powder, tumbling media, other dirty grease, etc. It's been there for 2 years-- the only time I would have physically been able to get it down there.

    I found it because it felt like I had wiped my nose with the back of my hand. Slicker than ever, and still with the "stringy" quality that keeps it from flinging, running, etc.

    The downside is I'm tempted to just never clean anything, because even pitch black with fouling, I can barely tell a difference in movement of the slide, slickness of the trigger group, etc. Considering that TRUE (i.e. burned) carbon fouling is akin to graphite anyway... it makes sense.
     

    JWG223

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    7   0   0
    Aug 16, 2011
    6,000
    36
    Shreveport
    Slide Glide; it's slowly phased out TW25B as both my competition and carry lubricant.

    I knew/know what it does under heavy abuse, heat, and a lot of fouling. I was curious what it would do just sitting around in a holster for EDC.

    Then I found a drip on the underside of my press, full of powder, tumbling media, other dirty grease, etc. It's been there for 2 years-- the only time I would have physically been able to get it down there.

    I found it because it felt like I had wiped my nose with the back of my hand. Slicker than ever, and still with the "stringy" quality that keeps it from flinging, running, etc.

    The downside is I'm tempted to just never clean anything, because even pitch black with fouling, I can barely tell a difference in movement of the slide, slickness of the trigger group, etc. Considering that TRUE (i.e. burned) carbon fouling is akin to graphite anyway... it makes sense.

    Slide Glide is very good stuff and it STAYS PUT. I have noticed though that it will change color over time. I don't know how much this oxidation changes how well it works, though. I am not a tribologist. I did speak with George Fennel at length about the subject, though, and he feels that this Weapon Shield grease offers more. However, owning both products, I feel that the Slide Glide is much more likely to remain in place, and at that point, really, what is wear? Is .0001" more surface wear over 50K rounds worth caring about? I don't know. Either way, SG is some great stuff and even though it's basically "blended in a garage" from what I understand after calling and speaking with either Enos, or someone who works for him (It was a long time ago and don't remember if I spoke with him or someone else of if anyone even DOES work for him, I just don't recall), it gets premium ad-packs and is a well-done product.
     

    Sin-ster

    GM of 4 Letter Outbursts
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    I am 99.9% concerned with lubricity and functionality under adverse conditions, though as I understand it (seen some tests), Slide Glide is also RETARDED good at corrosion resistance.

    I can say for sure that TW25B seems to "crust" a lot faster than Slide Glide changes colors (noticed that as well, BTW), but both seem to slick right back up after the first shot is fired. :dunno:

    Chances are, as you say, they're probably both so damn good and so damn close that it doesn't matter. Maybe 100 years left alone on a gun, it'd make a difference-- but even I'm not THAT lazy with cleaning! I've got a metric crap ton of Slide Glide sitting around that I've picked up here and there, and the stuff just makes me happy for some reason other than the high end functionality!
     

    JWG223

    Well-Known Member
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    7   0   0
    Aug 16, 2011
    6,000
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    Shreveport
    I am 99.9% concerned with lubricity and functionality under adverse conditions, though as I understand it (seen some tests), Slide Glide is also RETARDED good at corrosion resistance. I found it had little to no chemical effect, but it was a good barrier.

    I can say for sure that TW25B seems to "crust" a lot faster than Slide Glide changes colors (noticed that as well, BTW), but both seem to slick right back up after the first shot is fired. :dunno: TW25B I hate. Try removing it with chemical means, and you will, too!

    Chances are, as you say, they're probably both so damn good and so damn close that it doesn't matter. Maybe 100 years left alone on a gun, it'd make a difference-- but even I'm not THAT lazy with cleaning! I've got a metric crap ton of Slide Glide sitting around that I've picked up here and there, and the stuff just makes me happy for some reason other than the high end functionality!

    That is why I like Weapon Shield grease and don't just 100% replace it with Slide Glide. I can hose the weapon off with gun-scrubber and it takes the Weapon Shield grease right off. Of course, everything is give/take. The Slide Glide sticks around more...for better or worse.
     

    Expert684

    Well-Known Member
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    9   0   0
    Jul 24, 2011
    999
    18
    Lafayette
    Ok don't laugh, I mix Break Free 50/50 with engine assembly lube from Autozone for my AR15's and AR10's. it does not "shoot" out of the upper. Works great! I use Mobil 28 grease on my M1A's and Garand's. it's a high speed grease we use in aviation. Break Free in all my pistols.
     

    Scott.Thornton

    Well-Known Member
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    13   0   0
    Jan 23, 2012
    1,467
    36
    Denham Area
    Ok don't laugh, I mix Break Free 50/50 with engine assembly lube from Autozone for my AR15's and AR10's. it does not "shoot" out of the upper. Works great! I use Mobil 28 grease on my M1A's and Garand's. it's a high speed grease we use in aviation. Break Free in all my pistols.

    I think we use that in the crj main and nose wheel bearings. Super thick stuff and sticks well.
     
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