Revolver

[smith625]

I have removed the locks from mine and externally it appears there but internally is not. I do not see the big issue with the lock, just take it out or have the part taken out by a smith. It is a 15 minute procedure. I have a pre and post lock 686 and the later has a better barrel then the earlier version. (it shoots better) Just my opinion, but i shoot a lot of revolver competition and it works for me.

 

[mrmojo32]

Get you one like this - Model 27-2; 5 inch bbl. I bought it new in 1971, and it's still with me.

Teesur.... If that is indeed your 1st post, then welcome to the forums.

 

[Nomad.2nd]

I have removed the locks from mine and externally it appears there but internally is not. I do not see the big issue with the lock, just take it out or have the part taken out by a smith. It is a 15 minute procedure. I have a pre and post lock 686 and the later has a better barrel then the earlier version. (it shoots better) Just my opinion, but i shoot a lot of revolver competition and it works for me.

Other quality...

3 piece barrels, pressed metal powder parts etc.

IIRC there's a way to 'mess up' the taking out of the lock.

Too many 'no locks' out there to bother.

 

[smith625]

opinions vary

 

[teesur]

Teesur.... If that is indeed your 1st post, then welcome to the forums.

Thank you Sir, for the welcome. Tis indeed my first post, not however, my first rodeo.
Maybe you might prefer a longer barrel. Try one of these, a 1966 model 27-2, 6 inch.
I've had this one since '66 and it also shoots pretty good.
teesur.

 

[scooterj]

Ed, I did the same thing on my 360PD; simply removed the "flag" thingy. All was peachy for years, and several thousand rounds. Then one day, the remaining mechanism simply fell into the frame, locking the gun up tighter than Dick's hat band.

The way it SHOULD be done is to grind the nub (the part that actually locks the hammer) off of the flag, leaving the "flag" in place. That way, the mechanism has no place to go, being held in place by that flag; and if it self-actuates, no problem. You'll get some hammer drag out of it, but you know how to deal with that.

.

And then there's my way. I "bobbed" my hammers and cut away the part of the hammer that the lock engages. Then I took it a step further and removed anything that had anything to do with the lock.
As for the MEM parts, have never had one fail in any gun!!!!!

 

[mrmojo32]

It seems like the best thing to do is going to be just take my time and find a good pre lock 686. There is one other thing I was courious about and that is the Python again. THe one I located is for sale at 1300.00 and it's blued 6" and they say is in perfect shape. We all know what "perfect shape" can be when you really go look at things.

1300.00 is out of my price range for sure but lets just suppose it is as they say. Does 1300.00 seem crazy high for a Python?

 

[Nomad.2nd]

And then there's my way. I "bobbed" my hammers and cut away the part of the hammer that the lock engages. Then I took it a step further and removed anything that had anything to do with the lock.
As for the MEM parts, have never had one fail in any gun!!!!!

It's not that they might fail (Although it is slightly more possible)

It's that they do not withstand being 'worked on' as well.

Some people say different, but my Godchildren's grandfather is David Clements of Clements Custom guns.

And HE says it's so.

I'll take his word on it, and I'd guess there are very few who would care to argue with him!

 

[scooterj]

Did you plug the hole? There was a guy on the S&W Forum selling "plug kits", IIRC.

Why whittle on the hammer if you were going to gut the mechanism anyway?

.

I'll post pics of my hammer this evening. And yes there is a reason and no plug in the hole.

 

[Hardballing]

It seems like the best thing to do is going to be just take my time and find a good pre lock 686. There is one other thing I was courious about and that is the Python again. THe one I located is for sale at 1300.00 and it's blued 6" and they say is in perfect shape. We all know what "perfect shape" can be when you really go look at things.

1300.00 is out of my price range for sure but lets just suppose it is as they say. Does 1300.00 seem crazy high for a Python?

While not "crazy" high it does seem a tad so imo. Had a nickel one go in the classifieds here within the last two months for around $800 IIRC. That would be an exception (and one I was too slow to grab ) however.

Figure $1000 and up, stainless seems to bring a premium, and the original "high polish" stainless (for these, I'd insist on seeing the original box/paperwork/end label, as it's just too easy to polish out brushed stainless to high polish) will pay your cable bill for a year (and allow you to watch LOTS of On Demand porno to boot ). Fact is, you can find them for $1199-1400 ALL day long, in the barrel of your choice.

Hope this helps.

 

[smith625]

Points well taken...

 

[scooterj]

Nope, had to work late. Will be up shortly.

 

[scooterj]

All these hammers are supposedly MEM parts. Will let you know when one of them fails.


First is the 625, all lock parts removed

Second is the 627, "flag" removed and hammer bobbed and lightened (pic not very good)

Lastly is the pre-lock 610 . This hammer is the lightest of the 3.

 

[scooterj]

So you're whacking the spurs to lighten the part to decrease lock time? If so, I got it.

I was thinking you were whittling on the SIDE of the hammer.

Did you have to increase mainspring tension to get reliable ignition?

And as for leaving the hole in the frame, these are comp guns; i.e., no problem.

.

Yes, lighter faster hammer.
Actually can decrease mainspring tension. It takes less energy to get the lighter hammer moving and it, IMO, has given me more reliable ignition.

The rest of the lock in the 627 will be removed before it's next outing.

 

[dwr461]

Mike Carmony has my 610 hammer whittled down to near nothing. But Scooter went a little further even than that. Most revolver competitors are using extremely abbreviated hammers, very light mainsprings, etc. The last survey I saw the results had the competitors at nationals using 100% federal small pistol primers. Also I have an extra long firing pin added to help.

Dave

 

[dwr461]

Scooter I know we talked about this very subject just the other day. Here's a image or two of the Carmony bobbed hammer.

 

[Tx_oil]

All these hammers are supposedly MEM parts. Will let you know when one of them fails.


First is the 625, all lock parts removed

Second is the 627, "flag" removed and hammer bobbed and lightened (pic not very good)

Lastly is the pre-lock 610 . This hammer is the lightest of the 3.

Great post, however what you meant was MIM (Metal Injection Molding)...MEM is a completely different topic on this forum..lol

 

[scooterj]

Great post, however what you meant was MIM (Metal Injection Molding)...MEM is a completely different topic on this forum..lol

You are correct.

 

[scooterj]

Scooter I know we talked about this very subject just the other day. Here's a image or two of the Carmony bobbed hammer.

Put your Carmonized hammer on your reloading scale and let me know what it weighs in grains.

 

[dwr461]

263.0 grains