Frozen screws

[Cleburne]

One trick ive found is to get a dremel and deepen that screw slot. Then before even trying to turn it put the screw deiver in the slot and give it a couple good wacks with a hammer. Often times it will break the screw loose and out it comes. I keep a few old screw drivers around for things such as this or can just sacrifice a driver bit. Good luck

Thanks! I have a Dremel, so will give that a try. Initially I thought I'd have to resort to drilling a small hole in the screw head and using an 'Easy Out', but this sounds safer.

 

[Cleburne]

I got the pics.

I would first try soaking them all in Kroil and then trying to remove.

If they still wont budge, I can use my laser to deepen the slot or turn it into a phillips head for more grip. Using Kroil, a deeper slot, and some heat, they should come out.

Thanks! I'll first try deepening the screw heads with my Dremel and see if that does the trick. If not I may have to resort to your laser surgery.

 

[Magdump]

Dude the gas block was over $100

I’m sayin.

 

[Magdump]

Yeah i ordered the gas block when i ordered the barrel. Didnt think i would save that much ordering from bcm and paying more shipping. Beside the Larue GB fits their barrels perfectly.

Is it adjustable?

 

[Bam Bam]

Thanks. I guess I'm too technologically ignorant to get photos from my phone to my laptop It's prevented me from listing 'For Sale' items occasionally.

I attach pics to an email (on phone) that I can access on my laptop, then download them onto laptop, then attach them to my post.

 

[hotbiggun]

Is it adjustable?

You trying to shame me even more. Lol. nope not adj. I spared no expense on this AR. Its a awesome firearm. Im trying to swap out a Spike BAR rail for a thinner Fortis rail.

 

[Gator 45/70]

 

[LACamper]

Dremel a fresh cut across that screw and make it a phillips while you're at it... if not drill it out some and use a broken screw extractor kit.

 

[Magdump]

You trying to shame me even more. Lol. nope not adj. I spared no expense on this AR. Its an awesome firearm. Im trying to swap out a Spike BAR rail for a thinner Fortis rail.

Well, I have a drill press and lots of tools. I’d be willing to give it a go. I’ve successfully drilled a steel grip screw completely out of a AR lower without damaging the threads (ALUMINUM!) and I think I actually posted it here. Anyway, I understand, not trying to shame you. I’d shut it down before I damaged anything if you want me to try. I’m 99% certain I can ace it for you, no charge.
EDIT: found it. Apparently Anderson had an issue for a while with not fully tapping the lowers for the grip screw. First pic in the thread is the one he sent me, asking what he should do. I remember telling him, “nope!”

How the H, E double L ?!!

This is from last year, and I won't DARE mention the member who brought this to me, but just discussing light weight gun smithing and wanted to share. If you ever wanted to know how strong a forged receiver really is, it's strong enough to break a stainless grip screw off in while building it...

bayoushooter.com

 

[John_]

@hotbiggun Mag is very competent, I've seen him in action. When it comes to AR-15 assembly and repairs, he is the man. You should take him up on his generous offer, schedule it with him and drive to Hammond. @Magdump can make short work of it. And you can post a resolution here.

 

[Akajun]

your on the right track with Kroil, use a pencil point torch and get the threads. FYI this problem wasnt created overnight and wont be fixed that way. Ive had sensitive parts that were frozen I would hit with Kroil and a torch for days and weeks before I got them out.
Also purchase an Impact driver kit, the pounding with a hammer and reverse torque will bust most anything out. Deepening and squaring the screw slot a bit with a dremel will help too.
If none of that works, then find someone with a tig torch to put a washer over the screw head, build it back up and over the washer, then weld to a nut and get it out. Then have someone with a lathe clean off the screw head and re cut the slot.

or eliminate the welder and someone with a vertical mill can drill out the screws but youll have to have new screws made.

 

[FXDWG]

For reference.

First suggestion is to read the manual (Look it up on-line - if you know the manufacturer.) for this gun to fully understand how these parts all properly function. There are many details which would be helpful to you right now. Particularly knowing how the various parts are secured is vital since there are many variations. If no manual is available, try Muzzleloading Forums for their FAQ and Ask-a-Question forums to get help there. Otherwise, you need to look on the other side of where these bolts go in since those bolts often go through.

From what I am seeing, there is a chance that the lock could be removed with just the rear lock plate screw removed. The forward sideplate screws are often cosmetic and not drilled through to the lock plate, but some really secure the lock. What is not shown in your photos is whether there is the back end of the forward sideplate screw in the actual lockplate. That would help us understand. Possibly not since the slot is so goobered up... Kroil is a great product, but not getting to the actual threads. Putting Kroil on the lock plate side will help out a lot since these are the threads which hold that bolt in place. After getting the Kroil to the right place, I would try putting the gun in a vise and then using a punch in what remains of the screw slot to tap it with a light hammer in the desired direction to shock it loose and begin to free it. (Lots of little taps is a better idea than fewer hard ones.) The next option would be to drill a hole and insert an easy out which is not fun.

I see that your hammer screw could have the slot deepened with a Dremel which was already suggested, but there is not much reason to do this as you access the important lock parts from the inside. Just leave it as is until you remove the lock and then soak the lock in Kroil, Blast or other good oil. Hammers are too often removed for little to no reason. It is only needed if you are removing the tumbler.

The tang screw is a concern, but the gun vise, punch and light hammer taps may help there as well. Look under the gun to see if the tang bolt goes through the trigger plate. This is a common practice. Kroil there would help out a lot since those are the retaining threads.

But as you say, this gun is a wall hanger. The stock is cracked through the lock mortice, there is excessive rust all over it and the bore is surely no better. I would suspect that this gun is not safe to shoot.

Track of the Wolf is a good source for muzzleloader parts. Also call them for parts which are not listed in their catalog and helpful advice.

Back to quietly lurking.

 

[HLM]

You can dump oil on it and then after a while use a soldering iron to heat the screw heads up and then spritz them with some oil to make the rust heat up and contract. Usually works for me. And is less destructive then dremmleing a slot in it or impact hammering at it. But sometimes a feller ain’t left with much a choice when all else fails just loose it next time ya go fishing.

 

[Jstudz220]

You trying to shame me even more. Lol. nope not adj. I spared no expense on this AR. Its an awesome firearm. Im trying to swap out a Spike BAR rail for a thinner Fortis rail.

Well with kind of gas block was it? I bought a BCM gas block not long ago it was only $50

 

[hotbiggun]

Well with kind of gas block was it? I bought a BCM gas block not long ago it was only $50

LaRue, BCM is $50 plus shipping. The LaRue has a neck on it that lines up perfect with the barrel