Not One U.S. RIFLE CAL. .30 M1 Thread...?

[Cleburne]

"Tim over at Shuff's does both re-Bbling and re-Parks. Very good rep. and prices to match.

Get your bore gauged for the hell of it, but if it looks clean and shoots good? I wouldn't necessarily fool w/ replacing it. You could have them gauge it for you at the re-Park and swap it for a new Criterion if the TE was over ~ 6 and the ME was over ~ 3, and keep the old one as a spare. $375 dollars for both the Bbl. and Park would give you a pretty squared-away rifle."

Thanks for the suggestion Garandimal, I'll take your advice. The cost you've indicated is reasonable for quality work and barrel. But it'll need to wait 'til after the holidays. Other expenses to focus on right now, 'specially with grandkids.

 

[quigleysharps]

Great rifles...always meant to get one someday.

 

[Kcabear]

I have wanted an M1 for some time now. For reasons I will never know, after my Grandfather passed his M1 that he carried through Germany was given to my cousin. I am determined to buy it from him! Guess after the holidays I will have to buy one through the CMP to hold me over until I can get his.

 

[sgt z]

I made some 1/3 Gy Paste and like it. I find it easy to work with.

 

[Garandimal]

Great rifles...always meant to get one someday.

For Garands from the CMP, especially Mail-Order?

These are the Good 'Ol Days.


The CMP estimates that the stock of Greek return Service Grade rifles at ~ 18 months... I think that that is the outside as panic buying at the end tends to dry the bottom out pretty fast.

The new Turks will most likely be pretty rough, w/ Bbl. numbers to match. Might be surprised, but at this point in time you don't have to bet on it.

Have yet to get a SG mail-order from the CMP w/ a Bbl. that gauged ME>1.5 or TE>2.5... and that is Seven (and counting) over the last few years... and Five of them were ME<1.0 and TE<2.0.

SERVICE GRADE: (Good to Very Good)
Service Grade Rifles show less wear and better appearance than Field or Rack Grades. Good to very good condition. Rifle wear will be exhibited by worn and mixed colors of the parkerized finish. There may be some minor pitting on the metal parts. Wood will be either Walnut, Birch, Beech or other variety and will be basically sound but may have minor hairline cracks, dings, scratches and gouges. Wood may not match in color or type of wood. Wood may be of new production on Service Grade Garands. Bores will be generally good with only minor imperfections. The barrel crown may be nicked, but the muzzle will gauge "3 or less" and the throat erosion will gauge less than 5.

At ~ 2,000 rounds/TE(n) and 6,000 rounds/ME(n)... the SG Bbl.s of late are near new [ME=0.5(+/-0.5) TE=1.5(+/-1.0)] w/ 10,000+ rounds of good shooting left in'em.

I am expecting the Turks to be at or near the max SG spec.

I made some 1/3 Gy Paste and like it. I find it easy to work with.

Yep, that's great stuff for field rifles. (especially if you happen to shoot or hunt where it might possibly RAIN on occasion )

My "shooters" get a coat first of the season. (and use Marine Grease)




GR

 

[s2tbolt]

The across the course match at Palo Alto on the third Saturday in December is the annual pearl harbor match. Bring out your M1 Garands and 03A3's. Should have better than ball ammo for the 600 yard line. The Hornady ammo is great if you can't load your own. It is a great match and alot of fun. Some people come dressed in character from WWII for added fun. You can contact match director Jay Hunt or myself on here for more info.

See the last page of this link.

http://www.paloaltogunclub.com/documents/XTCProgram2012.pdf

Thanks for the info Owen!
Recently aquired this one...

and would like to learn more about these historic weapons. Have not fired it yet so really
looking more to learn than being ready to compete. Y'all allow Noob's?

 

[flamatrix99]

Can you post a pic of the trigger group sittin' in the rifle?

If the trigger guard closes so that the end is about where the tip of the trigger is? It will close.

Put some grease on the locking studs on the bottom side (next to the mag-well cover), squeeze everything tight together, and then hammer the trigger-guard down into place with the heel of your palm or a mallet. (they use mallets at the Armory if need be)

If it won't close near to the tip of the trigger, then there is a little stock work you can do.

Let me know and I'll post you a link.

It's better, though, to get it to close as is, and let the wood crush over time and use.

Loose lock-up due to a poor fitting stock will ruin the rifle's accuracy.




GR

Sorry it took so long... Here it is... I put a lot of ass into it trying to get it to close...

 

[Garandimal]

Sorry it took so long... Here it is... I put a lot of ass into it trying to get it to close...

That's right where you want it for a good tight lock-up.

Grease the trigger guard locking lugs like I explained (ask again if it is still confusing to you), run the rear sight all the way down, set the rifle on its back (front and rear sight ears) on a sturdy, firm surface (wood table or floor)...

...and then jam that baby home w/ the heel of your palm 'till it clicks shut.

As it is an over-center cam lock, once it gets close the resistance will diminish so that all you need to do is overcome the latch.

These rifles are very robust and were made to be "recruit" proof, and R/I of the trigger group is a basic part of field stripping.

Or you can do it this way:



The only thing that is a little "touchous" is the op-rod. try not to bend it when you remove/install it.


Here is what the CMP says about one that needs work.

How Tight Is Too Tight For My Garand Trigger Group?




GR

 

[340six]

My SA 5-55 dated is tight like that
http://s234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Garand/?albumview=slideshow tight to get open too.
As a USGI weapon it was shot very little.
it does have some slight flaws that made it a "correct" instead of a "collector" grade looks like it was opened with something as it is also tight to open as it is to close

 

[EonDresari]

This thread makes me want to put a finish on my CMP stock. I'm going to take mine out with my M1 Carbine on Thursday, Veterans day may me want to shoot some American wood n steel.

Side bar: Anyone have any experience with the new made M1 Carbine stocks from the CMP

 

[Gunfighter]

New to this site but not to Garands. Found mine several years ago in a small gun shop in Pennsylvania. Paid $300 for it. Springfield manufacturer 1943. Never shot it. Parkerizing is a bit worn on the barrel but the stock's in great shape as is the receiver. I love military rifles. Would like to find a nice 03-A3 I could afford as well as an M1 Carbine.

 

[Jughead]

I have been collector of US military arms and a frequent participant in the CMP offerings.I used to volunteer there a lot but not in recent years. If anyone wants to buy USGI mint M1 clips contact me $1.50 each.

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.

.

 

[mineralman55]

If you would like to keep it accurate to the period BLO would be the way to go. I've played with 100% pure Tung Oil. It's a REAL PITA to work with when compared to BLO.

Dave

It just takes patience to work with PTO. As you probably know you have to put it on relatively thin, thoroughly rub it down after 20 minutes or so, and let it dry at least a day before repeating. Most of us don't have the patience for the 6 or so coats done that way. Also, I prefer the reddish tint BLO eventually gets.

 

[flamatrix99]

That's right where you want it for a good tight lock-up.

Grease the trigger guard locking lugs like I explained (ask again if it is still confusing to you), run the rear sight all the way down, set the rifle on its back (front and rear sight ears) on a sturdy, firm surface (wood table or floor)...

...and then jam that baby home w/ the heel of your palm 'till it clicks shut.

As it is an over-center cam lock, once it gets close the resistance will diminish so that all you need to do is overcome the latch.

These rifles are very robust and were made to be "recruit" proof, and R/I of the trigger group is a basic part of field stripping.

Or you can do it this way:

The only thing that is a little "touchous" is the op-rod. try not to bend it when you remove/install it.


Here is what the CMP says about one that needs work.

How Tight Is Too Tight For My Garand Trigger Group?


GR

I greased it and it gets harder the closer it gets... CMP said it shouldn't be that hard.

 

[Garandimal]

I greased it and it gets harder the closer it gets... CMP said it shouldn't be that hard.

I out a new CMP stock on mine and now I can not get the trigger guard closed. I got so mad I threw the whole rifle in the trash. Then after a calmed down a day or so later i got it out but it still won't close.

Quit bein' a girl about it.

[/QUOTE]

The guard is well past the trigger.

Grease the locking lugs, squeeze the magwell cover/stock/receiver together, and slam the trigger guard down w/ the palm of your hand.

It's all steel, and the grease will keep the lugs from wearing.

The magwell cover will flex (spring) out a little. The wood will compress.


It is a Battle Rifle - designed to w/stand Army privates.



GR

 

[Gunfighter]

New to this thread. Where is Aniston? Is this the CMP store?

 

[Garandimal]

New to this thread. Where is Aniston? Is this the CMP store?

Anniston, AL.

CMP South Store.




GR

 

[flamatrix99]

The guard is well past the trigger.

Grease the locking lugs, squeeze the magwell cover/stock/receiver together, and slam the trigger guard down w/ the palm of your hand.

It's all steel, and the grease will keep the lugs from wearing.

The magwell cover will flex (spring) out a little. The wood will compress.


It is a Battle Rifle - designed to w/stand Army privates.



GR

I put a lot of ass into it and it did not budge... and I have alot of ass..

 

[Garandimal]

I put a lot of ass into it and it did not budge... and I have alot of ass..

Then either look through this and correct it yourself...

How Tight Is Too Tight For My Garand Trigger Group?

...Find a local Armorer that works on Garands, or call customer service at the CMP (if it is a recent purchase) and ask for a call tag to ship it back to them for service.

Me? it looks OK and as long as the guard is past the trigger, it will usually close and eventually (if new wood) will settle out and compress. Usually in this case, removing wood leads to loose lock-up down the road.


My $0.02. (...worth slightly less than the acquisition cost )